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Transmission Fluid Change

21K views 72 replies 18 participants last post by  el conquistador 
#1 ·
Does anyone know of a link that has transmission fluid change pics for a 3rd generation?

I have searched on here and everything is a written procedure. I also have the service manual, but I prefer a writeup.

I see a writeup for the 4th generation on here, but I am not sure if it is the same.

Just asking because I have never done this before. I have gone quite far in other areas though.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
since the transmissions are the same from gen1, gen2, gen3, gen4, seems you could use the same proceedures.

Here's the Cliff's notes version:

Option 1
drain fluid by removing pan
remove filter
install new filter
install pan
fill to correct level

Option 2.
Drive to service station,
wait,
pay,
drive home
 
#3 ·
since the transmissions are the same from gen1, gen2, gen3, gen4, seems you could use the same proceedures.

Here's the Cliff's notes version:

Option 1
drain fluid by removing pan
remove filter
install new filter
install pan
fill to correct level
It seems like a pretty intimidating job, but it's really straight foreward. It seriously is just that easy. Important notes:
1. Use a large drain pan. (I used a rubbermaid container)
2. Tighten the pan bolts in a staggered pattern (do not overtighten)
3. Make sure you use the correct fluid (ATF+4)
 
#4 ·
Thanks all...and I like the humor too!

I recall reading something about an O-ring too. That is freaking me out!

Lol
 
#5 ·
ya the 1st time my gf wanted me to use an 0-ring i freakd out too now i like using em; but really whats got u freaked? d u no what an 0-ring is?
 
#7 ·
I assume the O-ring will be for the filter. There should be one in the box with the new filter when you get it. Remember to coat the O-ring in trans fluid before fitting it.
 
#9 ·
Thanks all!

This was alot easier than I had anticipated. I let it drain for a few hrs by removing most of the bolts and incrementally letting fluid out into a large pan with a tarp underneath. My old filter had no o-ring which is kind of interesting...maybe it flew off in the drain pan.

Thank you very much for your assistance once again!
 
#11 ·
There should have been an O ring SOMEWHERE. If it wasn't on the filter than it may have still been in the valve body of the trans. If you left it there and jammed in another filter you'll be kissing that trans goodbye in short order. Hopefully too you bought a GOOD filter and used either Mopar sealant or Mopar steel gasket. If ANY of these conditions does not add up take it down again and do it right before your trans grenades
 
#10 ·
Yeah the first time I did the transmission fluid change myself I kicked myself for paying the dealer to do it all those years. It really is very straight forward and easy. And I agree with putting in a drain plug. I have a plan of doing that this time.
 
#13 ·
I change my fluid and filter every 25,000 to 30,000 miles.
 
#15 ·
Yes, I checked it running with the dipstick being hot as heck. It was definitely too low at 6 quarts and in retrospect, I think that I overfilled it slightly at 7 quarts...but it was definitely too low at 6 quarts.

I have an 8 quart drain pan and it was almost full. I let the pan drain for about 3 hrs before I did the change. The aftermarket tranny cooler looks like it would hold at least 2 quarts.

If I really did overfill it (which I seriously doubt), is my tranny likely to grenade?
 
#16 ·
Sorry to say, but I seriously suspect you overfilled your transmission. As others have said, there is no way you should be able put in more than four quarts of ATF+4 following a pan drop and filter change without the dipstick showing the fluid level in your transmission being too high.
 
#17 ·
Well I hope that you are wrong. I checked the fluid every half quart starting from the 4th quart that I put in.

I don't see why a large aftermarket transmission cooler wouldn't make up the extra 2 quarts?

Also, why would the 8 quart pan be nearly full of ATF if that is the case? It was nearly overflowing.

So if you are all right, then is my transmission ready to grenade?
 
#21 ·
As I said the 07 held more than 4 quarts, looking in the 5th quart, it didn't even hold half of it.

What I want to know is if you have the van facing downhill or uphill will it dump more or less depending on direction? I really don't know and was wondering if someone else did. Or maybe leaning from one side to the other, seeing how these transmissions are sideways on the FWD.
 
#22 ·
I wonder if the jasper tranny would have the exact same capacity as every other chrysler tranny?

I am not trying to be better than anyone else, just a question.
 
#23 ·
I throw the gaskets that come with the filters away and just use silicon. It's a bit more of a PITA on the next change, but you won't leak a drop in between oil changes! (works for the engine oil pan also)
 
#25 ·
Been a mechanic for over 25 years, tranny pan gaskets that have a fluid level above them when the vehicle is at rest eventually leak, period. Silicon does not.
If you put on enough silicon that the excess falls off and manages to plug a filter the size of a tranny filter, you should not be allowed to touch tools.:lol:
 
#26 ·
I saw one Dodge Neon with seized engine. Cause - an oil suction pipe got restricted with silicone pieces.
I don't like to use silicone, if I have a normal gasket. In the cooling system ok, but not in something, that have a touch with any oil. Even so some of european and japaneese cars has no gaskets in pans, valve covers ect.
 
#30 ·
Well what do you suggest? Thanks for being so helpful! :nut:
 
#28 ·
I wouldn't worry too much about overfiling it

as long as you are sure you checked it properly, like say after a 20 mile trip, while the engine is idleing, as the fans kick on, it don't get much hoter than that, on average here most members, claim close to 4 qts, no more, I did mine twice recently once after it sat for 8 months, and a week later, when it sat for a couple days, long storry, both times I got 5.5 qts out, took the same to properly refill, diference I my van has the towing package to the best of my knowledge, it has an extra tranny cooler, small, but overall, I used almoast 2 qts more than average, looking inside the radiator cap looks like that cooler couls hold a bit, maybe it is the way I do it it siphoned out where most members, did not, maybe the larger coolers, botom line if you checked it, properly and got good eyes, to me it was a bit hard to see it, and I have good eyes, 5.5 qts filled it to the top of the hot, just shy of the last hole, and I checked it several times, even measured what I got out, add a larger cooler to the situation, you need 6.5qts, maybe you overfilled half, disconect the return line and drain it, or leave it sience you are leaking allready, oh yes I do vote for the black rtv, had a **** of a time getng it off the second time, had all the bolts loose and it would not leak, tried prying it with a screw driver, no luck, took a hammer and a very sharp chissel to get it started, this is the first tranny I did without a filter, I asked the dealer they do not cary one. it was made for rtv
 
#29 ·
i dont get all the excitement bout changin trans fluid i didnt get nearly such a woodie when i put a 3.0 and 5speed in my van whats the bfd? i bet jasper has a secret part in thier tranny vs chrys thats y u have a more capacity
 
#35 ·
I won't argue with you idiot. Thank you for the warning in your signature! :biggrin:
 
#32 ·
Think about this, the bolts won't tighten because the threads are stripped out--correct? So that means the hole is bigger. Now tell me how running a tap thru a hole that is too big will fix the stripped hole? Realize a tap is the same diameter as the bolt, so how is it going to cut new threads? Maybe you are getting a magic tap and die set that makes new threads.

Also, several of the bolt holes are 'blind' holes and you need a special bottoming tap, a regular tap won't cut threads deep enough.

I suggest you go to your auto parts store and ask them what they should sell you to fix your problem. Some suggested terms may include Helicoil, redithread, thread inserts just to name a few.
 
#34 ·
Alright, thank you for taking the time to explain. It makes sense.
 
#38 ·
Let's calm down and stop the name calling. Seems the more insecure someone is, the more they have to point out flaws of others.

Why does the simplest job turn into a freaked out deal. Drop pan, take out filter, install new filter (with o-ring that freaks out some people), install pan with RTV ultra black or grey. (never use blue) or use Right Stuff. Gaskets are ok but not really needed. fill fluid as needed using ONLY ATF+4 (which I never use but everyone swears by it, but I refuse to jump on the bandwagon).

Once the job is done, get your rocks off that you did such a great job. Let everyone know how great and wonderful you are when doing this difficult task.
 
#40 ·
Drop pan, take out filter, install new filter (with o-ring that freaks out some people), install pan with RTV ultra black or grey. (never use blue) or use Right Stuff.
.
Isn't there a special Chrysler (silicone?) gasket available for the tranny pan that can be reused a number of times without any sealant. I think there was a TSB about it at some point.
 
#39 ·
Yeh, we could be a little more friendly, objective and respectful here. Life's too short.

Working under a vehicle on your back is probably the worst part of it. Certainly beats replacing pads and rotors outside on a 10 degree F night or replacing drum brakes outside during a snow storm (hard to keep track of the parts :lol:).

The Haynes Manual covers the procedure very well, including how to break the pan loose.

As to the holes being stripped of threads, sometimes the bolts are short and there is threaded hole left. Some on here have taken advantage of that by using longer bolts. Otherwise, a little rebuilding with helicoils or whatever works.
 
#41 ·
Yes but I'm too cheap to spend the money. RTV ultra black is the only thing I use. I buy it in caulk tube form for $10 a tube. IDK why everyone gets all freaked out about changing trans fluid. On my own vehicles I never change the fluid. Our current family van have 280,000 miles. We put on over 140,000 and I haven't changed the fluid yet and it does have the original trans, I knew the original owner. I also have an intrepid that I bought with a bad trans @120,000. it now has 210,000 and I never changed the fluid plus I didn't use ATF+4 either.
 
#45 ·
280k on an original trans is pretty amazing no matter what reputation it has.

I do wonder if you recommend changing the fluid ever if the vehicle is used in a severe service environment? I use my van to haul heavy loads frequently. Also even just filling it with 7 20 year olds can get it pretty heavy.

I believe that you have said that you use BMW synthetic fluid? May I ask how did you come about using this fluid?
 
#46 ·
Enough of the criticism of spelling, wrenching, etc.
There is no need to be nasty to one another.

The one thing about using a gasket with a pan meant for black rtv is that the bolts may end up too short. That is what I am suspecting happened to you.

On my '94 Voyager and on my Concorde, I used the black rtv with no issues. It even said Mopar on the tube (probably added $10 to the price).
I can't remember how much fluid either of those took. If your convertor drains back, 6-7 quarts makes some sense.
My Oldsmobubble took 7 quarts on it's refill, but it definitely drains back from the convertor and I took full advantage of that by putting it on ramps the night before so that it would be good to go in the morning.
 
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