98 T&C 3.8 engine removal from the top?



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Thread: 98 T&C 3.8 engine removal from the top?

  1. #1
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    98 T&C 3.8 engine removal from the top?

    Greetings,

    I've read a few posts that say a 3.8 can be removed from the top. Will someone that has actually done this please confirm this. Can the rear head be removed while the motor is still in the van.

    Thanks much!

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    I've had my 97 3.8 apart as far as the valve covers, and I can say that YES, you can remove the rear head while the engine is in the van. You will need to remove the wiper plenum to do this.

    Pics showing how much room you get with the wiper plenum removed:






    Here's the rear head - looks like plenty of room to get it out of there:
    '11 Grand Caravan Crew 3.6 46k
    '11 Chevy Malibu 1LT 2.4 47k
    http://www.fuelly.com/driver/smgussey/
    2011+ tow package info: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/23413

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    Thumbs up flyingeno

    Thanks for the info. I am still trying to diagnose a loud rattle coming from the motor, so I am thinking about my options while I try and pin down the problem.

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    Have you tried running it with the serpentine belt? That would rule out the accessories such as alternator, power steering, idlers, etc.

    How many miles on it? I know some of the 3.3 had problems with the rocker shafts or pedestals breaking, but haven't heard of that on the 3.8...
    '11 Grand Caravan Crew 3.6 46k
    '11 Chevy Malibu 1LT 2.4 47k
    http://www.fuelly.com/driver/smgussey/
    2011+ tow package info: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/23413

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingeno View Post
    Greetings,

    I've read a few posts that say a 3.8 can be removed from the top. Will someone that has actually done this please confirm this. Can the rear head be removed while the motor is still in the van.

    Thanks much!
    Yes, the rear head can be removed with the engine still in the van, the following is a shot of the 3.8 block in our 1998 DGC Sport, sans heads, but with the rear exhaust manifold still in place.


    DSCF1556 by ship0, on Flickr
    Sold: 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 (Final odo: 178,000 miles)
    Sold: 1998 Chrysler T&C LXi 3.8 (Final odo: 190,000 miles)
    Sold: 2003 DGC ES 3.8 (Final odo: 172,000 miles)
    1998 Audi A4 Quattro (5-Speed manual)
    2001 Honda Accord EX V6 (4-Speed automatic)
    2009 Mazda3 i Touring (5-Speed manual)
    2012 VW GTI (6-Speed manual)

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    I did remove the serpentine belt. The noise is still there. It is like a constant pinging sound. I checked the compression in the front cylinders. They were all even at about 155. I removed the fuel injector modules on each of the front cylinders as well and the noise continued. I still have to try and get at the rear cylinders. I was going to open the inspection plate on the bell housing to look for damage as well. The engine has 131,000 on it. It gets regular oil and filter changes. We don't drive it very hard. The rest of the car is in great shape. Hopefully I can figure it out.

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    No loss of power? The fuel injector plugs for the front cylinders are BEHIND the intake plenum, so you might have unplugged the rear cylinders. Anyway, no loss of power and no misfire/check engine light, and I would suspect a cracked/broken flexplate. It's kind of a common problem on our vans. I'd pull off the inspection plate and check that out. No way to see the actual crack unless you actually remove the flex plate, though.
    DAN(husband of member STEPHANIE)

    2000 Chrysler Town & Country Limited - Dark Charcoal Metallic with chrome trim, taupe leather interior, loaded. In need of rust repair on rockers and liftgate. Now enjoying the new family mommy-mobile!

    Knowledge can never be wisdom without experience.
    "Your experience is a commodity."
    "Opportunity is not a lengthy visitor."
    DRIVE = LOVE

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    I've got some good advise from this blog. I have to finish up some kitchen wiring, then I'll get down to fixing the van. I'll post the results.

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