Transmission cooler leak - does it really require $1000 repair?



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Thread: Transmission cooler leak - does it really require $1000 repair?

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbreed520 View Post
    Caravaner how did you make out on this repair, I am having the same problem and looking into getting a seperate trans cooler and bypassing the ac/condenser that is on my 05. To completely bypass the original into the trans cooler would you just detach the two metal lines going into the ac condenser and hook each to the new trans cooler and be done? I have been looking at it on the van and that seems to be the only feasible way to bypass the old system completely.
    Hi. The bypass worked out well for me. The separate cooler mounts on the front of the existing cooler/condenser attached with the cable ties.
    Although I was able to get the new cooler in without taking the entire front bumper off as shown in that video, I wouldn't recommend it. I would recommend doing the entire procedure as shown in the video, giving yourself the most elbow room to do the job. It would have been more comfortable had I done that, and worth the extra time.

    The tranny lines that you disconnect from the old cooler are rubber in some places and metal in others. They look metal where they are attached to the cooler, where you disconnect and attach the lines to the new cooler. I ended up using the old attachments to plug the holes, crimping them down, just to keep dirt and dust out. But no fluid will come out of those holes.

    I did this bypass 18 months ago and everything still works fine. At the time I did the procedure, I wanted to see what the tranny fluid temps were. According to the app, based on the computer information, the temps are lower than before. The new cooler looks very small when you take it out of the box and install it. But it apparently cools just fine.

    Overall an easy bypass that I would highly recommend if the AC is working fine at the time of the cooler leak.

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  3. #52
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    Awesome thanks for the info i will be doing the job next weekend. Which trans cooler did you go with?

  4. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbreed520 View Post
    Awesome thanks for the info i will be doing the job next weekend. Which trans cooler did you go with?
    I used the Hayden.
    Attached Images

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  6. #54
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    I have a 2002 TC Limited with 3.8 engine. There is no trans cooler in the radiator. It is a separate unit sandwiched between the AC condenser and the radiator. Have you tried taking the ground cable loose from the car's battery? That might reboot the trans controller. Here's a link for transcooler: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...rds=HAYDEN+676 It's a bit tedious to replace, but not technically difficult.

  7. #55
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    Chrysler Town and Country transmission cooler

    Quote Originally Posted by el conquistador View Post
    first your ac has nothing to do with your trans in any way shape or form.

    There has been many cases of the trans cooler in the radiator failing. it's easy to tell. remove radiator cap and if you see transmission fluid in the coolant. since oil floats on water, it will show up at the radiator cap. if this is not apparent then skip all this discussion.

    It is very common for a seal failure to occur on causing your problem. I've rebuilt a lot of transmissions with this exact symptom (always start with verifying fluid level, correct and clean filter). if these are ok, then it's internal trans time.
    The transmission cooler is a separate unit. It is between the AC condenser and the radiator.

  8. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by mc2517 View Post
    The transmission cooler is a separate unit. It is between the AC condenser and the radiator.
    Why bring up a comment posted over 7 years ago, by a member who was banned over 7 years ago and that it was posted on a different thread on a different Gen. section?

    Quote Originally Posted by el conquistador View Post
    ---- BANNED MEMBER-----







    2012 Town & Country
    2006 Dodge Grand Caravan. 317,000 + Miles. -SOLD-
    Current Minivans I own.
    LEVY --UNKNOWN MEMBER--

  9. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caravaner2 View Post
    Hi. The bypass worked out well for me. The separate cooler mounts on the front of the existing cooler/condenser attached with the cable ties.
    Although I was able to get the new cooler in without taking the entire front bumper off as shown in that video, I wouldn't recommend it. I would recommend doing the entire procedure as shown in the video, giving yourself the most elbow room to do the job. It would have been more comfortable had I done that, and worth the extra time.

    The tranny lines that you disconnect from the old cooler are rubber in some places and metal in others. They look metal where they are attached to the cooler, where you disconnect and attach the lines to the new cooler. I ended up using the old attachments to plug the holes, crimping them down, just to keep dirt and dust out. But no fluid will come out of those holes.

    I did this bypass 18 months ago and everything still works fine. At the time I did the procedure, I wanted to see what the tranny fluid temps were. According to the app, based on the computer information, the temps are lower than before. The new cooler looks very small when you take it out of the box and install it. But it apparently cools just fine.

    Overall an easy bypass that I would highly recommend if the AC is working fine at the time of the cooler leak.
    Did you bypass it cutting the metal part of the line or the rubber? And what did you use to connect the hoses?

  10. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbreed520 View Post
    I did watch that video but it looks like they just added the new trans cooler into their current setup. The metal lines I am talking about are the two at the top right that he disconnects the one and cuts it to run it into the new cooler. I am assuming the top line is the intake into the ac/condenser and the bottom is the return and to just unhook both of those and attach them into the new trans cooler to bypass.
    You are correct, I had not watched the video at the time of posting that. There are in fact metal lines for the transmission cooler, strange setup. My 2002 has a separate cooler for the transmission that is sandwiched between the condenser and radiator. After reading all this junk, I'm glad it's separate, that combination unit just seems like a dumb idea all around.

  11. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbreed520 View Post
    Did you bypass it cutting the metal part of the line or the rubber? And what did you use to connect the hoses?
    As I recall I didn't cut the lines at all. They are held in place in the fittings that attach to the radiator by clips. When you remove the clips the lines detach. I then attached the new cooler to those lines with two lines of rubber hose, clamped. I also recall buying and using a line of rubber hose, which I cut in half and used to attach the lines to the new cooler. I don't recall whether the kit also came with hosing or not. I think it did, along with clamps.

  12. #60
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    This thread as mentioned is FULL of misinformation.
    There two areas that leak on the trans cooler- the rubber lines that run from the transaxle and the cooler that is sandwiched inbetween the a/c condenser and the radiator. All three are separate units Not sharing any fluids etc.
    The diagnostics required to determine which one is a little time consuming (unless you have access to a borescope) is to remove the front bumper and unbolt the three items from their respective holders. This will allow you to inspect each item.
    Spend the few $$ and buy the OE cooler lines as they will save you time skin and energ, as they are pre cut, molded shapes, and have the clamps installed with little holder clips that allow you to wiggle them into place over the fittings at the transaxle and the cooler, then you just align them and pull off the locking tabs to allow the clamps to bite the hose ends.....COOL!
    Totally easy with just a bunch of bolts and a few reusable plastic clips.
    Steps
    unscrew the upper grill screws
    Pull all the clips holding the spoiler at the bottom
    Unscrew all the wheel well screws that hold to the front bumper
    Remove headlamps
    Reach inside the inner fender thru the head lamp housings to unbolt one nut per side
    Look up in the front of each wheel well to get to the screw that holds the bumper to the alignment bracket
    Unbolt and uncoil the bumper at the front top.
    Pull loose
    If it doesn't hit you in the feet you left a screw,clip, etc attached. Go look
    Parts required
    Cooler lines OE
    Cooler OE
    If only the lines are leaking like mine, and just replace the line.

    Images during and after time spent 4 hrs on first try. Second time 1/2 as much.

    Helpful?
    Attached Images

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