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Rear heater down pipe replacement, double ARRRRGH!

14K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  grik24 
#1 ·
I tried replacing the rear heater pipes today, does anyone know to start from the top or bottom. I tried putting them in as a set from top and bottom. Failed from both directions. I remember letsgododge from my other thread said they were in two seperate pieces, but the clamps are kind of permanent looking and I do not want to destroy threm. It almost looks like you would have to remove the intake dome to free up alot of space or remove the catylitic converter to get sufficent space to manouver the new pipes into position. I hate like heck to bring it to the stealer to get it done. :( :( :( This sucks big time. Some info would be helpful. Thanks.
Casey.
 
#2 ·
So fun!

I am tackling the same repair on my 98 T&C, and am concerned with the same issue you are having trouble with.

Did you remove the wiper assembly? I don't know if it would help, but it looks like a good thing to do on mine.

I too was looking forward to a two-piece unit, but no such luck.

I am curious how you solve this issue, please post your solution!

-James
 
#3 ·
No solution yet. That is why I posted. Hopefully a fellow member will reply with some helpful information soon. If I cannot repair it tomorrow, I will have to take it to the dealer on Monday and get screwed for major $$$$$$. Anyone, anyone?
Thanks to all that respond anyway, I do enjoy reading all responses.
KC.
 
#4 ·
ESADORNED said:
I hate like heck to bring it to the stealer to get it done. :( :( :(
There is another alternative--bring it to a trusted independent garage. It doesn't have to be a dealer who replaces it. Pay them to scrape their knuckles. :)
 
#6 ·
ESADORNED said:
No solution yet. That is why I posted. Hopefully a fellow member will reply with some helpful information soon. If I cannot repair it tomorrow, I will have to take it to the dealer on Monday and get screwed for major $$$$$$. Anyone, anyone?
Thanks to all that respond anyway, I do enjoy reading all responses.
KC.
For what it's worth ....... the following is taken from the '01 FSM .....
- - - - -
REMOVAL - REAR HEATER LINES
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Pinch off rubber heater line hose.
3. Disconnect quick connect fitting at C-pillar.
4. Loosen one screw and remove the other screw at each of the three brackets holding
... the front of the line to the underbody.
5. Lower rear of line and drain coolant into suitable container.
6. Loosen hose clamps at front of line and remove line from vehicle.

INSTALLATION - REAR HEATER LINES
1. Install line into underbody straps.
2. Install line into front hose and install hose clalmp.
3. Connect quick fitting at rear of line.
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Fill cooling system

STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM FILLING
Remove radiator pressure cap and fill system, using 50/50 mix of Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula and distilled water.
Continue filling system until full. Be careful not to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
Fill coolant recovery/reserve container to at least the MAX mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessare to add coolant to the recovery/reserve container after three or four warm up/cool down cycles to maintain coolant level between the MAX and MIN mark. This will allow trapped air to be removed from the system.
- - - - - -
I'm sure it is not quite as simple as they make it sound ...
I do hope this is of some help ......
-- willperk
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. Sorry flybyy, but no digicam available so I can not post pic's. Willperk, that sounds like the lines running from the ones I described to the rear heater hoses unfortunately. These lines start behind the intake, against the bulkhead, attaching to the front interior heater lines, go across to the passengers side of the bulkhead, then down to the underside of the body, running parallel to the rear a/c lines and exhaust pipe. There are only two clamps on this setup, and it is a real wrestling match to get them in without bending or permanently disfiguring their original shape and form. Thanks again for the help though, it is very much appreciated.
KC.
 
#8 ·
Dropped ot off at the dealer this morning and they change it by removing the cowling above the engine that also houses all the windshield wiper arms, motor etc. Approx 4 hrs labour to remove it all and reassemble afterwards. Major $$$ in labour, but for me it will be all original for my peace of mind.
KC.
 
#9 ·
It is done being repaired (by the stealer, no time to find a good independant), I will pick it up after work today and let you know how good a job they did tomorrow. I need a night of offloading some tears before I can respond without harm or mailce to the fine people that repaired it for me.
KC.
 
#11 ·
I spoke too soon. Just getting the old one out is a pain! I could deform it, but I want to preserve its shape to see how to put the new one in. I am considering taking the plenum out to make it happen.

Anybody with experience in removing the plenum? If so, please see my thread in the Gen 3 forums. Thanks!
 
#12 ·
FYI -

I just finished replacing the rear heater pipes on my 2001 TC 3.3. I removed the intake manifold cover and the various tubes on top of the manifold. Removed the air cleaner cover, rubber duct, and throttle body (unbolted, set aside). Removed the PS hose (messy!) Unplugged a spark plug wire and set it aside. Down below, I undid a couple of clamps on the PS cooler line.

Then I had to pry the new clamps apart. The bottom one had to be bent around anyway - wouldn't work as supplied. One pipe at a time, I was able to thread them through the opening.

The new pipe assembly cost me $150 at the dealer - I was very relieved that it is an improved design. I won't get into the grief surrounding the failure :(

Best regards
 
#13 ·
I cut mine and ran approx 12" of rubber right along the firewall. This allowed me to replace the upper and then the lower. Attach the rubber lines to the upper and it will feed right down. It took about an hour and broke my heart to cut the nice new Al lines but it worked great.
 
#17 ·
Because the old ones are steel and I don't like to do a job twice. With my luck the part 3" up would do the same thing in 6 months.
 
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