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Thread: Removing Blower Motor -2003 Town & Country

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Smile Thorough diagnostic of 2005 T&C Blower motor and Resistor

    Did you check the resistor module upstream? It may be burnt out.
    Here's an excellent tread to troubleshoot the non-functioning blower/ resistor problem:

    After checking the usual fuses and relays, it narrows down to:

    1. The a/c control head (least likely cause)
    2. The blower motor (likely cause)
    3. The blower motor resistor (most likely cause)

    Easy to diagnosis, a PITA to pull that blower motor out.

    Good Luck everyone!!! Not too hard of a project for the DIY'ers.

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  3. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010

    On my 2001 Chrysler T&C Ltd AWD, you can access that front, top mounted, screw from the top right speaker hole. I had to remove the pillar trim on both sides and then I could remove the speaker/defroster dash panel. Unscrew and remove the speaker. Then we used 1/4" drive flexible (spring) extensions with a couple of solid extensions with a deep 8MM socket. After digging out most of the insulation from around the top mounted front screw, one of us held the socket on the screw head while the other operated the ratchet. We have no plans to replace the screw. The other four should hold the Recirc Panel Door as it is very light. One other thing, the Recirc Door Panel can be punched out of the lower housing, it just snaps in. But be very careful as the three sided Recirc mount on the bottom of the lower panel is fragile.

  4. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    McDonough, GA
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    I just recently replaced the blower motor in my '01 T&C with ATC. Tried everything I could think of for that last bolt against the firewall. Wasn't about to disassemble the upper dash to get at it though. As I had read on a post here, after a longer period of time than I would want to admit to in my attempts to get to the bolt, I took the frustrated DIYer's attitude and twisted and pulled unitl the rear ear portion broke off. Once I popped the recirculation door out of the lower housing, I found that a 1X3 section of the housing had broken off. Knowing that this was not an air-tight housing, it didn't worry me the least bit. Once the housing is re-installed, the broken piece fits the opening and is against the firewall so no one sees it and it has zero affect on operation. The hardest part of installing the new motor was getting the recirculation door to fit into the pivot point above the motor so that it moved smoothly and freely once the housing is re-fastened.

    Side notes: Read on here about the cabin filter and replaced it as well. Cheap insurance to remove the possibility of a clogged filter from the equation. As for the motor, all the local parts stores had it (with the blower wheel) in stock for $100. Found it online and got it from RockAuto for $60 including shipping. Same part number but $40 cheaper.
    '01 T&C LXi -200k miles
    '84 Celica - 200K+
    '95 Accord - 135K

  5. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Just picked up my blower motor at the local salvage yard for ~$40 including lifetime warranty. $30 w/o warranty. Going out of town tomorrow with this vehicle. Hopefully it comes out and goes in well tonight.....

  6. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012

    Accessing difficult bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by Beta View Post
    Did you ever figure out how to get to this bolt/screw? I'm having the same problem.
    use an 1/8" drive w/ about a 6" extension and a knuckle between the socket and extension. Locate the handle of your socket drive at the lower portion of the housing, front-center, the shaft up toward the bolt area, and the socket angled upward to the bolt. It works perfectly for removing and replacing that bolt.

    Tearing the insulation seems to be a given, not a big deal.

  7. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    SE Wisconsin

    I replaced my blower fan tonight and as most others have found, the job was a piece of cake... well OK, EXCEPT FOR ONE FRIGGEN SCREW!!!

    I did happen to view this video on YouTube that I thought was well worth the time. Two tips that he gave concerning the recirculation door I thought were extremely helpful and something that I would have been clueless about if I hadn't seen the video: Use a tool from the bottom to remove the recirculation door from the lower fan cover; Position the recirculation door toward the right side before reattaching the actuator to the fan assembly.

    Another tip you might find useful anytime you reattach something back to a plastic boss, Place the screw into the hole and then slowly turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the screw "jumps" or "dips". Once this happens you can then proceed to turn the screw clockwise and it will now re-thread itself into the same threads that already exist in the plastic without having to cut a new thread. This can be critical if you are constantly removing a screw out of an assembly and you don't want to eventually strip out the hole...

    2015 Chrysler T&C Touring L - 3.6L V6 VVT - Mocha Java Pearl Coat
    2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT - 3.8L V6 - Linen Gold Metallic Pearl Coat - Still going... >170,800 miles
    2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE - 3.3L V6 SMPI - Shale Green Metallic Clear Coat R.I.P. - 99184 miles
    1996 Dodge Grand Caravan SE - 3.3L V6 MPI - Medium Blue - Sold 63346 miles

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