The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

A/C Noise

19K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  wookie0586 
#1 ·
Hello. I have a 2001 grand caravan 3.3l 90,000 miles. When the engine is running, I hear a noise coming from the air conditioner compressor. It makes the noise with the A/C off and the noise becomes a little louder when the A/C is on. It's not a continous squeal or rough sound....it's more like swish-swish-swish.... I'm thinking the A/C clutch has a build up of debris inside.

The A/C works fine but I know I've isolated it to the compressor. I'd like to replace the air conditioner clutch before I replace the compressor since the system works fine. However, I'd hate to go through all that trouble only to find out I would have been better off replacing the entire compressor assembly.

Advice please. If clutch repalcement is recommended, do you have any articles with photos?
 
#2 ·
Well I know it's not the a/c clutch now. I turned the a/c off and put the van in gear the rattling sound comes back. Must have something to do with load on the engine causing something to vibrate differently. I removed the belt and spun all pulleys with the exception of the crank. Everything sounded good except for a little bearing noise in the tensioner pulley. I replaced it but the noise is still there. Could the rattling noise be a loose timing chain?

Just to recap, it's quiet when it's idling in park (a/c off) but rattling when idling in drive (a/c off), reverse (a/c off), or park with a/c on. The noise is coming from the passenger side of the engine and it's an oscillating rattle noise. If all pulleys are quiet, it's got to be internal.
 
#4 ·
Hey Canuck -

I had the same sound from my 01 last Fall and after changing out the serentine belt, the idler pully, the tensioner, and the alternator decoupler the noise was stil there. Same sound as you are describing. A rattle when you hit the accelerator and run the engine rpms up and down in neutral, and a clunk when starting out in gear or getting off the gas at speed.
My problem turned out to be a broken flex plate and it turns out it is fairly common after 130K or so.
I have a previous post on this that may be archived.
See pics below.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Hello there,

After doing a bit of searching... There are multiple Service Bulletins that deal with the A/C compressor, as there have been several issues with this part.

I wouldn't be surprised it the compressor is on it's way out. :(

Here are a few part#'s depending on the A/C system you have..
5005442AD or 5005441AI both are in the $500.00 range if you go with OEM.


Sadly the clutch is not sold seperatly from Mopar, but a rebuild kit is...

Good Luck
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the useful info guys. However, after some more troubleshooting I think it's the alternator. I borrowed a mechanic's stethoscope and poked arouind the engine while it was idling with the a/c on. The noise is very prominent when I touch the alternator with the end of the scope. Everywhere else the noise seems like normal engine noise. The a/c compressor is very quiet and it's right underneath the alternator.

I removed the belt and spun the alternator but it spins smooth. However, when I rotate the pulley back and forth with my fingers, the decoupler within the pulley seems worn. It feels loose. I can hear the spring squeaking. Doesn't seem acceptable.

Runnin74, you implied that you replaced the decoupler. How is that accomplished? I've been doing some reading and it sounds like I have to replace the entire alternator (which is not a bad idea considering the mileage on this van).

Thanks again.
 
#6 ·
If it's flaky when you twist it manually, you most likely have found the problem. However, you may also (just for PR) wish to check your engine mounts. That may be the cause of your clunking sound. :thumb:
 
#7 ·
Thanks AzTraveller. Well I pulled the alternator out. Not as easy as the manual indicates. Here's the Haynes manual rendition:

(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Disconnect the push-in field wire connector
from back of generator.
(4) Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back
of generator.
(5) Separate B+ terminal from generator.
(6) Raise vehicle and support.
(7) Remove the right front lower splash shield.
(8) Remove accessory drive belt, refer to the Cool-ing
System section for proper procedures.
(9) Remove the lower oil dip stick tube bolt (Fig.
9).
(10) Remove wiring harness from the oil dip stick
tube
(11) Remove the 3 mounting bolts.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Remove oil dip stick tube from vehicle.
(14) Roll and remove the generator from vehicle
bracket

Here's where I had issues:

Step 3: Had difficulty sliding the red tab on the electrical connector over. I used a small screwdriver from underneath and eventually got it over. I found that the tab that you squeeze by hand at the end of the connector was broken off. So I had to use a screwdriver to pry up the lock tab.

Step 13: The dipstick wouldn't budge, it wouldn't twist, seized in place. I tried tapping it out using a wooden block but it still wouldn't budge. And yes, the bolts were out. I was going to apply heat but it's too close to critical gaskets and lines. I eventually forced the dipstick over towards the drivers side and rolled out the alternator however, this is not the gentlemans method of car repair. I'll purchase the new alternator tomorrow and install. Hopefully I can get it by the dipstick without butchering anything.

Considering posting an alternator removal thread complete with photos.
 
#8 ·
Well I purchased a Bosch alternator for $200, installed it and she purrs like a kitten.

Installation sequence:

- Note: Dipstick tube was not removed from the block however, the bolts were removed.
- Ensure battery is disconnected.
- Apply some force to the dipstick toward drivers side. Drop the alternator into the engine compartment pulley down and then roll it into position.
- Install 3 alternator bolts (15mm hex head)
- Install 2 dipstick bolts (13mm hex head)
- Install electrical connector into alternator plug. After the plug is seated, slide the red lock tab towards the back of the vehicle until a click is heard.
- Install B nut connector on alternator and install nut (13mm hex head).
- Install belt.
- Install tire.

Lessons learned:

- If the dipstick tube is seized in the block, don't sweat it. Just remove the top dipstick tube bolt and apply some force when removing/installing the alternator. Fighting to remove the dipstick tube may result in breaking it at the block.
- As you remove the alternator, bring it out of the engine compartment pulley down or you could break the plastic electrical connector on the aft side of the alternator. Same goes for installation.
- Before you remove the electrical connector from the alternator, become familiar with that style of connector. Refer to step 4 under "Instructions" within this site (you have to scroll down a bit): www.diesel-max.com/ventkitinstructions/

Hope this helps someone.
 
#10 ·
How to remove, replace or regrease the AC clutch bearing

Replacing AC pulley bearing.
How to remove, replace or regrease the AC clutch bearing, Air conditioner clutch bearing.
First of all I did have a bearing fail on one of my vehicles at 144K miles. I had an extended warranty and the dealer replace the complete AC compressor. I removed the bearing from the old compressor and it was badly damaged, missing some of the ball bearings.

2001 Town & Country AWD 177K miles. Making noise, removed serpentine belt, bearing felt dry.
I read quite a number of post on if you think the bearing is bad you should probably replace the compressor because it is about to go.
Not sure I agree with this. I had a AC bearing that was making noise. I was able to remove it from the van without removing the compressor. The numbers on the bearing are 30GBS10DTS, you can get one from Auto Zone for $45. I found it on Ebay for $25.
I didn’t replace mine, I regreased it.
This is how you remove the bearing. Follow procedure for removing the serpentine belt, Remove bolt in centre of AC clutch assembly, Figure out how to hold the outer pulley assembly while removing the bolt. Depending on the pulley assembly you may be able to borrow a tool from Auto Zone. I used a strap wrench and the bolt came out easy. I borrowed a tool to remove the outer hub but it was the wrong type. I sprayed the bolt hole with Wd40 and taped on the outer hub while spinning it, I pried on both sides and it started to come off.
INPORTANT
Inside the hub, where the bolt goes in are a number of washers “spacers” don’t lose them. When you reassemble the unit, install the bolt to hold the washers in place.
The Hard Part
There is a ring clip that retains the bearing on the compressor shaft, this must be removed. The clip must be expanded; there are two holes at each end of the clip for your clip wrench to fit in. The wrench I had couldn’t spread the clip enough, when I use the right angle ones, I was able to rotate the clip on the shaft so I could get my straight tool in and was able to remove the clip.
Once the clip is removed you want to remove the pulley along with the bearing. The bearing is pressed into the pulley. I borrowed a tool from Auto Zone 2700, If you had four hands it was easy to get the tool on the pulley and it came off by turning the bolt by hand.
Once the pulley is removed you can press out the bearing or leave the bearing in place and remove the bearing seals from each end for inspection. This is a double row roller bearing. I decided to regrease mine using a grease gun and grease needle.

This would be a good time to remove the tensioner and idle pulley to inspect the bearings.
My idler pulley bearing can be pressed out , The tensioner bearing is molded into the plastic wheel and can’t be pressed out, but the seals can be removed and it can be greased.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top