Front hub/wheel bearing



ChryslerMiniVan.net is the premier Chrysler Minivan Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Front hub/wheel bearing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    Front hub/wheel bearing

    Hi all,
    We have a 2008 Town & Country Touring and one of the front hubs/wheel bearings is noisy, so I ordered two new ones to replace both hubs. Does anybody know the procedure of replacing them and the torque specifications? I've replaced many wheel bearings before on other cars, but never on this model. Any help is appreciated! :-)

    Thanks!

    -Ken-

  2. Remove Advertisements
    Chrysler Minivan Forums
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    SE PA
    Posts
    217
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 61 Times in 41 Posts


    Check this thread, may be under a recall for you.

    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ont+hub+recall
    2010 VW Routan SEL
    4.0L 6 Speed

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to RoutanSEL For This Useful Post:

    gsmagnum (03-02-2012)

  5. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    We have to T/Cs, one made in August 2007 and one in Februarty 2008. I called Chrysler and they said neither one was covered by the recall for bearings, and it seemed to be based on the state they were sold in. Weird.

  6. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Gurnee,IL
    Posts
    36
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts


    I have an 08 and the right side went out. I replaced it myself, bout a 45 min job. Torque specs on axle net was 118ft/lbs. The blots that hold the actual bearing to the hub I used thread locker and just made sure they were tight. Its a very easy job, no press is needed.

    I received a letter from Chrysler they were extending the warranty on the bearings to 5 years or 90000 miles. I have to send in a form to get my money back on the one I did myself.

  7. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Auburn Hills, MI
    Posts
    474
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    75
    Thanked 309 Times in 164 Posts


    2008 Town & Country / HUB AND BEARING / Installation:

    1. Make sure isolation washer is located on halfshaft stub shaft. Washer is bi-directional, and can be installed in either direction.
    2. Install hub and bearing onto halfshaft stub shaft and into knuckle until squarely seated on face of knuckle. Make sure wheel speed sensor is positioned toward rear of vehicle.
    3. Install four hub and bearing mounting bolts from rear of knuckle. Progressively and equally tighten all four mounting bolts using a crisscross pattern. Tighten mounting bolts to 65 Nm (45 ft. lbs.).
    4. Attach wheel speed sensor routing bracket to knuckle. Install and tighten screw to 13 Nm (115 in. lbs.).
    5. Attach wheel speed sensor routing bracket to mounting flange on strut assembly. Install and tighten screw to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
    6. Clip wheel speed sensor connector and routing clip to bracket on frame rail.
    7. Connect vehicle wiring harness to wheel speed sensor connector.
    8. Install brake shield on knuckle. Install and tighten three mounting screws to 8 Nm (71 in. lbs.).
    9. Install brake rotor, then install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly.
    10. Verify that wheel speed sensor is routed properly, not allowing cable to come in contact with moving parts.
    NOTE: Always install a new hub nut. The original hub nut is one-time use only and should be discarded when removed.
    11. Install hub nut on end of halfshaft stub shaft. With aid of a helper applying brakes to keep front hub from turning, tighten hub nut to 160 Nm (118 ft. lbs.).
    12. Install tire and wheel assembly. Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.).
    13. Lower vehicle.
    14. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
    15. Check and adjust brake fluid level as necessary.

  8. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    26
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts


    I have a 2009 Chrysler extended the warranty on the wheel bearings to 5 years.
    2009 Grand Caravan-Mygig radio-DVD-Parkview

  9. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Fishersville, Va.
    Posts
    29
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts


    About a week ago I started to notice a slight humming comming from the left front wheel area. I have a 2008 GC, and received my letter from Chrysler about the hub/bearing back in Sept 2011. Took the GC to deaaler yesterday. They took it for a quick road test, put it on a lift, and sure enough, bad bearing. They didn't have the hubs on hand, but ordered em, due in today, and going back tomorrow for the install. Told me about 1 1/2 hours to do both. They also ordered a modual for another recall that I wasen't aware of and will take care of that as well.
    Great service from Augusta Dodge/Chrysler in Staunton, Va.
    Grumpaw

  10. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Troy, MI
    Posts
    4
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    Bearings out at 100,000 miles

    I started hearing the humming at 50+ mph on my 2008 Caravan, took it in the dealer and they replaced both front bearings. It started making noise at about 100,000 miles.

    I have the lifetime maintenance agreement, so I only had to pay a $100 deductible.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    224
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 43 Times in 37 Posts


    Getting the old hub nut off can be a royal PITA (unless you have an impact wrench). If you don't, get a good long breaker bar (note: this is not the same thing as a cheater bar - always use the right tool for the job) and put your spare tire on. The spare is open in the center and will allow you to use the weight of the vehicle to your advantage when remove the hub nut.

    While you're doing the job, since you have to take the brakes apart to get to the hub, might also be time to think about replacing some old pads?

    Also, make sure you clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle before putting the new hub in place. it's a tight fit, and you don't want any dirt or rust getting in the way. A light coating of anti-sieze on ONLY the mating surface is not a terrible idea - it will make removal of this hub (should the need arise) that much less of an issue.

    If your axle is stuck in the hub (which it probably will be), TAP it with a hammer until you see it just barely start to move. Once you see it even make the slightest twitch, don't use anything more than a rubber mallet to push it the rest of the way out of the hub.*

    *It won't actually go all the way out of the hub, just far enough back that it's clearly been released. Don't force the CV joint or you'll be replacing the half shaft as well.

    It's not specific to this vehicle, but it is the same general procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXW90xwZt5Q. I used this to change the wheel hub on my sister's car (same basic idea, just a different bolt pattern and torque specs plus no wheel speed sensor since it doesn't have ABS) and the job was surprisingly easy. Follow the techniques here, and use the specs from Chrysler Cares and you should be good to go.
    -------------------------------------
    2010 Town and Country Touring
    3.8L, 6-Speed
    60k and counting...

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to bfurth For This Useful Post:

    georgef (09-19-2014)

  13. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    403
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    83
    Thanked 194 Times in 128 Posts


    Quote Originally Posted by bfurth View Post
    ...and put your spare tire on. The spare is open in the center and will allow you to use the weight of the vehicle to your advantage when remove the hub nut...
    Rather than dealing with the spare, you can remove the center cap from the alloy wheel. You'll need to remove the wheel first so you can push the cap out from the inside. After you put the wheel back on the van you'll be able to access the nut through the cap hole.

    George
    2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT (3.8)
    2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport (3.3) 238,000+ miles
    Previous Chrysler Vehicles:
    1995 Dodge Caravan (3.0)
    1993 Dodge Caravan (3.0)
    1986 Chrysler Lebaron GTS (2.2)
    1963 Plymouth Valiant (170ci)

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to georgef For This Useful Post:

    bfurth (09-20-2014)

+ Reply to Thread

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts