Timing belt change



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Thread: Timing belt change

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    2


    Question Timing belt change

    Hi

    Is there any info on timing belt changes for the 2.8CRD engine around, something like how to do it yourself?

    I have a 2008 2.8CRD

    Thanks,

    Thomasx

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  3. #2
    Join Date
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    None on this side of the pond. I googled this:

    https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...rd+timing+belt
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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    10


    Hi Thomasx
    I have a 25th anniversary 2.8 CRD with 70K the service book states 125K however I will change at 80K. The last one I had was a 2004 recommended 80k which I bought with 132K to discover the belt had not been done.
    I am not sure why the interval has moved out maybe better materials? The first Diesels used in the GV in europe were Italian with chain drive, the 2.5/2.8 from 2003 ish onward is a Mercedes unit the old adage I feel that 80 k is probably best.
    The 2.8 is a big heavy lump, and with the water pump sitting behind the cambelt so it makes sense to change that also otherwise you just know it will leak after the cambelt is changed.
    I would say garage job unless you have hoist and well stocked garage, it is probably quicker to drop the engine out and do it that way, the garage that did my 2003 said that getting to the water pump was a nightmare as there is not much room. But as Clint used to say "Do you feel lucky"

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  6. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    13


    Never had to change the belt on a CRD mini van, however, we did one on our ’05 Jeep Liberty CRD that had the 2.8L engine in it at right around 100k miles. Honestly, it was a bitch to do IMO. However, I didn't want to pay the dealer to do it, mainly because I was younger and thought I knew everything, and well, guess my time wasn't worth as much then. Its not really all that difficult if you have the proper tools and a place to do it. It will take you and a buddy a few hours and a case of beer to finish the job and a few tools you won't likely find out your local auto parts store. Mainly you'll need to way to lock the cams in place so they don't move and be sure to paint the orientation of anything that turns so it came be put back in the same location upon reassembly of the engine.

    Seems to me we replaced not only the belt, but the belt tensioner, idler pully, water pump, thermastate and housing, includng all the gasets associated with said parts and the serpentine belt all at the same time. Pretty much the same rule applied to the VW TDIs.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to MoparRoss For This Useful Post:

    JC1(02-16-2017)

  8. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    10


    Only thing I can add is that Wrangler may have more room to work with, Van is tight for Water pump.

  9. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Oshawa, Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacKellaich View Post
    Only thing I can add is that Wrangler may have more room to work with, Van is tight for Water pump.
    I don't know about accessing the W/P on these vans, but sometimes you need to loosen some motor mounts and then jack up or lower the motor with a jack underneath to make accessing some parts easier.

    There has to be some YouTube videos out there.
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  10. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2


    I have found some info on youtube on earlier models, but not from the 2008 onwards.

    McKellaich, I know from experience I am always unlucky, Murphy obviously lives on my attic or something However I do have a hoist and a well equipped garage, so in the end I usually beat Murphy anyway

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to thomasx For This Useful Post:

    JC1(02-18-2017)

  12. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    10


    Hi Thomasx there is really little difference between the models with regard to access for the CRD engine. Good Luck

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