Replacing the Brake Booster??



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Thread: Replacing the Brake Booster??

  1. #1
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    Replacing the Brake Booster??

    Hey everyone,

    The other day when I was getting the Van inspected, my brother in-law said that the brake booster is going. When you step on the brake pedal it whistles at you. How hard is it to change one, what are the Do's and Dont's for it?

    Thanks
    Ryan
    '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3L 182k 6/12 - Wife's Daily Driver
    '94 GMC Jimmy SLE 4x4 - My Daily Driver - Died, Blown Head
    '94 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Stick - Summer Fun and Current Daily Driver

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  3. #2
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    No one has done it then.
    '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3L 182k 6/12 - Wife's Daily Driver
    '94 GMC Jimmy SLE 4x4 - My Daily Driver - Died, Blown Head
    '94 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Stick - Summer Fun and Current Daily Driver

  4. #3
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    I replaced mine last fall, it was on a 3.8. I ended up doing it twice, once to put the replacement booster, then the next day to put the original one back because the replacement provided less assist than the original one did .

    As I recall, it was about a 3-4 hour job the first time, half that the second time. The procedures were along these lines:

    1. Remove the battery.
    2. Remove the air resonator and air filter assembly.
    3. If you have cruise control, there are servo vacuum lines connecting to the battery tray, those need to be disconnected, along with the wiring harness. Remove the speed control servo bracket bolt at the battery tray.
    4. Remove the battery tray.
    5. Remove EGR wiring harness connector.
    6. Remove wiring harness connectors from AIS motor and TPS.
    7. Remove throttle body from intake manifold (two bolts) and the clip attaching wiring harness to throttle cable bracket.
    8. Remove wiring harness connector from master cylinder fluid level sensor.
    9. Remove wiper module (shop manual does not tell you to this, but I cannot see how this job can be done without doing this).
    10. Remove master cylinder from brake booster and move it aside.
    11. Remove EGR valve and vacuum transducer as an assembly.
    12. Remove booster vacuum hose.
    13. Remove retaining clip holding booster rod to brake pedal (under dash).
    14. Remove four nuts holding booster to firewall (under dash).
    15. Pull out the booster.

    Item 15 sounds much easier than it really was, I wrestled with the booster for a good 30 minutes to get it out. The booster would not come out easily, there was not enough room between the intake manifold, master cylinder laying on the motor mount, and some the strut tower. Moreover, the heater hoses going to the rear heater were in the way. I ended up undoing these hoses at the firewall connection, but because they were attached to rigid tubes, I could not move them out of the way! So I had to find the attach point for the rigid tubes that I could hardly see, and undo that attachment. Then I pushed the hoses out of the way, and some bloodied knuckles later, the booster was out.

    Does this help, or did you just want to know if this is an easy or hard job?
    Last edited by lyonkster; 03-27-2011 at 11:14 AM.
    Leon
    '97 Town & Country LXi

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    Wow, what a project, based on that list. Now, I understand, just cuz a booster may whistle or swoosh, its not a smoking gun for a bad booster. I have a car with such a booster, and its "swooshed" for years and years. Still works. There is a test to troubleshoot boosters. You should perhaps look into it before concluding its bad.....

    Easy to find that (and other) tests on google.......

  6. #5
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    really bloodied knuckles? Thats the deal breaker. Sounds like a fun task. Thanks for all the details. I'll let you know how it goes.
    '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3L 182k 6/12 - Wife's Daily Driver
    '94 GMC Jimmy SLE 4x4 - My Daily Driver - Died, Blown Head
    '94 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Stick - Summer Fun and Current Daily Driver

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    OK, maybe not truly bloodied, just scraped . I agree with pippo though, if all it does is whistle, maybe you don't need a new one - there are some easy tests you can do to decide if you need a new one. You'd hate to do what I did, put a new one in only to find out the old was better .
    Leon
    '97 Town & Country LXi

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    Hey I finally got around to doing the Booster, only due to the fact that the brake pedal was getting hard and longer for the van to slow and stop.

    I followed the steps in the Haynes manual. It seems tedious and a bear of a job, but it went pretty quick getting everything undone and removed. The worst part was getting the booster out and back in due to those heater hoses. If they were moved over to the left about 3 inches, it would have been cake of a job. It was worse going in, due to the booster rod being extended and making the booster even longer then needed. It would have been easier if the rod was somehow retracted until you got it lined up with the holes and then release it.

    Also the rod must be a bit shorter or something, because the brake pedal wasnt coming back/up as far to hit the brake switch to turn of my brake lights. I had to put a metal clip that I had in the tool box on the pedal arm so that it would hit the switch. Otherwise the whole job was fairly straight forward and took me about 3 hrs.
    '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3L 182k 6/12 - Wife's Daily Driver
    '94 GMC Jimmy SLE 4x4 - My Daily Driver - Died, Blown Head
    '94 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Stick - Summer Fun and Current Daily Driver

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    If it works the same as on my Intrepid, you need to reset the brake light switch. Pretty easy to do (if you are double jointed or an acrobat) since it is self adjusting. Anyway, for my Intrepid, I needed to hold the brake pedal down far enough to create some room between the switch and the pedal arm. Then, using either a screwdriver or small pliers, pull the switch out several clicks (it ratchets). After that, just release the pedal, and it resets itself.

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    I tried that, but I was scared to pull on it to hard, since its only plastic. Maybe I'll go to the pic a part and get a few spares and try it with them.
    '98 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3L 182k 6/12 - Wife's Daily Driver
    '94 GMC Jimmy SLE 4x4 - My Daily Driver - Died, Blown Head
    '94 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Stick - Summer Fun and Current Daily Driver

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98PlyGrdVoyagerSE View Post
    The worst part was getting the booster out and back in due to those heater hoses.
    Yup .

    Also the rod must be a bit shorter or something, because the brake pedal wasnt coming back/up as far to hit the brake switch to turn of my brake lights. I had to put a metal clip that I had in the tool box on the pedal arm so that it would hit the switch.
    That switch is adjustable. You need to remove it by rotating the switch assembly about 30 deg CCW, and pulling it out. Then disconnect the wiring harness, and pull firmly on the plunger, until it's fully extended. While pressing the brake pedal down as far as you can, install the switch back in the bracket and rotate it 30 deg CW to lock it in place. Reconnect the wiring harness, then gently let the brake pedal out, it will ratchet the switch backward as needed.
    Leon
    '97 Town & Country LXi

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to lyonkster For This Useful Post:

    dun4now (05-22-2011)

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