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timing chain in 94 3.8 L

8K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  dun4now 
#1 ·
Does anyone have any opinions (ho, ho, ho, hooooo, that ought to do something) about the expected life of the timing chain in the 3.8 L engine? I didn't find it in the maintenance schedule but I have doubts it will last forever. My 94 T&C is coming up on 200K miles and it suddenly hit me that I may be treading on very thin ice. I see that once the cover is removed, the stretch can be measured but once everything is opened up, a new chain is going in.

So, anyone have any thoughts on timing chain longevity?

Thanks,
Donn
 
#3 ·
Ooo, ooo! (That's Gunther Toody if anyone remembers "Car 54 Where Are You?".)

Another way to look at this is to ask if anyone has had a timing chain failure and/or replaced their chain. If so, what were the circumstances. That would also be quite helpful.

Thanks to foamham and any who add to this thread,

Donn
 
#4 ·
Your timing chain will let you know when it is done. Usually when nearing 300k miles. It will stretch to the point where it skips a tooth on the gears and the engine goes from running fine, to running like crap instantly.
 
#5 ·
If the timing chain jumps, would it bend the valves? I don't know if I'd want to wait to find out. Has the van in question ever had the timing cover off? How's the oil pressure, and how new is the water pump? It's cold weather season now, so you might want to let it go until next spring, and plan for a weekend project. Since the oil pump and water pump are both bolted to the timing cover, might as well replace them if they have high mileage on them, since they'll be coming out with the timing cover anyway.

I just had to replace the timing cover gasket and O-rings on the 3.8 in our 2000 T&C, and it's very much the same. You also have to drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover, so might as well plan ahead to do the job when it needs an oil change. Also, the little 10mm water pump bolts break easily, so it's better to wait with them until the cover is off, and then break the bolts loose with an impact driver, WD-40, and heat from a propane torch. Use a little anti-seize lubricant on the bolt threads when putting on the new pump, to help with future replacements. Also, you can leave the cam sensor bolted to the timing cover; just unplug it before removing the timing cover. I also hope you mean you are replacing the timing chain AND GEARS as a timing SET. Over time, the gears wear too, making the part that the chain rides in smaller, and that creates even MORE chain slack; which is why it is recommended to replace it all as a set. I should've replaced the timing set in our van when I had it apart, but I was running out of time and didn't have time to wait for the parts (or the $$). At least I know the condition of it now, and how to get to it. Hope my advice from my experience helps you out!
 
#6 ·
Normally when a timing chain jumps, it only makes it 1 tooth which will not harm the valves. After 1 tooth, it will run like crap to the point where you would not drive it enough like that without fixing it.
 
#7 ·
If you take the oil pan off, you will be able to see the lower end of the chain as well as reach up and feel how loose it is getting. My haynes manual says that if you can feel more than an 1" of side to side movement (measured halfway between cam sprocket and crank sprocket) it is time to replace.

If you are going to replace the chain ( and sprockets), plan for some time to get the crank pulley off. When I did mine, I ended up putting a puller on it, spraying it with penetrating lube, leaving it overnight. The next morning I turned on the puller some, sprayed some more, went to work. Came home that evening, cranked on the puller, sprayed some more, ..... you get the idea. Eventually it came off, but it didn't want to.
 
#8 ·
Now that's patience I am well short of. I would have gotten it off in the first hour destroyed or not.:lol:
 
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