removing the alternator with the 3.8L engine and high output alternator



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Thread: removing the alternator with the 3.8L engine and high output alternator

  1. #1
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    Question removing the alternator with the 3.8L engine and high output alternator

    I have to replace my alternator this week
    Never done this on a third gen yet and it looks easy

    BUT I read in a few places that the larger high output alternator like the one on my van could be a real pain to get off because it's slightly too big to slide out from the belt side

    any first hand reports ?
    currently owning
    Chrysler Town&Country 1998 LXI AWD 3.8L aka the evil money pit

    Dodge Avenger 1999 Sport edition 6g73 V6 , a really nice gem !

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  3. #2
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    i had no issues removing my high output alternator through the drive belt side. I just removed the triangle part, the wiper cowl etc..
    96 Town and Country LXi
    '01 Honda S2000 with boost (448whp 302ft/lbs on pump, 562whp 416ft/lbs on Q16)

  4. #3
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    I did today it wasn't as easy as I was expecting beeing that it was the OEM alternator the lower bolt was seized and you need every millimeter that you could get to slide it out
    and my old alternator died for the weirdest reason you could get
    the sound proofing/heat shielding carpet on the firewal gave away just behind the alternator
    it rubbed on the belt , so the belt shrew it to fine particles and the alternator swallowed all of the carpet particles it could get
    currently owning
    Chrysler Town&Country 1998 LXI AWD 3.8L aka the evil money pit

    Dodge Avenger 1999 Sport edition 6g73 V6 , a really nice gem !

  5. #4
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    That is indeed a very unique way for an alt to go. Makes me wonder about the sagging insulation in my engine compartment....
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

  6. #5
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    Just removed 2 high output alternators this weekend; one from a junkyard Caravan that happened to be a reman , and one from our T&C. I got them both out through the belt side, and only removed the triangle brace for access to the wiring on the back of the alternator. The only thing that worries me is having to bend the fuel supply hose over so hard to remove the alternator. That hose can't be replaced by itself; it's part of the whole fuel rail! Stupid Chrysler engineers. Anyway, our alternator seized up by itself because the van sat for 9 months without being started.

    I want to elaborate on the alternator seizing up, because I saw a LOT of alternators at the junkyard that the same thing had happened. What happens is moisture forms at the bottom of the alternator case and causes aluminum corrosion. On top of that, there is a steel stud on the very bottom (one of four) that holds the case halves together. The moisture gets into that and makes it rust, and the rust expands so hard that it warps and cracks the alternator case! It puts enough uneven pressure on the case to cause the rotor of the alternator to bind against the stator, locking it up. I disassembled our bad alternator to find this out, and also the bearings were totally good! So I plan to disassemble the good junkyard alternator, clean the corrosion out of the case, and smear grease and antiseize compound everywhere I can, to seal the moisture out. I think if everyone did that to their alternators, they would last a lot longer.
    DAN(husband of member STEPHANIE)

    2000 Chrysler Town & Country Limited - Dark Charcoal Metallic with chrome trim, taupe leather interior, loaded. In need of rust repair on rockers and liftgate. Now enjoying the new family mommy-mobile!

    Knowledge can never be wisdom without experience.
    "Your experience is a commodity."
    "Opportunity is not a lengthy visitor."
    DRIVE = LOVE

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