Transmission pan bolts stripped



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Thread: Transmission pan bolts stripped

  1. #1
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    Question Transmission pan bolts stripped

    For the first time since I've owned the van, I dropped the transmission pan to change the filter. 4 of the bolts were cross-threaded and stripped and the previous mechanic had just glued the whole thing back together with black silicone, no gasket. What should I do? try as is, and hope the remainder of the bolts hold it tight enough? Drill and tap the offenders to the next step up?

    Previously I was just siphoning 4 qts out, and adding 4 new qts without changing a filter. I now wish I had done the same again
    Thanks -- Erwin

    '96 Chrysler Town and Country LXi

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    Probably the best repair in this situation would be to install "Helicoils" in the damaged locations. I wouldn't trust 4 missing bolts not to allow leakage.

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    And I would install a drain in the pan so it wont have to come off again for a long time.

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    RTV sealant is the norm and it forms a silicone sealent. Gasket isn't the norm.

    Stripped bolts, yikes. Need to get those bolts somewhat tight. Drill and tap if that is the easiest route. Wonder if there are studs you could put in there.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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    In the past I have just put in longer bolts to catch the remaining threads.
    Hank
    07 Dodge Caravan SXT 3.3L Gold 105,000 kms
    05 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L Silver 165,000 kms

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hankster View Post
    In the past I have just put in longer bolts to catch the remaining threads.
    Hank
    It that case, maybe J-B Weld and studs will work for a more permanent stronger fix.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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    Thanks!

    The bolts were very tight when I took them out, that must have stripped them. I tried to get to the untouched threaded section with longer bolts, but there's not much there, much it already buggered up with silicone, and the bolts were just coming back out with coils of thread stuck to them. Not a very strong alloy for the case, if you ask me. I noticed a crack near where the side panel bolts on, too. I hadn't realized the silicone was standard, since a gasket came with my filter kit.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepman View Post
    It that case, maybe J-B Weld and studs will work for a more permanent stronger fix.
    I'm going to try that this afternoon. Then I'll leave the pan alone for the next 100K miles, and just periodically siphon through the dipstick filler. Thanks all!
    Thanks -- Erwin

    '96 Chrysler Town and Country LXi

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    Quote Originally Posted by paart View Post
    Probably the best repair in this situation would be to install "Helicoils" in the damaged locations. I wouldn't trust 4 missing bolts not to allow leakage.
    I will second this! They are more expensive than the cheap fixes that "might" hold, however they are a PERMINENT fix. I did this to my Saturn's valve cover cause 3 of the bolts were stripped when I took it off. If you do it this way, the best thing you should get is a bottom tap(a tap that hat threads all the way down the shank). This way you can get it all the way in and not have to worry about the length of the bolts.

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    Smile JB weld holds so far

    I don't know if they'll ever come out. Those studs felt so much sturdier to torque, I'm scared of the little bolts now, I want to convert all of them. No leaks detected yet.

    So the filter doesn't need changing for 100K? What about the ATF4?
    Thanks -- Erwin

    '96 Chrysler Town and Country LXi

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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtBasement View Post
    I don't know if they'll ever come out. Those studs felt so much sturdier to torque, I'm scared of the little bolts now, I want to convert all of them. No leaks detected yet.

    So the filter doesn't need changing for 100K? What about the ATF4?
    J-B Weld is very strong and tenacious. I believe my Neighbour, who has an old 1953 Dodge Power Wagon ex-military 3/4 ton army truck, which he uses for snow ploughing (commercially) and for hauling fire wood for himself, has the vehicle held together with it.

    Were there any threads available for the studs to thread into?

    Pan drop and filter change are covered in the Owner Manual. I am changing around 100,000 kms rather than 100,000 miles (easy to remember), which is a little sooner than need be. 100,000 miles should be fine, the fluid was designed to outlast 100,000 miles.
    Last edited by Jeepman; 04-19-2009 at 09:42 PM.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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