Replacing water pump in a 96 voyager 3.3L



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Thread: Replacing water pump in a 96 voyager 3.3L

  1. #1
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    Replacing water pump in a 96 voyager 3.3L

    Monday, I replaced the lower radiator hose on my van due to a leak. That did not solve the leak and we discovered it was coming from the water pump (the hose was going so no big loss). We got a replacement and started taking off the accessory belt, then the pulley. No problems. When removing the bolts from the water pump....one snapped off. We were able to remove the water pump without issue but I cannot put the new one on because of the broken bolt. It is flush with the part the pump is bolted to. We tried to use and extractor and THAT broke off in the bolt! So we are pretty much frustrated.....

    My question is this: Is the part that the water pump is bolted to removable? One of my gearhead friends (who does not work on DCM products much) asked because if it is, it may be easier just to replace that whole part. I want to get my van working soon!
    1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE
    3.3L V6
    Purple exterior/Black and grey interior

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  3. #2
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    The water pump is bolted to the timing chain cover, which seems like a PITA to replace. According to the shop manual:

    REMOVAL
    (1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
    (2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Cooling System
    Group 7 for procedure.
    (3) Support engine and remove right engine
    mount.
    (4) Raise vehicle on hoist. Drain engine oil.
    (5) Remove oil pan and oil pump pick-up. It may
    necessary to remove transaxle inspection cover.
    (6) Remove right wheel and inner splash shield.
    (7) Remove drive belt. Refer to Cooling System
    Group 7 for procedure.
    (8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
    (9) Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket.
    (10) Remove crankshaft damper (Fig. 44).
    (11) Remove idler pulley from engine bracket.
    (12) Remove engine bracket (Fig. 45).
    (13) Remove cam sensor from chain case cover
    (Fig. 46).
    (14) Remove chain case cover (Fig. 46).

    Sounds like you are better off trying to get the broken bolts out. Drill out to the largest size you can without damaging the threads, then using a good quality EZout. But I guess if all else fails, you could remove the timing cover and take it to a machine shop.
    Leon
    '97 Town & Country LXi

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    I'd put it together missing the bolt and run a lower pressure rad cap if you didn't want to pull the timing cover. It really doesn't seem like too much work to pull the cover though. Just time.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

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    Quote Originally Posted by lyonkster View Post
    The water pump is bolted to the timing chain cover, which seems like a PITA to replace. According to the shop manual:

    REMOVAL

    (8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
    (9) Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket.

    Sounds like you are better off trying to get the broken bolts out. Drill out to the largest size you can without damaging the threads, then using a good quality EZout. But I guess if all else fails, you could remove the timing cover and take it to a machine shop.
    The A/C is the biggest problem/cost.
    It will need to be evacuated at a shop before removing the compressor, then the van taken back to be recharged once it is all back together.

    You can get diamond-tipped drill bits with a reverse twist - use 1 with a good reversing drill and the extracter will most likely come out.
    Before you try tho., give the remains of the bolt a good soaking in WD40 or similar and leave it for a while - with any luck the broken bolt will also come out.

    On second thoughts, you might be able to CAREFULLY hang the compressor from the hood with out removing the pipes. just take care not to put any pressure on the aluminum pipes because they will fracture quite easily.
    '97 Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3 LE (UK Model) , 167,000 miles. Dual Fuel Petrol/LPG. Tow Pack.
    Now sold. New owner is using as a project ! Replaced by a 2000 Nissan Primera 2.0L Sport+

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    The book just says to unbolt the compressor and let it sit on the top crossmember. I haven't done it myself though.

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    NO!! You do not need to disconnect the AC!! I replaced my timing chain, and yes the water pump is attached to the timing chain cover. You do remove the AC compressor, but you do not need to evacuate or disconnect the hoses. You just use something to pull it out of the way. I used cable ties. Now you could drill out the broken stud once you get the timing cover off. Tap the hole and use a new bolt size (it will be bigger). I had a water pump bolt snap on me as I was torquing it in. This happened at another time when I was replacing the water pump - not when I was changing the timing chain. I drilled out what I could of the broken stud, but not all the way through. I had a short self tapping bolt that I used and able to torque it in. So far, three years later, it had held and no leaks

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    I haven't had to do this, and I do recall that access to the water pump is limited due to the wheel well, but I would still try my best to drill and retap the hole in place - seems like a lot less work than dropping the oil pan, moving all the other parts, etc, to get the timing cover off. But obviously don't go so far as to screw up the timing cover . Get yourself a good drill bit, like pure carbide, it should cut though your broken extractor like butter.
    Leon
    '97 Town & Country LXi

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    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.
    Same thing happened to me when I replaced the water pump, only I overtightened one bolt and it snapped off. Sharp guy I know told me you can use a mig to weld a nut to the bolt. Just attach the ground to the engine and hold a nut up to the broken bolt with needle nose pliers. Couple of short bursts with the mig and you can turn the bolt right out. The case is aluminum so weld won't stick to it. It worked great.

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