Front Engine Mount



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Thread: Front Engine Mount

  1. #1
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    Unhappy Front Engine Mount

    I was changing oil the other night, and was underneath looking for leaks, when I notice that the engine is "shaking" somewhat. Well, to my eye, the front motor mount appears to be south. Anyone had to replace one?

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  3. #2
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    I'm in need of replacing the same one soon. It's getting pretty bad, the others seem to be ok. Hopefully someone can post and help us both out.
    2001 Infiniti i30 3.0 DOHC V6: VQ30DE 177,000 miles; 1999 Nissan Altima GLE KA24 168,000 Miles
    1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Laramie 5.9 46RE, 182,000 Miles
    Prev. 97 T&C LXi 184k 3.8, 94 T&C 3.8 156k Miles, 93 GV LE 3.3 123k

  4. #3
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    I've not had to do it, but I have the instructions from my Alldata sub:

    REMOVAL
    1. Support the engine and transmission assembly with a floor jack so it will not rotate.
    2. Remove the front engine mount through bolt from teh insulator and front crossmember mounting bracket.
    3. Remove six screws from air dam to allow access to the front mount screws.
    4. Remove the front engine mount screws and remove the insulator assembly.
    5. Remove the front mounting bracket, if necessary.

    It has specific torque for the screws/bolts, but uses a diagram to show which get what though.

    The bolts that attach the engine ount to teh lower radiator crossmember get 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.), the front engine through bolt, and the 2 bolts that go in the lower part of the Engine mount bracket get 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.), and the bolt that goes in the upper part of the engine mount bracket gets 102nm (75 ft. lbs.).

    Hope that helps.
    '99 Chyrsler Town & Country Limited, 144k

  5. #4
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    did it recently

    Quote Originally Posted by heffe2001 View Post
    I've not had to do it, but I have the instructions from my Alldata sub:

    REMOVAL
    1. Support the engine and transmission assembly with a floor jack so it will not rotate.
    2. Remove the front engine mount through bolt from teh insulator and front crossmember mounting bracket.
    3. Remove six screws from air dam to allow access to the front mount screws.
    4. Remove the front engine mount screws and remove the insulator assembly.
    5. Remove the front mounting bracket, if necessary.
    Sounds about right, it's very straight forward and easy to get to. My bolts were extremely tight, and getting the bracket to line up for installation was the tough part. It has slotted holes, so it's easy to line it up crooked. I imagine if it's not centered when you bolt it down it will fail quickly. It took away some of the bonking noises I was hearing.

    good luck!
    Thanks -- Erwin

    '96 Chrysler Town and Country LXi

  6. #5
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    Cool

    While you're under there, also check ALL the other mounts, including the Tranny mounts. If one went, the others may not be far behind.

    You didn't share any vehicle specs, but I replaced ALL mine at 167kmiles.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 222,222 miles and counting ......
    Still Going Strong


  7. #6
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    Sorry, I forgot to give my vehicle specs.
    It's a '98 T&C LXi w/ 212K miles.
    Runs like a top.

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