No Heat 2007 Town & Country



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Thread: No Heat 2007 Town & Country

  1. #1
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    No Heat 2007 Town & Country

    Can anyone tell me how to access the Hot/Cold control Vent Flap.

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  3. #2
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    You might try this. I got it from a tech manual. Worse comes to worse, you may need to do this after.


    The A/C-heater control module must be recalibrated each time an actuator motor or the A/C-heater control is replaced. If the vehicle is so equipped, the calibration procedure also includes rear HVAC positions for each actuator motor.

    1. Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
    2. If equipped with the manual temperature control (MTC) system, press and hold the Rear Wipe/ Wash and Recirculation buttons for at least five seconds . If equipped with the automatic temperature control (ATC) system, simultaneously press and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the A/C-heater control for at least five seconds . The MTC A/C-heater control Rear Wipe/Wash button light emitting diode (LED) and Recirculation button LED, or the ATC A/C-heater control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
    3. The calibration procedure should take less than two minutes to complete for the manual A/C-heater control, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC A/C-heater control. When the LEDs or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
    4. If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the two minute (manual) or twenty second (ATC) calibration time, it indicates that the A/C-heater control has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Refer to Body Control Systems to perform further diagnosis. The LEDs or graphics will continue to flash even after the ignition switch is cycled Off and On, until a successful calibration is completed or until the vehicle has been driven about 13 kilometers (8 miles) .
    Grant
    Mopars currently owned:
    2013 Chrysler Town and Country L
    1975 Dodge D-100 4x4 400

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    Rodger (02-01-2011)

  5. #3
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    I think this is what you were asking for.


    REMOVAL

    WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIR-BAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH .

    1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the center bezel from the instrument panel and place it on a workbench.
    If the vehicle is equipped with the automatic temperature control (ATC) heating-A/C system, disconnect the infrared sensor connector from the back of the A/C-heater control.
    1. Remove the six screws that secure the A/Cheater control to the back of the instrument panel center bezel and remove the control.
    INSTALLATION
    1. Position the A/C-heater control into the instrument panel center bezel.
    2. Install the six screws that secure the A/Cheater control to the instrument panel center bezel. Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (17 in. lbs.) .
    3. If the vehicle is equipped with the ATC heating-A/C system, connect the infrared sensor connector to A/C-heater control.
    4. Install the center bezel onto the instrument panel.
    5. Reconnect the negative battery cable and calibrate the A/C-heater control.
    Grant
    Mopars currently owned:
    2013 Chrysler Town and Country L
    1975 Dodge D-100 4x4 400

  6. #4
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    Coincidentally I got the same problem just this week on my way back from Florida to Michigan and had no heat adjustment (just full cold!!!). I did the recalibration and then removed the lower actuator motor at the flap which is located at the driver's footwell. The remaining mating part in the heater box (just above the heat exchanger) is the shaft on the blend door. I could rotate mine for many revolutions (no door attached) and I could move it into the box completely. I have no problem in repairing/replicating the door but I need some guidance on getting the dash apart enough to get the airbox out and separated. Not necessarily screw by screw but rather which component after which...Thanks in advance...Gord

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    Talking

    You're under warranty. Take it to the dealer.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 222,222 miles and counting ......
    Still Going Strong


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    I'm out of warranty; anyone got a lead or guidance for getting the console apart? Also, will disconnecting the battery require various other system reset protocols? I am OK with rpelacing modules, but I am not a computer whiz so...

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordo.bernard View Post
    Coincidentally I got the same problem just this week on my way back from Florida to Michigan and had no heat adjustment (just full cold!!!). I did the recalibration and then removed the lower actuator motor at the flap which is located at the driver's footwell. The remaining mating part in the heater box (just above the heat exchanger) is the shaft on the blend door. I could rotate mine for many revolutions (no door attached) and I could move it into the box completely. I have no problem in repairing/replicating the door but I need some guidance on getting the dash apart enough to get the airbox out and separated. Not necessarily screw by screw but rather which component after which...Thanks in advance...Gord
    I have a similar problem, the recalibration had no effect, the servos all move properly but the manual temperature control does nothing to the actual air temperature. Whatever mates with the geared wheel on the blend door servo motor (the door's mating shaft?) fell off into the heater/AC box so now the door seems to be stuck in the position where only cold air is released. Getting to the heater/AC box looks to be a major chore that I have been hesitant to tackle. If you decide to take on that job, please post your experience. I'm curious how much work is truly involved. More so, I'd like to understand if the door and shaft mechanism on the heater/AC box is indeed reasonably repairable before I pull everything apart.
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

  10. #8
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    I took apart the whole dash; top, front and lower, and I still did not get the airbox out...but I could see in the top vent area and saw the broken part and fished it out with a piece of wire and some two sided tape. I then decided to just cut a hole in the side of the airbox above the heater core. If you take the two screws out then the actuator near the heater core can be removed. You should then see the female plastic geared end of the flap shaft. The flap goes toward the front of the car about 5 inches from this gear. I then cut out a 1 inch tall by 5 inch wide access hole to include the bushing around the female gear. Inside the hole I pulled out the flap and repaired it to the shaft end. I was fortunate enough to find the two pieces to repair. After the repair I put it all back together, slopped on some Bondo being careful not to get any on the shaft or to squeeze to much into the crack left by the dremel tool. Cover the actuator with masking tape and push it into position while the Bondo is still wet; this will prevent it from sticking to the actuator.Now I need to go outside and reassemble the whole dash. If I was to do this all over again from the driver's footwell the whole job would only take about two hours from start to finish. By the way my dealer said that the whole airbox would need to be replaced at $300+ and then about ten hours of labour on top. That's about a quarter of the value of the whole van
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  11. #9
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    If I hear you right you're saying you could have done the job from the driver's footwell area and possibly not remove the major section of the dash? From what I recall, I pulled the servo motor out and it had a male geared wheel and when normally in place this gear was positioned over a small access hole in the side of the heater/AC box. The access hole was maybe an inch or less in diameter. As mentioned previously, whatever was attached to the gear had come loose and fell back into the box. It seems likely it was a linkage shaft of some sort that attached to the door buried in the heater box. At one point I could put a finger in there and feel whatever had fallen off but I didn't see any way of retrieving it unless I had much clearer access to the box.

    So did you actually cut a larger section out of the side of the box in order to retrieve the loose shaft and then replace the cutout piece of heater box by fastening it with some type of plastic bondo glue/adhesive? Any chance you took pics showing more detail of that part of the repair?

    BTW, my local Dodge dealer estimated $1400 to replace the heater box. Saying no was easy.
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

  12. #10
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    Ya!!! I put mine all together last night (tested and watched the flap get calibrated and all) and then drove to work today with full control of the temp. I neglected to take pictures during the repair process (photos are to help reassemble all the parts, which I wouldn't need to do now that I would leave the dash assembled). The flap required a hole about 1 x 5 inches and I included the bushing in my added "trap door". The motor has a very positive location to its mounting points and the shaft gear so it was very easy to put my "trap door lid" back in the same place it belonged and then slop on the Bondo
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