Getting the old hub nut off can be a royal PITA (unless you have an impact wrench). If you don't, get a good long breaker bar (note: this is not the same thing as a cheater bar - always use the right tool for the job) and put your spare tire on. The spare is open in the center and will allow you to use the weight of the vehicle to your advantage when remove the hub nut.
While you're doing the job, since you have to take the brakes apart to get to the hub, might also be time to think about replacing some old pads?
Also, make sure you clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle before putting the new hub in place. it's a tight fit, and you don't want any dirt or rust getting in the way. A light coating of anti-sieze on ONLY the mating surface is not a terrible idea - it will make removal of this hub (should the need arise) that much less of an issue.
If your axle is stuck in the hub (which it probably will be), TAP it with a hammer until you see it just barely start to move. Once you see it even make the slightest twitch, don't use anything more than a rubber mallet to push it the rest of the way out of the hub.*
*It won't actually go all the way out of the hub, just far enough back that it's clearly been released. Don't force the CV joint or you'll be replacing the half shaft as well.
It's not specific to this vehicle, but it is the same general procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXW90xwZt5Q. I used this to change the wheel hub on my sister's car (same basic idea, just a different bolt pattern and torque specs plus no wheel speed sensor since it doesn't have ABS) and the job was surprisingly easy. Follow the techniques here, and use the specs from Chrysler Cares and you should be good to go.
2010 Town and Country Touring, 3.8L, 6-Speed, 96k and counting...
2015 Journey SE - 3,200 in 5 months - I need to drive more!