Brakes are squeaking



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Thread: Brakes are squeaking

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kscha41 View Post
    What do the pins look like on this caliper? I think I know what the braket guides are. The pad slides in on both sides into a metal kinda guide(slot). The drivers side has alll for metal guids and it was hard to push the pads in there. The pass side is missing two of those clips so it was easier putting those pads in. Do I need to lube that up? NAPA just told me to use the lube on the back of the pads. And I only noticed this noise of the drivers side. Also what are the anti rattle springs?
    If the vehicle has ABS or rear disk brakes, the Teves brake system is used which has two pins, with hex inserts in their head, for loosening / tightening, to hold the calipers on.
    Otherwise the brake system will be TRW and will have two bolts with standard hex heads to hold the caliper on.
    Whether pin or bolt, lubrication of those is necessary for smooth operation. The torque specs on those is 26 ft.lbs.
    Torque for banjo bolt is 35 ft.lbs., for caliper bracket is 125 ft.lbs.

    The guides on the caliper bracket, for the pads (backing plates) to slide on, build up with rust scale. They should be cleaned up with a good filing, and lubricated so the pads can slide freely on them. The very ends of the pads fit into these guides.

    Anti rattle springs, on the Teves system, hook into the caliper. For the TRW system, I don't know, but their purpose is to put some pressure on the backing plates for the pads to keep them from rattling around. The inboard pads will likely have anti rattle springs that push ito the piston cavity.

    Sounds like you are using old pads with some anti rattle pieces missing. Any cracks in the pads? Loose pieces of pad (unbonded areas) will cause squeaking.

    The contact area where the piston contacts the pad backing plate is where the lube or anti squeak compound is needed.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepman View Post
    If the vehicle has ABS or rear disk brakes, the Teves brake system is used which has two pins, with hex inserts in their head, for loosening / tightening, to hold the calipers on.
    Otherwise the brake system will be TRW and will have two bolts with standard hex heads to hold the caliper on.
    Whether pin or bolt, lubrication of those is necessary for smooth operation. The torque specs on those is 26 ft.lbs.
    Torque for banjo bolt is 35 ft.lbs., for caliper bracket is 125 ft.lbs.

    The guides on the caliper bracket, for the pads (backing plates) to slide on, build up with rust scale. They should be cleaned up with a good filing, and lubricated so the pads can slide freely on them. The very ends of the pads fit into these guides.

    Anti rattle springs, on the Teves system, hook into the caliper. For the TRW system, I don't know, but their purpose is to put some pressure on the backing plates for the pads to keep them from rattling around. The inboard pads will likely have anti rattle springs that push ito the piston cavity.

    Sounds like you are using old pads with some anti rattle pieces missing. Any cracks in the pads? Loose pieces of pad (unbonded areas) will cause squeaking.

    The contact area where the piston contacts the pad backing plate is where the lube or anti squeak compound is needed.
    The van has rear drum brakes but has abs. The pads are brand new along with the rotors. NAPA told me to bring the new pads back and get another because he said sometimes they are bad. The pads have no cracks or anything. I had to use a screw driver to push the end of the pad into the glide. The end of the pad that slides into the glide looks alittle bigger than the old ones. Also I am missing two of the metal pieces that go into the glides. That is on the passenger side. Is it bad to be missing those? At least that side slides better. My brakes have a total of 4 bolts. I would take pics of my brakes but tomarrow morning it is going to the mechcanic while he goes to florida for a week. Its going to the mechanic to fix the rad fans not coming on.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kscha41 View Post
    The van has rear drum brakes but has abs. The pads are brand new along with the rotors. NAPA told me to bring the new pads back and get another because he said sometimes they are bad. The pads have no cracks or anything. I had to use a screw driver to push the end of the pad into the glide. The end of the pad that slides into the glide looks alittle bigger than the old ones. Also I am missing two of the metal pieces that go into the glides. That is on the passenger side. Is it bad to be missing those? At least that side slides better. My brakes have a total of 4 bolts. I would take pics of my brakes but tomarrow morning it is going to the mechcanic while he goes to florida for a week. Its going to the mechanic to fix the rad fans not coming on.
    Two of the bolts are big (I think 17 mm) and two smaller ones(I think 12 mm or 10 mm). Those two small bolts have rubber boots over them.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kscha41 View Post
    Two of the bolts are big (I think 17 mm) and two smaller ones(I think 12 mm or 10 mm). Those two small bolts have rubber boots over them.
    The small bolts with boots are the caliper pins/bolts, I would think. The caliper slides on them.. They should be lubricated to facilitate the sliding.

    The larger bolts are likely the bolts for the caliper bracket, ie caliper bracket bolts. I believe they are about 13/16" head, bigger than the lug nuts at 3/4" anyway.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kscha41 View Post
    The van has rear drum brakes but has abs. The pads are brand new along with the rotors. NAPA told me to bring the new pads back and get another because he said sometimes they are bad. The pads have no cracks or anything. I had to use a screw driver to push the end of the pad into the glide. The end of the pad that slides into the glide looks alittle bigger than the old ones. Also I am missing two of the metal pieces that go into the glides. That is on the passenger side. Is it bad to be missing those? At least that side slides better. My brakes have a total of 4 bolts. I would take pics of my brakes but tomarrow morning it is going to the mechcanic while he goes to florida for a week. Its going to the mechanic to fix the rad fans not coming on.
    I suspect the parts missing are the anti rattle pieces. Do they bolt on with a small, short, bolt and do they press against the pad backing plate ends (to keep the from rattling)?
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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    Most of these posts bring up good ideas so process of elimination will probably be needed to find out what does not fix the problem.

    Did the old pads wear evenly? If this sat for 3 years you may have a piston issue (which was mentioned in an earlier post). Did you change the brake fluid when you did this? If you compressed the piston/changed the brake fluid when you swapped pads and rotors you probably would get near black colored brake fluid out of there.

    If you did not change the brake fluid now would be a good time whether or not it fixes the squeal.
    2005 T&C Signature Series, 64,xxx miles
    Lots of rust, leaking steering rack, bad rear AC condenser coil, rusted (and replaced) rear brake line. Looking forward to the next failure/defect that this Chrysler will bring into our lives.

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    You will need a front harware kit that includes thosemetal guide clips. They just snap in and are held in by the pad. I put a small amount of lube on those as well. Thats probably why yours are noisy
    Hank
    07 Dodge Caravan SXT 3.3L Gold 105,000 kms
    05 Dodge Caravan SE 3.3L Silver 165,000 kms

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    My experience with squeaking brakes has been mostly from metal particles in the pads (this goes away after a couple of hard applications) or a loose piece of pad material / loose pads.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCE Scott View Post
    Most of these posts bring up good ideas so process of elimination will probably be needed to find out what does not fix the problem.

    Did the old pads wear evenly? If this sat for 3 years you may have a piston issue (which was mentioned in an earlier post). Did you change the brake fluid when you did this? If you compressed the piston/changed the brake fluid when you swapped pads and rotors you probably would get near black colored brake fluid out of there.

    If you did not change the brake fluid now would be a good time whether or not it fixes the squeal.
    We did not change the brake fluid. It looks clear in the master cylinder. The old pads did wear even. The pistons seem to work fine.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hankster View Post
    You will need a front harware kit that includes thosemetal guide clips. They just snap in and are held in by the pad. I put a small amount of lube on those as well. Thats probably why yours are noisy
    Hank
    I will have to go to napa to see if they have those. The side that is squeaking has all four. The other side is missing one for each pad. When I get the van back in a week I will try a couple hard stops and see if the noise will go away. If not I will take apart everything for the third time and lubricate EVERYTHING except side side of the pad that meets the rotor.
    01 Dodge Grand Caravan (Sport) 3.3
    New tranny at 99,650 miles
    Currently 123,000 miles

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