Rear Hub Assmebly



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Thread: Rear Hub Assmebly

  1. #1
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    Rear Hub Assmebly

    Hi all!

    I am working on a friends 2005 Town and Country...

    The driver's side rear hub assembly is in bad shape and needs replaced. I have removed the caliper, rotor, and the 4 mounting bolts for the hub, but it won't budge. After some searching it seems as if a "special tool" is required to remove the assembly if there is substantial corrosion.

    My question is: has anyone been able to remove a hub assembly when it is stuck on this bad? Any suggestions? My next move is going to be soaking the thing in PB Blaster, then re-attaching the wheel to get more leverage.

    Will I be able to get this thing off without the tool?

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
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    I soaked the hub in penetrating fluid then use a slide hammer to take both mine off.
    Make sure when you put the new one on, put some anti seize around the hub and axle.
    2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.8 V6 64,000 miles

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    On the front of the Dodge 4x4s its the same deal. I have used an impact hammer on the bolts to get the hub moving. I place an old socket over the bolt so it doesnt get damaged, then hammer away. I have seen the front one so tight I had to remove the entire steering knuckle and place it in a press. It took 45 tons to get the bearing moving.

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    Seems like I read a warning in the Chilton Manual to not use slide hammers on that hub and that it could damage the races of the bearings. The Blaster sounds like the best answer and patience with tapping. There does appear to be such a tool. Try a rental center, Auto zone or a good friend at a shop. Try not to soak the rear inner parking brakes lining and wrap the sensor in plastic so as not to use the grease on it.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcwagner1 View Post
    Seems like I read a warning in the Chilton Manual to not use slide hammers on that hub and that it could damage the races of the bearings. The Blaster sounds like the best answer and patience with tapping. There does appear to be such a tool. Try a rental center, Auto zone or a good friend at a shop. Try not to soak the rear inner parking brakes lining and wrap the sensor in plastic so as not to use the grease on it.
    Since he is replacing the hub, damaging the bearings should not be an issue.
    2010 Honda Oddy LX - 9k miles - Land Barge
    2008 Honda Fit Sport - 31k miles - What a riot!
    1996 Toyota Land Cruiser - 292k miles - Tank
    Gone - 2001 DGC Sport 3.3L 169K

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    ditto. The bearings are shot already inside the hub you're replacing.
    Pound away!!!!!
    2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.8 V6 64,000 miles

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    Thanks for all the suggestions! I feel better knowing that it is possible to get the thing off without having to get the "special tool".

    I'm not worried about destroying the old bearing- with as much beating on it as I did the other day- it's destroyed!

  9. #8
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    Well, for what it is worth, I will quote you from the manual directly:
    This is in the Haynes Manual for rear discs on the 2005: section 10:15 point 5:
    "Remove the hub/bearing assembly from the axle (see illustration). Caution: if the hub/bearing assembly sticks in the axle, DO NOT (capitalization theirs) remove it with a slide hammer unless you intend to replace it. The manufacturer recommends the use of a special press tool to remove the hub/bearing assembly without damaging it."
    Of course, I thought you were asking for advice on how to do it right without causing damage and was unaware that you felt you had already done irreversible damage to the bearings.
    One thing I can think of that should be able to break one loose without damaging the bearing is to buy some longer bolts of the type that hold the hub on, and after allowing it to soak overnight with solvent, screw these bolts in until they fill the thread and stick out some between the head and the backing plate and then tap on the bolt heads from the back side. That would transfer the rap directly to the sticking area (hub flange) and not the bearings. Just a thought.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcwagner1 View Post
    ...Of course, I thought you were asking for advice on how to do it right without causing damage and was unaware that you felt you had already done irreversible damage to the bearings.
    The bearings had already failed- that is why I'm trying to remove the hub assembly to replace it.

    Quote Originally Posted by tcwagner1 View Post
    One thing I can think of that should be able to break one loose without damaging the bearing is to buy some longer bolts of the type that hold the hub on, and after allowing it to soak overnight with solvent, screw these bolts in until they fill the thread and stick out some between the head and the backing plate and then tap on the bolt heads from the back side. That would transfer the rap directly to the sticking area (hub flange) and not the bearings. Just a thought.
    Tried that- not enough room behind the backing plate to swing a hammer.

    Thanks for the advice!

  11. #10
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    Well, that explains everything. I wanted to put the other quote in for those who might read this post later and use it as a guide for pulling their hub. On the swinging a hammer point, you would probably only tap it, to set up vibration and let the solvent work deeper. I had a front disk on one of these that was thoroughly stuck to the hub, and PB Blaster, and patient tapping over several hours (overnight might be needed) can usually loosen stuff like this, but not always.
    For any who might read this for their particular hub removal, patience is essential if 1. you are doing this on bearings you want to reuse, 2. you don't have and can't get the proper tool, 3. you don't have the money to just go out and buy new hubs. Keep spraying and tapping. Someone might weigh in on using those "cold" sprays on the hub flange/backing plate connection. Seems like it might work without the danger of heat.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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