Plymouth Voyager 2000 with 152000 miles - should I change the transmission fluid?
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Thread: Plymouth Voyager 2000 with 152000 miles - should I change the transmission fluid?

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    Plymouth Voyager 2000 with 152000 miles - should I change the transmission fluid?

    Should I change the transmission fluid at 152000 miles for my 2000 Plymouth Voyager? Thanks again forum.



    Ply2000


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    Do you know the last time it was done and what trans you have? If not, I would say that it may be a good idea.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 127500 miles. Used trans at ~96k

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

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    If it's never been done I'd not touch it. I've seen it do no harm, and I've seen the new fluid remove the sludge that was holding everything together so to speak. If it was mine, I'd not touch it.
    Jeff
    http://www.facebook.com/eddie.munster
    Current:
    2010 Chrysler Town & Country Touring/3.8L V6/63K mi/original 62TE
    2006 Chrysler 300C/5.7L HEMI V8/101K/original W5A580(NAG1)
    1992 Chevrolet S-10/4.3L V6/246K mi/original 4L60E
    Previous minivans:
    1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE/traded@192K mi/3.3L V6/original 41TE
    2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport/3.8L V6/traded@124K mi/original 41TE
    2007 Chrysler Town & Country/3.8L V6/traded@44K mi (for the 2010)/ original 41TE

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    I've always heard the "don't change it if it's been too long or if its old" but I believe that to be a myth. You ever opened up a transmission? They're usually spotless. ATF does wonders at keeping them clean. I changed it for the first time on my oldsmobile at 196,000 miles and it did nothing but make it shift smoother and stop shuddering. Go ahead and change it. Use a quality filter WIX, Mopar, etc and ATF+4 fluid.
    2001 Infiniti I30 3.0 DOHC V6: VQ30DE 160,000 miles
    1997 Chrysler Town & Country LXi 3.8 41TE, 180,000 Miles Orig.41TE
    1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Laramie 5.9 46RE, 165,000 Miles
    Prev. 94 T&C 3.8 156k Miles, 93 GV LE 3.3 123k, 91 Acclaim LE 2.5 284k

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    Quote Originally Posted by sideburns2009 View Post
    I've always heard the "don't change it if it's been too long or if its old" but I believe that to be a myth. You ever opened up a transmission? They're usually spotless. ATF does wonders at keeping them clean. I changed it for the first time on my oldsmobile at 196,000 miles and it did nothing but make it shift smoother and stop shuddering. Go ahead and change it. Use a quality filter WIX, Mopar, etc and ATF+4 fluid.
    x2. My original trans had fluid so burned up that the converter would squeal until warmed up if the temp was under 40 degrees. I flushed it after a pan drop, and even with that fluid the inside of the trans was very clean. When it started to fail, I dropped the pan one more time and found the inside coated (literally every surface had gunk) with clutch material. At that time the ATF had been more than exceeded in its cleaning abilities by the shredding clutches lol.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 127500 miles. Used trans at ~96k

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

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    I would agree with a pan drop, new filter clean the magnet and new fluid. Try one change and drive it for a while (only 1/2 fluid change) Drive for a while, if good, change again the fluid at the next oil change, etc. for 3 changes and you will have a pretty clean fluid swap out. Doing it slowly may help it clean gradually. Flushing at this point I would not recommend since it is so drastic and could break loose instead of dissolving the varnish, etc.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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    Do the pan drop and fluid change to ATF+4. I siphon all I can out of the filler tube, then drop the pan and drain whatever else I can. Remove the old filter, clean the magnet, and wipe down what you can including the inside of the pan with lint free cloth. Then install the new filter, clean both the pan edge and the transmission case to the bare metal without scratching. I use the sharp edge of a piece of hardwood for this so the pan and case can't be damaged. Put on the new rubberized pan gasket, and slowly hand tighten the bolts in a manner to uniformly snug up the pan without bending or high torque. I don't recommend using any kind of gasket goop like RTV. I have never had a pan leak with the new rubberized or silicone gaskets if you clean the surfaces and tighten the bolts properly.

    Once the pan is reinstalled, wipe down the outside so you can check for leaks as you refill the tranny with the new fluid. You can put in at least 4 quarts before you start the engine and then add more fluid as necessary to bring it up to snuff.

    DON'T EVER FLUSH these transmissions is my advice. Just do this procedure every 20,000 to 30,000 miles and she will keep on turning as long as you don't abuse her.

    I have had 3 Chrysler product vans that survived 212K, 267K, and currently 205K using this procedure... The others had transmission failures before I knew this had to be done... This van is on its ORIGINAL transmission.

    Good Luck, and let us know how it drives after you change your fluid in this manner... When I bought my current van at 167K... it shifted a little "clunky"... the first thing I did was service the transmission in this way because i had no idea how it had been cared for previously... by the end of the test drive after the fluid change, the transmission shifted so smoothly that I had to watch the Tach to be sure it was actually happening.
    Regards, -John

    1998 Chrysler T&C LXi 3.8 220 K miles and counting!

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    Wow - thanks for all the responses! The transmission is starting to get a little clunky. 152000 miles and I've never changed the fluid. It's good to know folks are getting an extended life out of these vehicles. Thanks again and if and when I change it I let the forum know the results.

    Ply2000

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    Drop the pan, change the fluid and filter. Can put a drain plug in the pan while you are at it to facilitate drains in the future. Drain plug kits are readily available.
    Reasons:
    - the fluid loses it frictional properties over time (wears out).
    - the transmission may have ATF+3 in it, an inferior product to ATF+4.
    - very importantly, the filter may be dirty and especially so if a back flush was ever done.
    A definite yes to a new filter and fluid, a definite recommendation to the installation of a drain plug.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 68,700 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 262,800 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 238,370 kms

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    Change is good!
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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