Car Shakes when driving



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Thread: Car Shakes when driving

  1. #21
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    Guess what ?

    My van recently started with a similar problem. Steering wheel shaking - upto an inch of movement - at speeds upto about 35mph, after that it calms down until barely noticable.

    Suspecting a wheel bearing or driveshaft, and having 3 inches of solid ice on my driveway, I took it to a friends vehicle testing station.

    Put it up on the hoist, wheels off the ground, and he inspected everything but found nothing at all wrong mechanically.

    Then he started spinning the wheels. Even with 5mm of tread on it, the left side front tyre is history !
    There is no visible damage at all, but when he placed a bar across the tread and spun the wheel you could see that the tyre is no longer round !

    Tomorrow I get 2 new tyres for the front.


    P.S. If you think a driveshaft is worn, drive down a quiet piece of road and slip the transmission in to neutral. If the van is still shaking, it's unlikely to be the driveshaft.
    '97 Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3 LE (UK Model) , 167,000 miles. Dual Fuel Petrol/LPG. Tow Pack.
    Now sold. New owner is using as a project ! Replaced by a 2000 Nissan Primera 2.0L Sport+

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  3. #22
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    thanks for all the recs. Do i need to remove the caliper and rotor to do the work? I'm guessing i could just knock the axle out without it, but the haynes says to do it. I'm looking to remove the least amount of rusted bolts. I'll try and post a pic for you guys to see how badly they are rusted.
    96 Town and Country LXi
    '01 Honda S2000 with boost (448whp 302ft/lbs on pump, 562whp 416ft/lbs on Q16)

  4. #23
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    Yes the caliper and rotor need to be moved out of the way. Don't need to undo the brake hose, just tie the caliper up and out of the way and never let it hang from the hose.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

  5. #24
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    You need to remove the caliper for the repair yes, but more importantly, it gives you the chance to inspet the caliper bolts a slide guides. These fail you can be in a world of danger. I understand why you don't want to mess with to many bolts, but on these components it is best to inspect all hardware for faults. I have seen severe damage resulting in busted hardware.

    You want it road worthy I understand this, but do us all a favor and please take the proper steps in these repairs. For one, your life depends on it and also it could result in even more expensive damage down the road.

  6. #25
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    I have a 96 that did the same thing at 203k miles,but I drove it about 100 miles back home. Wheel felt fine only having a slight clink turning but after removing 9 spindle bearings fell onto the groung. Forteen years and it all come apart with little effort. Got 2 spindle bearings and new cv's off ebay for $200. Had to replace tranny 20k later and it'r ready for another 200k.
    The rear plugs are easy to replace from the bottom. Follow the exhaust pipe and they are within an arms reach.

  7. #26
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    Tires are Old, Mismatched and Have Rot

    So RadioPrune

    If I'm not mistaken the CV Joints on your vehicle are not the only thing you'll
    need to address really soon.

    1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.8L LE FWD
    Everything's Working - No Drippin' or Burnin'
    430,000 Kilometers - 268,750 Miles

    1989 Voyager 2.5 liter Turbo-Automatic (deceased in a freeway spill 2006)
    1987 Voyager 2.2 liter 5-Speed Manual (Burgundy Red - very clean)

  8. #27
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    Unfortunately you may need a new hub too when you do it. The hubs fall apart when you remove the axle nut because while the assembly looks like a solid piece when new, the axle nut is really what holds the bearing together. You can put it all back together IF you don't loose any of the ball bearings and don't get dirt on them. Could also maybe throw a bit of new wheel bearing grease in them if you have any.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

    '69 GTO drop top
    www.facebook.com/people/Andy-Greif/1410438927

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDevilIKnow View Post
    So RadioPrune

    If I'm not mistaken the CV Joints on your vehicle are not the only thing you'll
    need to address really soon.
    yes, that is the next expenditure...
    96 Town and Country LXi
    '01 Honda S2000 with boost (448whp 302ft/lbs on pump, 562whp 416ft/lbs on Q16)

  10. #29
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    OK, so i wasn't able to change out the axle because i didn't have the right sized ratchet attachment for axle nut. For some reason i thought it was the same size as the one for my honda... Anway, the reason i say this is because the shaking has decreased ALOT compared to how it was before i gave it a major overhaul. This overhaul included:
    New Alternator
    New A/C Compressor/ Dryer/ seals/ line from condenser to compressor (compressor had seized and bearings on flywheel were making a loud noise)
    new oil pan seal/ oil change/ filter
    Transmission gasket/ oil filter/ flush
    Valve cover seals
    Spark Plugs/ wires/ gapped to .050
    new pulley on tensioner
    windshield wiper pump
    new intake plenum gasket and cleaned out plenum and IACV

    The car still shakes a bit from 35-50, but the severity has decreased alot.
    96 Town and Country LXi
    '01 Honda S2000 with boost (448whp 302ft/lbs on pump, 562whp 416ft/lbs on Q16)

  11. #30
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    I got my van last Wednesday. I have an issue like this and had it diagnosed. Found a good repair shop and they were willing to take it up on the lift and look it over, at no charge.

    My van seems to shake a bit from 0-45mph, and the faster it goes, the less shaking there is. It doesn't sound as bad as the shake in your van is. I get a noise from the right front wheel and what feels like some shimmy in the steering wheel, not really measurable, maybe half an inch at the most. And my steering wheel has to be c ocked to the left a little bit in order to drive the van straight.

    I couldn't tell from the noise whether it was a motor mount or a front end issue (and I still suspect one of the motor mounts might be bad, because the noise seems to get worse during acceleration.) Its only because of the off-center steering wheel that I investigated the front end first.

    First thing the shop noticed is the right rear tire - one of the better looking ones - had a bad separation, and said that should be my first priority.

    Next was that the front right tie rod is loose. Suggested taking care of the tie rod and getting an alignment immediately after. Its on the calendar for mid-March. The estimate for the repair isn't too bad.

    Called everywhere to find a tire (I'm on a low budget here, too.) No one had 14's. Found a yard that had one in north Toledo, started driving there down the city streets (to avoid driving at highway speeds), and on the way I found the mother lode of used tires... an old Shell station now painted blue and stocked to the ceiling with tires of all sizes, in neatly marked piles. For $30 I got a really decent tire, mounted, and drove home feeling much safer. I couldn't believe how bad the old one looked once it was off. Between the middle two belts, across the horizontal surface where the tire hits the road, there was literally a big tear. If you've never seen a separated tire, its something to see.

    Tires are pretty damn strong I guess, because I can't believe that tire made it the 60 miles I've driven the van from the time it was purchased until I got the replacement tire.

    Most of our Ohio shops seem willing to take ten minutes to diagnose front end work for free, so, to me it was worth my time to have that done, just so I know. I need the tie rod to hold out for about 2 more weeks till I can afford to get the repair done, but since it isn't shaking too bad, I think it'll hold.

    Good luck with yours, whatever it is.
    Last edited by northernsand; 02-27-2010 at 09:06 PM.

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