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Synthetic Motor Oil

45K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  jgbat 
#1 ·
What type of synthetic motor oil would you guys recommend? I have the 3.8L. I'm just curious cause I will hopefully be changing my oil soon (waiting on the weather) and wanted to try something new.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Firstly, "synthetic motor oil" may not be all that "synthetic". They are basically high quality mineral oils using Group III base oils.

Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil ONLY in the United States.
Ture synthetics, per European standards, are from Group IV base stocks.

The motor oil called for in your Owner Manual, in a Group II, Group III, or Group IV base stock, or a blend thereof, will work, depending of how much you want to pay.

Looking at the Castrol line up:
- Castrol Edge provides 8 times better wear protection than Mobil 1 5W-30, so they say.
Castrol EDGE. Unsurpassed engine wear protection from the technology leader in motor oil.
Castrol EDGE’s is an advanced synthetic that offers unsurpassed engine wear protection that no leading synthetic can beat and is guaranteed to protect your engine for up to 15,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first.*
- Castrol Syntec sounds great as well.

Oil and filter Manufacturers, for the most part, like to keep you in the dark about the finer details of their products while they say how great they are and how much better they are. NONE, ABSOLUTELY NONE, OF THEM ARE TO BE TRUSTED WHILE THEY KEEP YOU IN THE DARK (NOT TRANSPARENT) ABOUT THEIR PRODUCTS AND DELUDE YOU WITH "THEIR GREATNESS".

Personally I stick with conventional oils and frequent oil changes (5,000 to 8,000 kilometers). Some reasons for that are:
- to not carry the contaminants forming in the oil around for extended periods of time,
- to not carry possible bad batches of oil*** around for extended periods of time;
- to grease, apply rust inhibitor whereever needed and check the underside of the vehicle out frequently.

If going to synthetic I would use whatever is on sale in the 5W-20/30 or 10W-30 grades, probably the Wal-Mart house brand providing it has the API Starburst Symbol.

If going for the fancy stuff, I would go for the German Castrol 0W-30 (says German on the container) as that oil comes highly recommended by many and is available locally.

Shipo has extensive experience with Mobil 1 synthetics and Jason has extensive experience with Castrol synthetics. They will likely respond to your Post.

***Valvoline publically challenged Mobil as to their oil meeting API Standards per this site.
For those that took the time to read the Q&A sheet that accompanied Valvoline's letter (see link below), Valvoline turned up the heat even more by saying " Mobil 1 5W-30 DOES NOT MEET the most basic API SM or ILSAC GF-4 specifications. That means Mobil 1 5W-30 cannot meet basic GM, Ford, Chrysler or Honda specifications."

Ouch! That's certainly a serious claim, and one that Thomas R. Smith, Technical Director of Valvoline Lubricants told JobbersWorld he stands behind. According to Smith, Ashland made ExxonMobil aware of this issue in September and as of December 11th, "ExxonMobil has been silent."

But whereas ExxonMobil apparently has not responded directly to Ashland, they did respond to JobbersWorld's request for a comment. So here it is, ExxonMobil's response to the press:

"We would like you to know that while we are aware of Valvoline's assertions, ExxonMobil stands behind the quality of Mobil 1 and all of our lubes products. ExxonMobil's GF 4 licenses for all product lines are valid."
Sounds like ExxonMobil were caught with "their pants on the ground". :lol:

Discussions on motor oils can go on forever. Here's a discussion from BITOG that may interest you.
 
#15 ·
Shipo has extensive experience with Mobil 1 synthetics and Jason has extensive experience with Castrol synthetics.
If I were using a synthetic, especially for a vehicle which calls for 5W-30 oil, I'd probably start with the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. The Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 almost passes for a 0W-30. It provides great protection and its service is extremely well-documented on BobIsTheOilGuy.com. I'm not all high on Mobil 1, only because I used it once and wasn't happy with it. I don't recommend against it, but I do prefer other products.

I'm using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 in our '07, and am 100% satisfied with it in that application. However, I did use it in my '07 Corolla, and didn't like it so much in that. That car really likes Havoline 5W-30 (conventional). I think every engine is different.
 
#3 ·
I've run Mobil 1 0W-40 year-round in all three of our 3.8s; the UOAs come back showing stellar results, even after 10,000 miles, and the engines run extremely well and return fuel economy well above the EPA estimates. What's not to like. ;)

FWIW, I completely discount the Castrol and Valvoline marketing bilge. Why? Due to the above mentioned Used Oil Analysis results, Mobil 1 0W-40 comes back with lower wear metals after 10,000 miles than the Blackstone Labs "Universal Averages" which are only for about 3,700 miles. If Mobil 1 was as bad as the marketing literature is trying to indicate, my engines would have been toast years ago.
 
#4 ·
I always run Mobil 1 in my Vette and MINI.........haven't tried it in the T&C as yet.

You can get it in 5 Qt jugs at Walmart or by the case at COSTCO at good prices
 
#5 ·
I run Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic and also use the Mobil oil filter. 10w/30 in the 03, and 5w/20 in the 07. :thumb:
 
#6 ·
I am on my last few miles of GC 0W-30 in my 2003 3.3l engine with 191000 miles. My van sits outside in the Minnesota winter without a block heater. The GC 0W-30 has been very good in starting below zero. The engine runs very smooth and quiet at idle. What I don't like about it is a perceived drag on acceleration and a somewhat lower gas mileage. I am finally going to try shipo's suggestion and try Mobil 1 0W-40. I'll see if I can divine a difference between the two oils.

John:biggrin:
 
#7 ·
Run Mobil 1 0W-40 Fully Synthetic in both my 1996 and 2000 Chrysler Town & Country.

Gotta watch the filter though, might get a slight engine tick depending on the anti-drainback valve. Motocraft FL-1A!
 
#10 ·
Funny thing, when I changed the oil on our "new" 1998, I noticed that the engine side filter mount was very-VERY different from the one on our "old" 1998. I wonder if this explains why some vans seem to be very sensitive to the filter and others seem as they could care less. :confused:
 
#18 ·
My truck gets Castrol High Mileage, didn't want to switch it to full synthetic at 180k and have it seep through any old gaskets, the blend works fine and I use K&N Gold filters on it since they're not that expensive compared to Fram or Puralator.

In the van I use 5W-30 Super Tech (Walmart brand, same as Pennzoil) regular oil and the Super Tech oil filter. Never had any issues with it, change it at 3k or a little more and it runs great.

For the tranny fluid I use Dextron III, I know that's not the right stuff but since it leaks out and that's the cheapest, that's what i'm gonna use. It leaks out so the fluid is always fresh, never given me issues. Tried ATF+4 once and noticed no difference, leak or performance wise.
 
#20 ·
The dex III is why your trans is cranky. The TCM tries to learn how to shift with it so if you were to fully flush out the dex eventually your trans would probably start to work properly. Not that you probably care lol. Especially that it leaks.
 
#19 ·
On my Aries K 81, I put 225k miles on 2.8 Mitsubishi Hemi using only plain Castrol. Never smoked, never had the head off, adjusted the valves every 15K miles as per recommendations and never saw build up or crud. I have used Valvoline Maxlife for my 90 GV 3.3 and it went 150k, no engine problems or smoke at almost 20 years old. I am currently using 5W-20 in my 05 TC 3.8 and am so far satisfied, started using FL1 filters.
 
#21 ·
I really don't care, it leaks bad where the front pump seal is, I think it's got a tear in the bellhousing. I'm not about to take the tranny out to find out, too much work for this pos. It shifts a bit rough even when it's got plenty of fluid but other than that it works fine.

As far as my engine dumping gas, I drove it 180miles which the gauge reads as a full tank but it only took 12 gallons at the pump, so my gauge must be off as it has the 20 gallon tank. That's about 15mpg which isn't too bad considering I don't baby it, I love to spin the tires and race against cars me and the other driver know I have no chance against beating, just for fun. I raced against a Hemi Ram and got killed, same with a 4.0 Pacifica, but I did keep up with a mid 90's Prelude, must have been an auto. It could stand a good tune up to bump up the mileage a bit, but not sure if I want to tackle the back spark plugs, and plugs wires are expensive. Also i'm used to a distributor, I don't know how to service a coil pack.
 
#23 ·
You don't really need plug wires if the old ones come off and the van currently is not missing. You also don't have to do any service to the coil pack except make sure you keep the wires in the correct spots, which is the same as a dist.
 
#22 ·
Fram's quality has gone down a lot over the years, along with many other manufacturer's quality. That's why people knock Fram. I get lifter tick on cold starts with Fram on the '97 Ram 5.9 AND my '97 T&C 3.8. Wix I don't. Thats what goes on the truck and what I used to put on the van until I switched to Mobil 1 High Mileage.

As for the synthetic. I have a 1997 Town & Country with the 3.8L. I swapped to Mobile 1 10w-30 High Mileage and a Mobil 1 oil filter at around 135,000 miles. The first run on synthetic I changed the oil at 5,000miles, just in case it did some heavy duty cleaning of my engine. Now I am on the first 7500 mile run. It doesn't leak at seals or anything. The High Mileage has seal conditioners in it. It does great from what I can tell. No lifter tick on startup with that filter. That being said, the 3.8 was upgraded a few different ways in '98, the valve covers are different, and has higher compression as well. Could be one of those things that changed the lifter tick. You have a '96 though and 218,000 miles so you would be more prone to a cold start tick with certain filters, I would think.

I'm just telling you my personal experience with my '97 and the filters I've used. I did try the Motorcraft FL1A and it didn't tick but I decided if I'm going to run Mobil 1 synthetic for 7500 miles, I'd rather have a good Mobil 1 filter that is made specifically for synthetic oil and long oil change intervals.
 
#24 ·
That being said, the 3.8 was upgraded a few different ways in '98, the valve covers are different, and has higher compression as well.
Our former 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 was a June 1998 build and it definitely had the lifter tick following a cold start with most oil filters on the market. Not so the FL-1A. :)
 
#25 ·
I think I will pick up a jug of Mobil 1 0w-40 from Walmart this weekend, and once the weather get's warmer I'll change the oil. I have four purolator oil filters already so I will just use those. Do they have the anti-drain back valve?
 
#36 ·
I think almost all of their engines are pretty damn good in recent years. They get excellent fuel mileage out of larger VERY powerful engines. They also last forever and their transmissions are also pretty good. I'm not saying that the pre 2000's should be included in this. They started their drivetrains on the right track with the introduction of the LS engines.
 
#37 · (Edited)
There's nothing wrong with a Chevy V8, at all. I can't say the same for some of their V6's or I4's...mainly I4's. :lol: The 3800 is a very good engine though. Very tough/bulletproof. Their transmissions. Well that's a hit and miss with my experience. My oldsmobile had 196,000 miles on it when it hit the junk yard, the transmission still shifted just fine but I had to drive in 3 instead of D as it would do some crazy stuff. My friend's '05 Malibu V6's tranny was out in 2008, with 80k miles on it, not to mention the electric power steering. His transmission was mildy based off the original 4t60-e that was in my olds, supposed to be improved.
 
#40 ·
The Cobalt SS Ecotec is a 4 cylinder...turbo'd. The Focus is too, I'm sure.

I was talking more about some quad's and a certain 2.2 OHV. :lol:
 
#42 ·
The focus RS is indeed a turboed I4 like the cobalt ss. There was a bit on it on Top Gear. The thing looked like it stuck to the ground like glue even lifting the inside rear wheel on a few turns.
 
#43 ·
Isnt it sad that people are lusting over GM and Fords with small 4 cylinder turbo engines,when Chrysler itself was the king of the turbo 4s 20+ years ago? I would far rather see people wishing they could own a new (or late model used) Turbo Daytona FWD in place of any GM 4 wheeled conveyance.
I've said it before and will say it again,Chrysler's heyday was their 1982-1987 era,they have since blew it,at least on small cars.
I would hope new Chrysler savior Sergio Marchionne would become very well versed on the 1980s,and the magical stuff the then-New Chrysler Corporation was bringing to market.Economical basic transportation,high mileage,luxury,performance,excellent handling...all in a single lineup.And all within reach of the majority of the buying public.Todays Honda ricer-tuners,and screaming yellow Cobalt SS yuppies have no idea what kind of things Iacocca and Shelby were spitting out all those decades ago.
 
#45 ·
I agree. I also thing that a daytona turbo would probably outlast a cobalt ss of today from new. All you have to do is a little bit of youtube'ing and you'll see that those cars are a little under rated because of their age and era, when today they are still very capable of whooping cars of this era.
 
#44 ·
IMO the k cars were rusty piles that would be good for a few years and were throwaway cars. Those 80's turbo'd engines have absolutely nothing on the new ones with better internals and tuning.

I wouldn't call the 175hp that the turbo daytona had anything special. Especially running 12psi.
 
#46 ·
As far as GM engines and transmissions go, look at my signature. That 4.3 V6 is an excellent engine. It should be, seeing how it is just a 350 with 2 cylinder's cut off. I can't complain with the transmission either.
 
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