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Poll on front crank seal longevity

9K views 13 replies 11 participants last post by  1994 Sport 
#1 ·
have a leak of oil near crank seal, spitting around onto the blk plastic shroud in back of lower engine. Suspecting crank seal over oil pan seal, as it is spitting around to the shroud. Does this sound logical, and in how many miles could one expect this to occur? (99 voyager, 3.3L, 133,000miles)

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
There hasn't been any discussions (to my knowledge) on "Front" crank seals, however, we have discussed getting the "Rear" crank seal (Rear Main Seal) done whenever you have the tranny serviced (major tranny overhaul). I had mine done at 160kmiles (for a GEN1, that's the second tranny rebuild). When I rebuilt my 3.3L at 167kmiles, I replaced the front seal, as "PR" (I was there replacing the chain, so I also replaced the front seal).
 
#3 ·
Crankshaft seal



I have 117000 klm on my 3 ltr. 2000 Caravan and the front and rear seals are ok. touch wood!!!!!!:)
 
#6 ·
Front seal replace

I recently noticed an oil stain on the oil pan underneath the front crank seal on my '96 3.3L 120,000m. Prior to the leakage, oil level/usage was 1/4-1/3 qt between oil changes (5000 miles). Now, crankcase oil level drops considerably with freeway trips but around town miles still not much oil loss.

I suspect oil pump housing seal, which of course is at the front of the engine. Have discussed the issue with my able mechanic and car will be in the shop soon to investigate further. Will keep you posted.

Vince
 
#7 ·
I just noticed mine was leaking this morning while I was changing the serpentine belt. I have 253K miles, so I guess I can't complain. I plan on changing it very soon. I'll chime back in after I've replaced the seal
 
#8 ·
The leak isn't uncommon as the vehicles get up there in age. I would guess that an average lifespan of one is 175k miles. Some leak earlier, some never leak.
 
#9 ·
Hey Pippo, I had posted an oil loss propblem on the 3.3/3.8 engine forum. I was going through a qt in 200 miles but couldn't see any profuse leakage, the tail pipe was clean and my coolant was clear. Only seepage I found was the front crankseal and the oil cooler. I just changed the front crankseal yesterday, and it was the easiest I have done. My factory manual referenced a special tool, which I found after I removed the pulley, would not have worked. The stealer said it would have cost over $200 plus parts and oil change to do the job. I have a 97 T&C with the 3.8 engine. The 3.3 is pretty much the same. I'm going to have to drive it for a while to see if the seal takes care of the high oil usage. If you are going to do this job your self, its pretty basic. Took me a couple hours after modifing my pulley puller to keep the bolt centered on the crankshaft.

97 T&C 193K miles orig. trans
Dave in VA.
 
#11 ·
Not neccessary, all I did was buy a shorter bolt for the crankshaft, and I drilled a hole into the center just deep and wide enough so that the knub on the end of my puller fit into it. Applied a lot of grease when I started it. I also had to use a long pry bar to stop the crank shaft from turning when the puller got tight. The picture would be of the head of a 10mm X 1.50 X 50mm long bolt with a drilled out head. Bolt from Lowes $.92. But if you still want a pic, I'll see if I can get my digital camera working.
 
#13 ·
I finally got around to changing my crank seal. It took a couple of hours. I intially tried to use my 3 jaw puller, but the crank pulley would not budge. I ended up having no choice but to heat it with a torch. I was using my laser pyrometer to check temperature as I was heating the center hub. It was over 900F before it started to budge. I had to keep heat on it for about 1 hour to get the pulley off. I would heat it.. tighten the bolt in the center of the puller and repeat until it finally let go. Unfortunately the rubber section of the pulley melted, so I bought a new pulley for about $70. Pain in the ass!!
 
#14 ·
My front seal lasted 220,000 miles and that was with running syn oil all of it's life. I have the specifed crank balancer puller which makes the job much easier. In the past I have used a regular 3 jaw puller but after awhile (say 4th or 5th balancer removel) the puller will be worn out.
I only problem I ran into was while I had the belt off the water pump started to drip due to the lack of belt tension that was side loading the water pump seal. I replaced the pump for good measure.
 
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