1996 Grand Caravan LE won't shift out of 2nd



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Thread: 1996 Grand Caravan LE won't shift out of 2nd

  1. #1
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    1996 Grand Caravan LE won't shift out of 2nd

    I have a 96 Grand Caravan LE 3.8

    It's got 194,000 on it never had an issue and runs great...one of the best vehicles we've ever owned.

    OK so my wife is driving to work and it's fine at first, then a couple of miles down the road at the stop light she goes... 1st...2nd...slips...revs...hits 2nd...stays in second. She stops starts again...same thing. No problem with reverse 1st or 2nd...no 3rd or 4th.
    There is no noises and fluid is clean. I threw it on OBD2 scanner and it came up with code=720 (output speed sensor) so I changed the sensor...still exactly the same. I scanned it again after driving a few miles now no codes but still not shifting into 3rd. Any suggestions?

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    Not sure if this would help or not but maybe try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the computers.

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    Are you sure that you have 1st? it may be in Limp Home Mode. If so you will only have reverse and second. This is what happens when one of the sensors are out of spec. It could be as simple as an input or output speed sensor, PRNDL switch or solenoid pack. If the output speed sensor is bad your speedometer will not work. Usually this happens without notice. Don't let a trans shop tell you that your trans is shot without scanning it. If the fluid is clean like you say it is likely there is nothing major wrong. If you don't figure it out yourself you need to find someone with a Factory or OTC, Snap On scanner to read everything. Your scanner will not. It sounds like something that can be repaired easily unless the lined cluches are worn out. One of these scanners should be able to deternine that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by petet View Post
    Are you sure that you have 1st? it may be in Limp Home Mode. If so you will only have reverse and second. This is what happens when one of the sensors are out of spec. It could be as simple as an input or output speed sensor, PRNDL switch or solenoid pack. If the output speed sensor is bad your speedometer will not work. Usually this happens without notice. Don't let a trans shop tell you that your trans is shot without scanning it. If the fluid is clean like you say it is likely there is nothing major wrong. If you don't figure it out yourself you need to find someone with a Factory or OTC, Snap On scanner to read everything. Your scanner will not. It sounds like something that can be repaired easily unless the lined cluches are worn out. One of these scanners should be able to deternine that.
    The 604 can be completely grenaded with pieces in the pan big enough to see the part numbers and the fluid will "look" good. You cannot go by this. The typical failure is NOT burnt clutches on these but typiclally a snapped hard part or planetary failure. Neither of which will discolor the fluid

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    The 604 can be completely grenaded with pieces in the pan big enough to see the part numbers and the fluid will "look" good. You cannot go by this. The typical failure is NOT burnt clutches on these but typiclally a snapped hard part or planetary failure. Neither of which will discolor the fluid
    Buy these failures will cause other kinds of problems...like no movement in any gear or chunks of metal in the pan.

    There are many trans shops that say the trans is destroyed when it in fact is a solenoid pack, sensor or switch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by petet View Post
    Buy these failures will cause other kinds of problems...like no movement in any gear or chunks of metal in the pan.

    There are many trans shops that say the trans is destroyed when it in fact is a solenoid pack, sensor or switch.
    And this is news how? Most times they can hook up the scanner and know. Or if one drops their pan they'll find this out. Pretty rare for a sol pack to completely dump btw

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    From what I read in the factory transmission diagnostic charts, a 1-2 flair back to 2nd very commonly a broken overdrive hub or stripped splines on this hub. My tranny guys also say this is really common and the way to tell it's this vs a clutch problem is that with a clutch problem, something called CVI's will show way out of whack and there be a lot of clutch material in the pan. if its a broken hub, fluid will be nice still and cvi's will be normal.

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    Talking

    These trannys are "SMART", you can go to a tranny shop and they can connect it to a scanner and it will "TELL" them what the status of each clutch and band is. Go to 2 or 3 tranny shops and get it scanned, get a print-out to take with you.

    DO NOT GO TO AA***, unless you want to take you tranny home in a "doggy bag".


    On the other hand, You have 194kmiles, it has served well. If it's NOT a failure, you're probably close to having one, anyway. Yes, some trannys will go over 200kmiles (right guys?), others grenade by 140kmiles. YMMV (your mileage may vary). You may be further ahead, simply by selecting a tranny shop and getting it rebuilt. You'll be good to go for another 190kmiles ....

    Call around and ask what a 1996 A604/41TE costs to rebuild (get them to send you a quote and hold them to it).
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTraveller View Post
    These trannys are "SMART", you can go to a tranny shop and they can connect it to a scanner and it will "TELL" them what the status of each clutch and band is. Go to 2 or 3 tranny shops and get it scanned, get a print-out to take with you.

    DO NOT GO TO AA***, unless you want to take you tranny home in a "doggy bag".


    On the other hand, You have 194kmiles, it has served well. If it's NOT a failure, you're probably close to having one, anyway. Yes, some trannys will go over 200kmiles (right guys?), others grenade by 140kmiles. YMMV (your mileage may vary). You may be further ahead, simply by selecting a tranny shop and getting it rebuilt. You'll be good to go for another 190kmiles ....

    Call around and ask what a 1996 A604/41TE costs to rebuild (get them to send you a quote and hold them to it).

    Band? According the Chrysler A-604 Ultradrive Electronic Automatic Transaxle Student Reference book, there are no bands in these transmissions. I went to a couple trans rebuilding web sites (transonline and Atraonline) and cant find any band information on the 604 either. I'm thinking that according to what I was able to research on this problem the overdrive hub looks to be about a 90% probability expecially with the proper description given about the 1-2-slip no 3rd. according to the apply charts, this is how the trans clutches apply.... 1st Underdrive-Low/rev, 2nd underdrive-2/4, 3rd underdrive-overdrive 4th overdrive-2/4 and reverse is rev-low/rev

    In this explaination the first clutch listed is an input clutch and the 2nd is the holding clutch (except in 3rd where under-over are both input clutches that lock all planetaries together creating direct drive 1:1 gear ratio)

    I bet the code found will be 'gear ratio error 3rd' and/or fault after a shift.

    I sure hope there failure isn't because someone put the wrong fluid in. I read that if you put in Dexron or something other than ATF+4 you MUST have the entire transmission rebuilt with all new clutches and torque converter as the wrong fluid will saturate and soak into the clutches and be permenantly absorbed into the clutch fibers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by manicminivan View Post
    Band? According the Chrysler A-604 Ultradrive Electronic Automatic Transaxle Student Reference book, there are no bands in these transmissions. I went to a couple trans rebuilding web sites (transonline and Atraonline) and cant find any band information on the 604 either. I'm thinking that according to what I was able to research on this problem the overdrive hub looks to be about a 90% probability expecially with the proper description given about the 1-2-slip no 3rd. according to the apply charts, this is how the trans clutches apply.... 1st Underdrive-Low/rev, 2nd underdrive-2/4, 3rd underdrive-overdrive 4th overdrive-2/4 and reverse is rev-low/rev

    In this explaination the first clutch listed is an input clutch and the 2nd is the holding clutch (except in 3rd where under-over are both input clutches that lock all planetaries together creating direct drive 1:1 gear ratio)

    I bet the code found will be 'gear ratio error 3rd' and/or fault after a shift.

    I sure hope there failure isn't because someone put the wrong fluid in. I read that if you put in Dexron or something other than ATF+4 you MUST have the entire transmission rebuilt with all new clutches and torque converter as the wrong fluid will saturate and soak into the clutches and be permenantly absorbed into the clutch fibers.
    manicminivan, you can make a mountain out a mole hill so very well, I salute you. I was talking "generically". The A604 was a growth from the A727, which had bands, as well as clutches.

    He has over 190kmiles, he's due for service, pending upon what the tranny scan says. I've always had good sincerity and success with COTTMAN, but he may find someone local that is as reliable.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


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