Desperate - Rear main again



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Thread: Desperate - Rear main again

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by cshoff View Post
    Then I find it quite unlikely that excessive oil pressure is the cause of your problem. In fact, on engines with 100+K miles on them, tolerances and bearings are usually worn sufficiently that you simply won't reach critically high oil pressures, regardless of the condition of the pump.

    Yep, they generally go in dry. Some folks like to use a real light film of RTV around the edge of the seal, but most of the time it's not required. As far as not "knowing how you could mess that up", well, if I had a dollar for every "messed up" repair I've seen automotive shops perform.........
    I'm not sure what to do then. Should I just tear out the transmission and then redo the seal myself? Its just odd to me that something was pushing the seal out so that it was rubbing into the flex plate and etched a groove in it and now a month later, its leaking again. There is no air pressure behind this since only oil touches the seal, and the dip stick would pop out if there was that much crankcase pressure. (i'd AssUMe)

    If I do it myself I want to glue the damn thing in there with superglue or something that will keep me from having to do this, but I still wonder why it is popping out in the first place.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ayrobotech View Post
    I'm not sure what to do then. Should I just tear out the transmission and then redo the seal myself? Its just odd to me that something was pushing the seal out so that it was rubbing into the flex plate and etched a groove in it and now a month later, its leaking again. There is no air pressure behind this since only oil touches the seal, and the dip stick would pop out if there was that much crankcase pressure. (i'd AssUMe)

    If I do it myself I want to glue the damn thing in there with superglue or something that will keep me from having to do this, but I still wonder why it is popping out in the first place.
    Until you know for sure what the problem is, it's hard to try to tell you exactly how to fix it. If the original seal wore a groove into the crankshaft journal, and a replacement seal was installed that rides in that same groove, then it's a given that it would continue to leak. The replacement seal would either need to be of the offset type so it's lip would contact a virgin part of the crank journal, or the crank would have needed to have a repair sleeve and the appropriate replacement seal installed.

    One way or the other, somebody is going to have to take a look at that rear main seal and figure out exactly what is going on. I do NOT envy the job you have ahead of you.
    2000 Plymouth Voyager - Original 2.4L and 31TH - 210,000 miles

    1997 Dodge Caravan Sport - Original 3.3L and 41TE - 113,000 miles

  4. #23
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    I wouldn't mess with this myself. The shop that replaced the seal should own the problem. I'd take it back to them and complain.

    --Geoff

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cshoff View Post
    Until you know for sure what the problem is, it's hard to try to tell you exactly how to fix it. If the original seal wore a groove into the crankshaft journal, and a replacement seal was installed that rides in that same groove, then it's a given that it would continue to leak. The replacement seal would either need to be of the offset type so it's lip would contact a virgin part of the crank journal, or the crank would have needed to have a repair sleeve and the appropriate replacement seal installed.

    One way or the other, somebody is going to have to take a look at that rear main seal and figure out exactly what is going on. I do NOT envy the job you have ahead of you.
    Thats actually a good point. If the seal had been turning at all it would have etched into the crank journal. I hadn't thought of that. I'm not familiar with these offset seals or the repair sleeves. Any pointers for more information on them so I can see which one I can get?

    Thank you very much

  6. #25
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    You would have to talk to an enigne machine shop or dealer about the seals/ repair sleeves.

    But regarding measuring the oil pressure, you get a mechanical gauge set that contains all the necessary adapters to put the gauge where the stock sensor goes. Then you just run the engine and see what happens.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

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    Quote Originally Posted by andyg View Post
    You would have to talk to an enigne machine shop or dealer about the seals/ repair sleeves.

    But regarding measuring the oil pressure, you get a mechanical gauge set that contains all the necessary adapters to put the gauge where the stock sensor goes. Then you just run the engine and see what happens.
    Got a URL to one? I tried looking online for one just a little while ago but it didn't turn up anything practical.

  8. #27
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    An off the wall thought that came to mind is, maybe (just maybe) you have some "main bearing" slop. That could possibly push a seal out. Simple way to check this would be to get side access to your crank pulley (remove the serpentine belt first). See if you can pull and/or push the crank pulley towards or away from the block. As if you were attempting to pull it out or push it in. Removing the passenger tire will give you access to this side of the engine. If there is "ANY" slop in or out on the crank, then you need a new "thrust" bearing. At that point, you can plan on removing and replacing ALL the bearings (rod and main, since you're in there). Actually, they are very easy to remove and replace, on these engines.

    Try these steps and let us know.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 222,222 miles and counting ......
    Still Going Strong


  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTraveller View Post
    An off the wall thought that came to mind is, maybe (just maybe) you have some "main bearing" slop. That could possibly push a seal out. Simple way to check this would be to get side access to your crank pulley (remove the serpentine belt first). See if you can pull and/or push the crank pulley towards or away from the block. As if you were attempting to pull it out or push it in. Removing the passenger tire will give you access to this side of the engine. If there is "ANY" slop in or out on the crank, then you need a new "thrust" bearing. At that point, you can plan on removing and replacing ALL the bearings (rod and main, since you're in there). Actually, they are very easy to remove and replace, on these engines.

    Try these steps and let us know.
    Thank you, that is a fascinating thought, but one that could definitely be in play here. I just have to figure out which one is the right pulley and then get access to it. I think this upcoming weekend is minivan day.

    The thrust bearing is the one behind the rear main seal or that is opposite where the pulley is?

  10. #29
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    Here is a LINK to a inexpensive oil gauge. It will be plenty accurate to tell you what you need to know about your actual oil pressure.

    As far as the pulley you need to access to check for end play, it is the main drive pulley at the bottom center of the engine. That pulley is bolted directly to your crankshaft. I've never been into the lower end of a 3.3L Chrysler engine, but I would guess that the thrust bearing is the rear-most bearing in the set (closest to the rear main seal).
    2000 Plymouth Voyager - Original 2.4L and 31TH - 210,000 miles

    1997 Dodge Caravan Sport - Original 3.3L and 41TE - 113,000 miles

  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cshoff View Post
    Here is a LINK to a inexpensive oil gauge. It will be plenty accurate to tell you what you need to know about your actual oil pressure.

    As far as the pulley you need to access to check for end play, it is the main drive pulley at the bottom center of the engine. That pulley is bolted directly to your crankshaft. I've never been into the lower end of a 3.3L Chrysler engine, but I would guess that the thrust bearing is the rear-most bearing in the set (closest to the rear main seal).
    Thank you! However, I held this gauge in my hand yesterday. What the autozone guy couldn't tell me was the adapter I needed to screw it into the engine to have it adapt up with the pressure sensor. So the brass adapter is what i'm missing. I see a few here that might be of the right size (its large, about 9/16")...

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...oductId=131456


    I also want to thank all of you that have offered help and suggestions, it has been extremely valuable to me )))))

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