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Brake Rotors - should one replace or resurface?

24K views 32 replies 19 participants last post by  RoutanSEL 
#1 ·
I can't recall reading about this previously so was anxious to hear comments/opinions from the various experts (including the most knowledgeable Chrysler service advisor). In my particular case it is academic as I have recently had both the front & rear rotors resurfaced however am now wondering if I did the correct thing.

So when having the dealer install new disc pads (both front & rear) they advised that the rotors should be resurfaced (in earlier days I believe this was called turning or shaving the rotors). Both sets of rotors were within specs and thus could be resurfaced. Cost (in Canadian dollars) to resurface fronts was $160 and resurface rears was also $160. However now that they have been resurfaced they cannot be resurfaced again.

Two basic questions -- 1. Which is the safest route to go - resurface or install new OEM rotors? 2. Approximately which is the most economical (parts & dealer installation included)?
 
#3 ·
As a general rule I replace instead of resurface. Why?
  1. The price of new rotors these days is relatively inexpensive.
  2. Modern rotor design is typically quite thin and given that the thermal mass of the rotor is already borderline not enough (especially for our vans), and given that resurfacing (or cutting or turning or shaving, same things) removes even more metal from the swept area (thus further reducing the thermal mass), I always recommend new rotors.
  3. I typically avoid OEM rotors as they're typically very expensive; if you shop around you should be able to find rotors which either meet the OEM spec for considerably less money, or rotors of superior metal composition (thinking brands like Brembo) for roughly the same money as the OEM units.
 
#4 ·
I haven't "resurfaced" a brake rotor (or drum) in over 25years. Always replace with the best new I can find.

In addition to Shipo's list, resurfacing doesn't resolve (possible) micro-fracturing within the rotor, and/or "hard spots" due to non-uniform heat stress and/or material imperfections in the rotor.

But hey, it's only your life...

-Jim
 
#5 ·
I always replace if they are scored. If not, I sand with 80 grit sand paper and throw some new pads on. Paying to resurface rotors doesn't make sense, and it reduces the heat capacity of the rotors.
 
#6 ·
I worked in a shop for about 5 years in the past, and have to disagree with some of the info on here.
Resurfacing a rotor does not diminish its performance at all in any way, in fact, its better to resurface your rotors rather then buy new ones, because anytime you get new rotors, theres a chance your going to get a bad batch. Lots of over seas rotors=lots of really low standards. With your oem ones, at least you know they will work like they were when new. By shaving the rotor, you are removing only mm's from the disc, nothing to worry about.
Im not sure if 160 is a fare rate however, since two new rotors shouldn't cost much more then that.
 
#7 ·
Sorry, have to disagree; thermal mass is thermal mass, and as the rotor mass for these vans is already borderline insufficient, any loss is significant. It seems your argument presumes that when a rotor is resurfaced, it is at or near its maximum thickness, and that typically is far from the truth. The difference between the design thickness when the rotor is new and the minimum thickness (stamped or cast into the rotor) is not all that great, and when you combine the loss of thickness from the wear associated with normal braking with the extra loss of the resurfacing, the reduction of thermal mass is quite significant.

Said another way, by the time a rotor has been used for say 40,000 miles (the average lifespan of the rotors on our three vans) it is already measurably thinner and has less mass than when new; reduce its weight and thickness further by resurfacing, and most rotors these days will be approaching the minimum thickness.
 
#8 ·
Resurface once is fine, if the price is right. That resurfacing (Post #1) was much too expensive.

I usually just replace mine, with white box rotors, because it's more convenient and the price is about the same (new versus resurface).
 
#9 ·
I suppose that might well be true when one lives in the frozen north when the number of really warm days of the year are few and far between, but I've warped too many rotors (especially on our vans) on hot days, and that's without even driving all that aggressively.

Thinking back, the only time I've resurfaced a rotor since the mid 1970s was when I switched my 530i from the factory brake pads to a set of low dust PBR/Axxis pads after about 8,000 miles; there was was just a bit of asymmetry in the geometry of the swept surfaces so I had them resurfaced to bring them back to parallel.
 
#10 ·
It's fairly common here for the Dealerships to resurface the OE rotors "once". It's wise to clean the rust etc. out of the air spaces (vents) for the front rotors, rears are solid.

I know of one shop that does auto body repair work, that orders up OE rotors, resurfaced once, from the recycle yards. They are delivered to his shop along with other parts. The price is competitive with getting rotors resurfaced locally, but more convenient than taking time going to a local shop.

All four rotors on my 2007 were resurfaced before I bought it in May. They are working fine.

Prices here for resurfacing would be $20.00 to $30.00, I'm guessing.
 
#11 ·
I used to know a great Chrylser mechanic (he passed away several years ago). He told me that there was no need to resurface rotors, unless there was a problem. I have taken his advice for the past 30 years. If I have a warped or badly scored rotors, I replace them. If not, I just put new pads on and don't worry about resurfacing the rotors.
 
#12 ·
I guess the major reason i resurfaced rotors in the past was because i had access to the brake machine at work. So it was pretty much free. But from experience, i never noticed any loss in braking performance at all after re surfacing a rotor once or even two times. There is a min thickness marked on the rotor itself, so as long as you dont go past that, you ll be fine.

Anyone know of a aftermarket rotor for our caravans, that has good solid track record? Im probably going to swap out the stock rotors once they warp after reading all the negative comments about how weak they are.
 
#14 ·
Anyone know of a aftermarket rotor for our caravans, that has good solid track record? Im probably going to swap out the stock rotors once they warp after reading all the negative comments about how weak they are.
No matter what you buy, or what fancy box they are in, they are likely made in China. White box rotors work for me so far.

I am more concerned about the pads (materials, cracks, bonding, wear, fit, etc).

Knowing what brand of cars parts to buy is almost as bad as knowing what to eat these days.
 
#13 ·
If you get to the pads before they score the rotors, you can usually take a big (16" long 2" wide flat) file and knock down the ridges in about 10 minutes a side, catch the little rust lip on the inner and outer edge. Then you can sand one side with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and do a figure 8 on it. If one side sticks out, you could make a round jig with a hole in the middle out of plywood and do the same thing, just cut the paper out of the middle of the hole, but a little hand sanding with a block will likely be fine. If you do nothing, you have only one problem, you are braking only on the tips of all the ridges until it cuts into the pad. That will work and may not be that big a deal, but there it is. You won't have maximum surface area for a while, and it prematurely wears the pads a bit. If they are warped, that is another thing. I always replace warped ones, not only that, it is my experience that if you warp a rotor, you need to replace it asap and have the others surfaced if you waited to long. I found that a warped rotor that you just put up with transfers the uneven wear, through the pulsing of compression, to the rest of the wheels and places a worn warp on them, even though they weren't warped to begin with. It is as if you are rythmically pressing harder on the brakes every time at the same spot. I always had trouble getting rid of pulsing until I did that, even if I replaced the front rotors for warping, I turned the rear drums so they would not transfer the warp back to the new ones. I also started replacing a warped rotor with new pronto, I have always known exactly when it happened. But I have not had one for many years. I changed my braking and driving technique. I once warped my rotors immediately when I came of the interstate very fast and slammed on my brakes at the end of the ramp in water. That was it. I slowly decelerate using even brake pressure whenever I see a stop coming up, so as to dissipate heat better, and try to avoid puddles when the brakes are hot. Not always possible, but I haven't had a warped rotor, like I said, since about 1985. My last set of brakes on my 90 GV, front discs, rear drums, lasted 10 yrs., including 8 in the Blue Ridge mtns. in snow and mtn. driving. They were standard Advance brakes with lifetime warranty, and, yes, I had my receipt and got new ones for free! I usually replace a rotor instead of turning them if the cost is close, since you don't have the down time of getting them and dropping them off, and they are new! Wish you the best.
 
#15 ·
Any people who will but melamine in baby milk formula would be suspect for making excellent rotors, but that is the way it is. At least you are not eating them, just trusting the life of your family to them.
 
#16 ·
It's hard to say where parts come from these days. A rotor cast in China and machined in America - is it "made in America".

The steering box for Jeep Wranglers is no longer from Saginaw. As of 2003 they started using ZF (Germany, a Mercedes associate ???) steering boxes sourced out of India, so I'm told. Am I taking my life in my hands driving my Jeep?

The crap OE rotors on the 2008 Chrysler Minivans - where were they made?

"Imported from Detroit" - yes, and how many other countries?. Even ingredients for paint are imported.

Where do parts used by the remanufacturers originate?

The Mopar "Value Line" - likely brake parts such as rotors, are sourced from China to be competitive. Also suspension parts.

You likely have some very crucial safety components in your vehicle that are source from China, India, wherever. The additive package in your motor oil could be sourced from wherever.

Really, there is no escaping foreign content from "quality suspect" countries.

Regardless of source, it's all about quality control by whoever manufactures the part and what warranty (another quality issue maybe - locally though) is provided by the seller.
 
#18 ·
I have often done that. I usually touch up the rotors some, like remove the rust build up, maybe roughten the wear surface a little.
 
#19 ·
Nah. Resurface them unless you're running a rally race and only when they need it. Worked for me for 35+ years but then the max I've ever paid to have them turned was $10 each. If they are charging $50 consider new rotors. That said, the recent 5th generation brake problems may make replacement mandatory. Thank you Sergio.
 
#20 ·
Thank you Sergio.
Seems that a number of Manufacturers had brake problems (pad wear/rotors) around about 2008 when one checks the various Forums.

A friend's 2004 Acura TSX had the rear rotors resurfaced and pads replaced at 40,000 kms and the front rotors and pads were toast at 80,000 kms, rotors had to be replaced (badly rusted on the inside faces.) Junk OE parts, I say, and I don't believe those parts were made in China or Italy. :lol:
 
#21 ·
Agreed, $160 to resurface a pair of rotors is way too high. $10 each (if they are already off the van) is more reasonable.

I have a 3rd gen (and 3rd gens are notorious for undersized brakes), but I've had very good results with NAPA "ultra premium" rotors. I believe they are the same as Raybestos "advanced technology" rotors.

The pair on the van now has been resurfaced once (last time I put new pads on). I expect that at my next pad replacement, I'll put a new set of rotors on as well, and go with the same kind again.

- G
 
#23 ·
Slapped a set of pads on the T&C rotors were smooth works great.

My sport shakes when hard braking ...rotors will be replaced.

Good pads, new rotors ..second pads less quality then, replace rotors (2 years)

usually try to knock the rust off the fins when changing tires.
 
#24 ·
I personally never resurface rotors. But I can't. My rotors are always warped. Now if your rotors are not warped, you can resurface as long as they are still within specification (you do lose some ability to dispurse heat however). I would not just slap pads on, as some here have done, because if there are any grooves in the rotors (and there is, even tiny ones) you will not have full braking power until the brake pads are worn into the grooves.

Having said that, I was in a pinch two weeks ago and pad slapped the rear of the 2010. The rotors all the way around are shot (warped), and I can not afford to put the brakes I want too on it (for me, the ONLY brake pads and rotors to buy are Raybestos) so I bought a cheap set of organic brakes and pad slapped the rear till I can afford new Raybestos brake pads and rotors all the way around. It took about 10 days for the pedal to feel 'normal' and not spongy from the tiny grooves in the rotors. However, no way I would ever EVER EVER pad slap the front.
 
#25 · (Edited)
The rotors all the way around are shot (warped), and I can not afford to put the brakes I want too on it (for me, the ONLY brake pads and rotors to buy are Raybestos) so I bought a cheap set of organic brakes and pad slapped the rear till I can afford new Raybestos brake pads and rotors all the way around. It took about 10 days for the pedal to feel 'normal' and not spongy from the tiny grooves in the rotors. However, no way I would ever EVER EVER pad slap the front.
I like Raybestos non ceramic brake pads. Their ceramic pads were garbage on the two vehicles that I used them on. I think if I try ceramics again that I will go with Akebonos or whatever the best appears to be.
 
#28 ·
Keep in mind that when a shop says it's better to replace than resurface, that might be because they are getting a markup off of new parts such as from Carquest (my experience here). Normally, a rotor should be able to be resurfaced once at least.
 
#29 ·
This is a new twist on this, but ever since I paid to have rotors turned and it still was warped, I have always asked if their machine turns both sides at the same time or whether they surface one side, turn it over, and to the other. I would never again allow anyone to turn my rotors if they did not do both sides at once. That way you know they are true, if there is any bias on their machine, it may leave it off true. I hope no one else had the same experience, and you can site all the technical stuff you want, but I know that in my case, I wasted the money turning the rotors on a one side at a time machine, and have never used them since. Never have I had a problem since.
 
#30 ·
A "real" lathe, like in our machine shop and every other machine shop in USA, only cuts from one side and we makes parts that are .0001" or better. So cutting from both sides makes no difference if the rotor was not properly mounted in the first place. If the rotor is off parallel from the get go, so are both surfaces. I've seen so many guys at auto repair shops take the rotors right from the car and right to the lathe------WITHOUT ever cleaning or bead blasting the mounting surfaces. That's just WRONG! The devil is in the details. I've had a local shop told me they can't cut cross drilled rotors because the cutter will go into the holes. I laughed and said " Here's your sign" and walked away. He obviously does not know how a lathe works (a lathe can turn square bar stock into round parts), and that's the type of guy who should not cut ANY rotor. I know you may not agree, but I suspect it was the tech, not the brake lathe. Another small detail on keeping your rotor in good shape----use a torque wrench and tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque rating. The meat heads that run your lugs in with an impact gun should be crucified for doing so, one of the easiest was to ruin a rotor. You may think I'm crazy( I already know I am) but that is why they give you torque ratings in the first place. Just my $.02
 
#31 ·
I remember an episode of "Motorweek", where they resurfaced the rotors while they were still on the vehicle. Some kind of floating lathe to compensate for how exactly that rotor turned at that particular location.
 
#32 ·
Yes. The on-car brake lathe. Now the gold standard because it also factors in any run-out in the hub. We have one at the dealership. Works great.
 
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