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Help! Can't disable vtss alarm!

33K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  mistypotato 
#1 ·
Hi,
Weird thing happened. Battery went flat by itself - don't know why - maybe a light left on?
Anyway, I recharged the battery, but now I can't get the alarm to turn off - it is the factory installed VTSS alarm. I press the button, tried the key in the door lock etc, but it won't disarm!
Could it have lost it's alarm coding or something. And if so, how do I reprogram it when both keyfobs are not functioning with it? (Both worked perfectly up until yesterday).

Any ideas gratefully received,

"desperate"
Andrew
 
#2 ·
hi mate dont know if this will work on your van, but disconect the battery and leave for about ten minuites, re-connect and try again. (good luck).:thumb:
 
#3 ·
I tryed, no real way to disable it. Try using the key in the driver door and holding it in the unlock for a second. That should unlock all doors and disable it until you hit lock again. Thats what we were doing, seem to work.
 
#4 ·
Thanks

Thanks people, but these suggestions I have already tried, and with no success.
But thanks anyhow for taking the time to reply!
Any other suggestions?
 
#5 ·
How to turn off alarm if no programmed remote?

Hi again,
I'm trying to use Daveh's instructions for programming remotes, but he clearly says "Close all doors insuring alarm is DISABLED (If appl.)
Well yes, I do have the factory VTSS alarm on my car, but BOTH key fobs seem to have lost contact with the system, due to me stupidly reinstalling the car battery in reverse!!!!:cry:
When I crank the ignition, the engine starts normally, but then shuts down after a few seconds, as the alarm has not been disarmed. I've tried to reprogram the remotes (I have two) but they don't seem to be responding to Daveh's programming advice (which involves grounding the program enable wire from the RKE Module.)
What have I done?
Is there another way of perhaps disabling the VTSS alarm?
Any suggestions gratefully received!

We really want to use the car!

Hope someone can help, you've been great before.
 
#6 ·
Not sure what to do

Forgot to say I reconnected the battery the correct way around of course! and tried again, but the alarm just doesn't want to disarm.
Is there some way I can "reset" the alarm or something?
 
#7 ·
When you hook a battery up backwards you can fry some things. Thinks like PCM's and BCM's. The alarm system and fobs(i believe) are all in the BCM. Maybe you shorted a circuit in the BCM. A friend hooked up his battery backwards on his Ford Ranger. The horn started honking and some other random things. After that the gauges quit, the horn quit, the radio quit, and the charging system no longer charged the battery...and that was after it was hooked up properly.
 
#8 ·
Fried the BCM?

If I've fried the BCM or PCM, what would other symptoms be? The car still starts up & runs for a few seconds, the dash lights come on with the ignition key, etc.

Is there a specific place where the BCM connects to the VTSS? Can I access the BCM via the connector below the dash maybe?

Is there a self-test I can run somehow, that would tell me more?

Or is there a way of turning the alarm off that I don't know about? I have not yet tried unlocking the rear hatch with the key - is that a possible solution?

Do I need to get into a door & check to see if the switch on the lock is working?

Thanks again,
Andrew
 
#9 ·
If I've fried the BCM or PCM, what would other symptoms be? The car still starts up & runs for a few seconds, the dash lights come on with the ignition key, etc.

Is there a specific place where the BCM connects to the VTSS? Can I access the BCM via the connector below the dash maybe?

Is there a self-test I can run somehow, that would tell me more?

Or is there a way of turning the alarm off that I don't know about? I have not yet tried unlocking the rear hatch with the key - is that a possible solution?

Do I need to get into a door & check to see if the switch on the lock is working?

Thanks again,
Andrew

The alarm system is basically just a program in the BCM, as far as I know there is no seperate "alarm" box. Get under your hood and find the fuses by the battery. Take out the fuse that says Memory. It will be at the top of the fuse block, pretty much seperate from the others. It is a red 10A fuse. Leave it out for about 15 minutes or so. Then (what I always did just to be sure) un hook the battery for about 10 minutes. Then hook the battery back up and put the fuse back in. See if that helps. Pulling the Memory (IOD) fuse will reset the BCM.
 
#10 · (Edited)
...or pull the IOD fuse and leave it out and see what happens. You may lose the cluster and various accessories and hopefully the VTSS but it may let it work enough to get it to a shop. Not sure it will start or keep running though. If no physical harm was done to the BCM it may have just scrambled it's programming. Reloading the software may help. If you haven't yet you might try connecting the required scanner and check for "Body" or "Network" codes. They have a "B" or "U" prefix instead of the usual "P". This may reveal BCM and data bus codes. You'll likely have to have the dealer do all of this. Doubtfull, but have you looked at the door switches? May have toasted one.
 
#12 ·
Fixed it!

Thankyou, RIP, for your thoughts & excellent advice!
It turns out the IOD (Ignition Off-Draw) fuse was blown!
When I hooked up the battery the wrong way round it must have blown the fuse.
I only noticed this when I pulled the fuse to take power off the BCM/PCM computers. Thank goodness I had a close look at the fuse - it has a very small gap where it blew, only visible when you hold it up close.
I replaced the fuse & immediately everything that was not working was functional again!
The motor starts & keeps running!
The radio works,
The interior lights work normally,
And at last, the remote doorlocks are functioning normally.
Halleluia!
So what I've learned from the last 5 days is - don't accidentally connect your battery up the wrong way (if it's dark, get a light!)
And always check the IOD fuse first!

I'm just so glad I haven't killed it.....:biggrin:
 
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#14 ·
Thankyou, RIP, for your thoughts & excellent advice!
It turns out the IOD (Ignition Off-Draw) fuse was blown!
When I hooked up the battery the wrong way round it must have blown the fuse.
I only noticed this when I pulled the fuse to take power off the BCM/PCM computers. Thank goodness I had a close look at the fuse - it has a very small gap where it blew, only visible when you hold it up close.
I replaced the fuse & immediately everything that was not working was functional again!
The motor starts & keeps running!
The radio works,
The interior lights work normally,
And at last, the remote doorlocks are functioning normally.
Halleluia!
So what I've learned from the last 5 days is - don't accidentally connect your battery up the wrong way (if it's dark, get a light!)
And always check the IOD fuse first!

I'm just so glad I haven't killed it.....:biggrin:
That's great. Glad I suggested the IOD/Memory fuse eh? :lol:
 
#13 ·
Excellent documentation

By the way, RIP, that is excellent documentation on the VTSS. What manual is that from?
Andrew
 
#18 · (Edited)
By the way, RIP, that is excellent documentation on the VTSS. What manual is that from?
Andrew
First: Happy to hear sideburns and I were able to help. I've got to admitt that's the first VTSS problem I've helped on. Second: Not sure and it doesn't look like a factory manual. I just googled "Chrysler VTSS system" (to give me a clue) and this hit showed up from justanswer.com.

Oh and thanks for showing us what happens when the IOD fuse blows though I'm sure you wished you didn't have to. Gotta thank your lucky stars the IOD fuse did it's job.
 
#15 ·
Thankyou!

Thanks Sideburns,
My mistake was that I was pulling the IOD fuse - but not checking it to make sure it was still intact! (dumb eh?) :blink:

When I finally looked at it, I discovered the problem..

Thanks again to all of you for your great support!
 
#22 ·
I am having a similar problem with a 2000 Town and Country AWD LXi with 126K. Had done some work including changing fuel filter. Still having trouble starting - sounded starved for fuel- but once started would run strongly. Checked battery and it was bad- thought might be affecting other systems. Took it out and put in a new one- now Auto shut off relay just starts clicking like crazy and the car will not turn over at all. I've tried unlocking and locking all the doors and tailgate but no change. Disconnected battery, let it sit, no change. Pulled out and put back relay- no change. I have a diagnostic coder- basic model- and will try checking for codes. Otherwise will try finding the memory fuse and removing as sideburns2009 suggests.
 
#23 ·
Alarm causing car not to start - auto shut off relay clicking

2000 Town and Country LXi AWD 3.8 L . Alarm can't be reset and won't let car start. Tried removing the memory fuse and reinserting- still did not start. I took a diagnostic code reader we have and plugged it in to clear any codes. No codes, but I was able to get the car started when the reader was plugged in . However when unplugged, car immediately died. Started again when code reader plugged back in- but after about 4 minutes, car died again- sounded like lack of fuel to me. Tried again- could not start. Could alarm be shutting the fuel pump down? Any thoughts on how to correct ?
Thanks !
 
#24 ·
2000 Town and Country LXi AWD 3.8 L . Alarm can't be reset and won't let car start. Tried removing the memory fuse and reinserting- still did not start. I took a diagnostic code reader we have and plugged it in to clear any codes. No codes, but I was able to get the car started when the reader was plugged in . However when unplugged, car immediately died. Started again when code reader plugged back in- but after about 4 minutes, car died again- sounded like lack of fuel to me. Tried again- could not start. Could alarm be shutting the fuel pump down? Any thoughts on how to correct ?
Thanks !
I had this problem. After a lot of research, it turned out (in my case, yours may vary), to be the BCM itself. You can sometimes verify this by COMPLETELY removing the BCM and then reconnecting it. In the early stages, the car will sometimes work again (the alarm will function properly) for a while. But the problem will return.

I completely resolved this aggravating issue by going to the junk yard and finding another Caravan with the same amenities as mine (electric door locks, power windows, rear defrost etc) and then obtained BOTH the BCM AND PCM from that vehicle.

Note that the VIN will not match your vehicle AND the mileage will change to whatever the junkyard vehicle mileage was.

However, other than spending quite a bit at the dealership, this was the only way to resolve the issue.
I haven't had the problem again or since in several years now.

You can also ELIMINATE the alarm system completely if you choose a BCM AND PCM from a vehicle with no alarm system.

You CANNOT simply replace the BCM. It will not run because the BCM and PCM check each other for matching VIN numbers. You MUST replace them both from a matching VIN set.

Please note that Door lock key position switches and door open plunger and contact switches can also cause the alarm to malfunction. Again, in MY case it WAS the BCM.
(I replaced ALL the sensors and switches and the problem persisted)

Good Luck,
MistyPotato
 
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