2005 blower motor removal



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Thread: 2005 blower motor removal

  1. #1
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    2005 blower motor removal

    Does anyone know the procedure for removing the blower motor on a 2005? I know this is gross but my daughter-in-law was transporting a mouse (for a pet snake) and the critter got loose, into the blower and died. Ugh! My mechanic told me it would cost $700.00 because he would have to discharge the ac to remove the blower. Tell me it ain't so!

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  3. #2
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    I would go to dealer claiming foul smell from heat.
    It is under warranty.

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    I've never heard of having to discharge the A/C system to replace a blower fan. Maybe someone on here can confirm though.
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    Yea, that would be odd. Most come out from the inside, although I have seen a few that com out through the front of the firewall, although I have not seen one that requires discharging the A/C.
    Just a note: If you have five dollars and Chuck Norris has five dollars, Chuck Norris has more than you.

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    This is an excerpt from the '04 FSM. I do not see a reference to purging the air conditioning system.

    __________________________________________________ _______

    BLOWER MOTOR REMOVAL
    WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
    DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM
    CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
    SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
    INJURY.
    NOTE: The blower motor is located on the passenger side of the vehicle under the instrument panel. The blower motor can be removed from the vehicle without having to remove the HVAC housing.
    (1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    (2) Remove the passenger side door sill plate and cowl panel.
    (3) Pull back the carpet to access the front lower air intake screw.
    (4) Remove the recirculation door actuator (Refer to instructions shown below).
    (5) Disconnect the recirculation door actuator wire harness lead from the routing clip on the lower air inlet housing and position the wire harness aside.
    (6) Disconnect the blower motor pigtail harness connector from the blower motor resistor block or power module, depending how vehicle is equipped.
    (7) Remove the one screw (from the top) that secures the lower air inlet housing to the upper air inlet housing (Fig. 8).
    (8) Remove the four screws (from the bottom) that secure the lower air inlet housing to the lower HVAC housing and upper air inlet housing.
    (9) Push the rubber grommet on the blower motor pigtail through the hole in the lower air inlet housing (Fig. 9).
    (10) Feed the blower motor pigtail and electrical connector through the grommet hole in the lower air inlet housing.
    (11) Relocate the recirculation air door as necessary to access and remove the three screws that secure the blower motor to the lower half of the HVAC housing.
    (12) Gently flex the recirculation air door far enough to remove the blower motor and blower wheel from the housing.
    (13) Remove the blower motor from the housing. Note the position of the blower motor mounting tabs (Fig. 10).


    24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR - REMOVAL
    (1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negativecable.
    (2) Pull the carpet on the passenger side front floor away from the dash panel far enough to access the recirculation door actuator.
    (3) Disconnect the HVAC wire harness connector from the recirculation door actuator (Fig. 22).
    (4) Remove the two screws that secure the recirculation door actuator to the air inlet housing.
    (5) Remove the recirculation door actuator from the air inlet housing.
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  7. #6
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    removal of rearmost screw holding fan housing on

    I was VERY glad to see that AMD was kind enough to have posted these instructions and once I got my replacement fan, I got down to it. But as Murphy says, everything is harder than it looks.

    Easily got to step 8, where it says to remove the four screws from the bottom. Front three are easy, but the fourth is up behind the housing in back and where I can just feel it, but not see it. The pading, which was under the carpet, pushes out right against the housing there and makes for no angle where I can get a wrench on the scre head. Nor can I get the padding out because it is either glued or pinned above this point.

    Anyone got any tips? I'm ready to break the housing back there at this point.
    Andy
    2001 T+C LX - 95K miles, 5th Chrysler minivan since 1987.
    Two Volvo 740s - combined over 450K miles

  8. #7
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    Hi. I had the exact same problem and was only able to remove the back screw after pulling the carpet back and the foam out. Yes, it was glued, but it pulled back in once piece and was easy to put back once the blower motor was reinstalled. It gives you just a little bit more room to work with. I don't know how else you could possibly do it. I also had a flexible tool so that seemed to help a bit as well. Good Luck to you!

  9. #8
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    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

    Completed blower job. Tips and thanks.

    Thanks WonderWoman. I think my case turned out to be a little different from yours, but you encouraged me that the pad really was the issue so I persevered and got it done. I suppose every van is different as far as tolerences go and my blower housing is TIGHT against that pad. The pad is literally pinned between the blower housing and the firewall. (No, there is no evidence of this van ever having been crashed.) So I had to cut the paddingto that point and then use a carpet hook to pick out some more right at the point where that back screw sits. Then, although I still had to be a contortionist, it was pretty straightforward.

    I would modify the instructions AMD posted from the '04 FSM (maybe my 01 is slightly different than 04) as follows:

    (3) Pull back the carpet to access the front lower air intake screw.
    change to
    (3) Pull back the carpet to access the front lower air intake screws. Also, if necessary, pull back padding to allow access to the rear lower air intake screw.

    Also, I would add this tip for replacing the lower air inlet housing since I had a hard time getting the recirculator door lined up properly so its pivot was in the central hole in the lower housing. The tip is to put a thin screwdriver, or similar, through the hole and into the pivot before you try to put the lower cover all the way up into place. This keeps the door from being pushed out of alignment and the pivot and hole come right together as you move to cover up along the screwdriver shaft.

    Thanks again for your help and encouragement!
    Andy
    2001 T+C LX - 95K miles, 5th Chrysler minivan since 1987.
    Two Volvo 740s - combined over 450K miles

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  11. #9
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    After blowing two resisters within two months i decided to replaced the blower motor, After reading all the posts here. Great site ,Great bunch of contributers. Having the support of this site gave me the confidence to tackle this job myself. Replacing the blower motor is pretty straight forward except for that 1 screw close to the fire wall. The procedures listed above are correct. The only thing i did different was to replace the screw at the fire wall with a screw with a bit more of a head on it. Made it easier to put back in and if i ever have to take it out again it will be easier to get a hold of next time. Thanks to everbody for there helpfull contributions.

  12. #10
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    Additional info and pics

    I replaced the blower motor in my Dodge Caravan 2001 3.3 L Sport, and the information in this post was very helpful.

    I have added some pictures and a slightly different routine for removing the motor. I didn't have to disconnect the battery, although you can do so if you think you need to. Total time for me to change the motor took about 2 hours, but if you follow this routine, you should be able to do it much more quickly.

    You will need an 8 mm x 1/4" socket and probably an 8 mm wrench. I used a 1/4" socket set with 2 extensions and a universal joint (see pic below) to get to the notorious "back" screw. You might have something else that will work (the screw cannot be seen easily, so don't assume that you will be able to get an eye on it -- I had to feel my way). I had to remove some of the firewall padding to get enough room to work on the screw. If you have small hands and are left-handed, removing the back screw will be easy. If you are right-handed or have big hands, not so much.


    To remove blower motor:

    1. Remove the glove compartment door. Open the door and squeeze the side bumpers in so the door will hang down. Twist the hinges to remove the door (see pic below).

    2. Unplug the 2 wire blower motor cable (see pic below) from the jack.

    3. If you have a new motor, now is the time to test it. Make sure the console blower switch is off, and then plug the new motor into the jack. Hold the blower clear from any danger and turn on the blower switch. Unplug the motor and continue.

    4. Look at the picture showing the placement of the screws (screws are numbered 1 - 7, in order of removal).

    5. Remove screws #1 and #2 (which hold the recirculation door actuator in place), unclip the actuator cable from 2 wire clips, and set the assembly to the side. You do not need to disconnect the actuator cable.

    6. See the detail pic for screw #3. It is next to the firewall. If you cannot get your fingers or a socket on the screw, cut some of the padding to get more space. Remove the screw.

    7. Remove screws #4 - #7 (which hold the lower air inlet housing or the blower motor housing). You may need to use a wrench for screw #7 (too tight for a socket).

    8. Push the rubber grommet into the housing (this frees the motor harness cable from interfering with the housing removal).

    9. The recirculation door (inside the housing, at the back) may need to be pushed loose from the bottom of the housing. The door has a splined cam that inserts into the (now removed) actuator, and the cam juts thru the bottom of the housing -- push up on the cam if the door seems to be stuck in the housing. After you get the door free, the door needs to stay where it is, but the housing needs to be removed. Twist or squeeze the housing as necessary to remove it from the vehicle.

    10. Locate and remove the three 8 mm screws holding the motor (move the door as necessary). Twist the motor (and blower cage) as necessary to remove it from the vehicle.


    To reinstall blower motor:

    1. Twist the motor and position it as necessary to get it near the three screw holes in the top housing. The motor must be aligned so that the harness and grommet are facing the front. When you have the alignment, reinstall the three 8 mm screws to secure the motor.

    2. Pull the harness thru the housing grommet hole, and insert the grommet.

    3. Align the recirculation door cam with the bottom hole in the lower housing. Use a pencil, screwdriver, or socket spinner to align the cam and the hole, and push the door cam thru the hole (with your fingers inside the housing holding the door while pushing up on the housing). Align the housing with the screw locations. You should be able to feel the bottom of the cam at the bottom of the housing hole before you reattach the lower housing.

    4. Check the alignment of the lower housing. If the housing does not fit snugly to the upper housing, realign. There should not be air gaps at the screw locations -- do not reinstall any screws until the alignment is snug with no gaps at screw locations.

    5. Reinstall screws #5 and #6. Do not install the remainder of the screws yet.

    7. Make sure the console blower switch is off. Plug in the motor harness and turn the blower switch on. If you hear any obstruction in the motor's fan cage, remove the housing and recheck the alignment. Turn off the blower switch and continue.

    8. Reinstall the actuator with screws #1 and #2. Reinstall the actuator wires into the clips. (Note: The actuator will self-align the recirculator door after the first several on-off cycles, so you don't need to worry about door alignment).

    9. Reinstall the remainder of the housing screws except for #3.

    10. Test the console switch again and cycle thru recirculate a few times. You can watch the door move by looking in the cage at the bottom of the housing. With recirculate on, the door will move to the far left. When off, it will move to the far right.

    11. When you are satisfied with the operation, you can decide whether or not to reinstall screw #3 (I didn't).



    Tool.jpg

    Remove door.jpg

    Unplug.jpg

    Locations.jpg

    Detail pic.jpg

  13. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to RonInVA For This Useful Post:

    01GCSE (02-14-2013), blupupher (10-15-2012), Caravan_serai (09-20-2014), Joel_B (09-29-2014)

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