A/C overcharged(not cold)



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Thread: A/C overcharged(not cold)

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    A/C overcharged(not cold)

    Well now I am trying to figure out another problem with my buddy's gc. The past couple of days has been hot so we have been using the a/c. Well the a/c is cool but not cold. I have one of those refill and gauge kits for the a/c. Well the gauge tells me that it may be overcharged. Is that the reason why its not cold? Or is there a valve not opening all the way so it reads overcharged? The rad fans now work so air is moving threw the radiator area. Can I let some of the freon out? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    This might be a silly question but you are checking the level with it running and the AC on right? I know if you look at it with it off it will read high. Just a thought. The proper way to remove would be to vac it out but if you had trouble getting the hose on and some came out who would know the difference?
    2002 Chrysler Town and Country Limited AWD

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    Quote Originally Posted by glgz11 View Post
    This might be a silly question but you are checking the level with it running and the AC on right? I know if you look at it with it off it will read high. Just a thought. The proper way to remove would be to vac it out but if you had trouble getting the hose on and some came out who would know the difference?
    Yes I am checking it with it running. Thats how I was planning to try to get some of the freon out(sometimes that connector doesn't like to connect nice and tight.)But I don't know if there was another reason why it is overcharged. There is a sticker on there that says dodge was locating a leak and put die in it, but that was many years ago.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    If you have very high pressure on the high side, which is usually all the little refill gauges read, you almost certainly have a stuck H valve, or metering valve. Typically it is bolted to the firewall where the pressure hose bolts to the firewall. There is a square block that the hose bolts to. They typically get ashed up on the valve and stop working. I have replaced 5 over the years and they act like they are low on freon, fog coming from the vents, but when you measure the pressure, it is very high on the pressure side and not much on the suction side, since nothing is coming through. You can replace it yourself. Get new ones, if you have someone that can salvage the freon (suck it out) that is a nice thing, they can even reinstall it when it is fixed if they are set up right. But if you are in the back yard, you can release it with the schrader valve, do it slowly so oil does not go everywhere. Once the pressure is off, unbolt and tape over the pipes to keep moisture from getting in. Replace the block, using new seals, aluminum, and vacuum out the system. If you do not leave the system open and replace the block quickly, you should not have to replace the drier, but it is recommended any time you open the system. Note if significant amounts of oil spill and replace about what you think got out. Pull a vacuum (or better yet pressurize it with nitrogen, see if it holds or if the pressure changes overnight.) Some manuals warn against leaving vacuum on the system for extended periods. If it holds, refill the system and you are good to go. Do not dump liquid refrigerant in the suction side, let it boil off as a gas can rightside up, put in warm (not hot) water, or hose down, if needed. If you do the best way, you will need a lot of equipment. If you do it yourself, you will have to go somewhere to get a vacuum pulled on the system. If you have a compressor, you can get a cheap vacuum generator that hooks to an air line (if you have the cfm). Happy AC fixins.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
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    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
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    Lightbulb

    TCWAGNER1 has some good recommendations, however, before you do anything, you might wish to share your observations with us that have brought you to this conclusion in the first place.

    What's your "HI" pressure, what's your "LO" pressure. While the vehicle is stationary, are you running water on, or an external fan blowing in front of the grille, to keep the condenser cool (sitting stationary for an extended time, with no adequate cooling of the condenser will show a high head pressure -- even if your internal fan is running)?

    Did you replace the A/C compressor, or is this the original one?

    Need more info, before throwing ideas blindly at it.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTraveller View Post
    TCWAGNER1 has some good recommendations, however, before you do anything, you might wish to share your observations with us that have brought you to this conclusion in the first place.

    What's your "HI" pressure, what's your "LO" pressure. While the vehicle is stationary, are you running water on, or an external fan blowing in front of the grille, to keep the condenser cool (sitting stationary for an extended time, with no adequate cooling of the condenser will show a high head pressure -- even if your internal fan is running)?

    Did you replace the A/C compressor, or is this the original one?

    Need more info, before throwing ideas blindly at it.
    I think the kit I have only connects to the low side. I will have to look at it later to see what pressure it says but it said it was overcharged. Yes the radiator fans are running so air is moving threw the condenser. The compressor as far as I know is original.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Kscha41 View Post
    I think the kit I have only connects to the low side. I will have to look at it later to see what pressure it says but it said it was overcharged. Yes the radiator fans are running so air is moving threw the condenser. The compressor as far as I know is original.
    OK, but was it connected to the "LO" side, or the "HI" side when it says "Overcharged" ?

    You REALLY need a "DUAL" gauge set, to monitor both HI & LO.

    What TC was saying, is that if your HI side is "REALLY" Hi, and your LO side is REALLY Lo, you have a bad "Expansion Valve" (possibly plugged). That block he was talking about. On the "DUAL" A/C systems (Rear A/C unit), you also have one back there, just as the lines come up through the floor.

    If, you have high "LO" side, and your "Hi" side isn't actually that high, then you still need to replace the "Expansion Valve" (it's bad and fully opened). I'm presuming your gauge is connected to the "LO" side and it's saying the pressure is HIGH. How much, compared to static (when you don't have the compressor running)?

    If the above is true, then follow TC's recommendations, and replace the "Expansion Valve". Rent a dual gauge set from a parts store, please.
    Last edited by AzTraveller; 04-28-2009 at 03:57 PM.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTraveller View Post
    OK, but was it connected to the "LO" side, or the "HI" side when it says "Overcharged" ?

    You REALLY need a "DUAL" gauge set, to monitor both HI & LO.

    What TC was saying, is that if your HI side is "REALLY" Hi, and your LO side is REALLY Lo, you have a bad "Expansion Valve" (possibly plugged). That block he was talking about. On the "DUAL" A/C systems (Rear A/C unit), you also have one back there, just as the lines come up through the floor.

    If, you have high "LO" side, and your "Hi" side isn't actually that high, then you still need to replace the "Expansion Valve" (it's bad and fully opened). I'm presuming your gauge is connected to the "LO" side and it's saying the pressure is HIGH. How much, compared to static (when you don't have the compressor running)?

    If the above is true, then follow TC's recommendations, and replace the "Expansion Valve". Rent a dual gauge set from a parts store, please.

    The kit will only connect to the low side so the operator won't get confused I am going to get my gauge back form my friend and see what pressures I get with the a/c on and off.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    There is one other possibility you might try before doing anything else. Make sure the condenser is not choked with bugs. Can you touch pipe coming from the condenser (the part in front of the radiator, without burning yourself? (Careful, spit of the finger, like an iron, don't grab it!) It will be hot, but if it is too hot coming back from the condenser, it could be plugged with metal from an old change out or it could be full of bugs. I had one that was not cooling, showed high pressure, took it to a AC friend, he noticed the heat was too high on this pipe. Took a hose with a pressure nozzle and shot out the condenser grill, suddenly it cooled again and needed no refrigerant. Here in Florida we have mosquitoes and "love bugs" that will choke a condenser quite easily. You might try checking that first.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcwagner1 View Post
    There is one other possibility you might try before doing anything else. Make sure the condenser is not choked with bugs. Can you touch pipe coming from the condenser (the part in front of the radiator, without burning yourself? (Careful, spit of the finger, like an iron, don't grab it!) It will be hot, but if it is too hot coming back from the condenser, it could be plugged with metal from an old change out or it could be full of bugs. I had one that was not cooling, showed high pressure, took it to a AC friend, he noticed the heat was too high on this pipe. Took a hose with a pressure nozzle and shot out the condenser grill, suddenly it cooled again and needed no refrigerant. Here in Florida we have mosquitoes and "love bugs" that will choke a condenser quite easily. You might try checking that first.
    Its not full of bugs but there is some white build up in some of the condensor fins. I will try to clean the best I can.

    Also I got the pressures of the a/c when off and running. With the car off, the pressure was reading 65 psi(that is border line warning/ alert) and with the a/c running I got 47 psi(border line Alert/filled) So the psi is dropping so maybe it is just overfilled. If overfilled, will that make it not cold, just cool.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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