The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

Key FOB Not Working

113K views 48 replies 19 participants last post by  dkf747 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone,

One of my Key FOB's stopped working.

Is there a way of re-"flashing" it or something?

Thanks....

___________________________

'08 Town and Country LTD 4.0L
7200 Miles
Brilliant Black w/ grey leather and suede inserts
MyGig, NAV, VES, Trailer tow, Power 3rd Row
Sunroof and Swivel n' Go
 
#2 ·
Obvious question here...did you check / replace the battery?
 
#4 ·
Well, to be honest, you don't know where that FOB has been? LOL

Seriously though, the battery put in may have only been half strength. Who knows...it might be worth a try.

Also, does the other FOB work? Did something happen that made this one stop working? Dead battery on car..or something else?
 
#6 ·
one of mine just died
i just started using the spare.
i figured. there is 14 months or less left to the lease.
let them worry about it.

:)
 
#7 ·
In my opinion, if the RKE fobs require a battery to start the vehicle, then they are a serious liability. What if you were are some far-away place when it decides to die?

Add to that, the owners manual says "The Valet Key allows for entry into the vehicle should the battery in the vehicle or the RKE transmitter go dead".

OK, that's nice, but if you need the battery to start the vehicle then your valet key just gets you out of the rain and provide you access to the spare CR2032 battery you thankfully left in the glove box. :blink:

Or...

Perhaps the battery is only for powering the remote door locks and other buttons, and the battery is not needed to start the vehicle at all. I might try to remove the battery and try it, just to see.

By the way, the manual also says the expected life for the RKE battery is 3 years.


Replacing the RKE Transmitter Battery​
The recommended replacement battery is one CR2032
battery.​
[...]
If your RKE transmitter fails to operate from a normal
distance, check for these two conditions.
1. A weak battery in the RKE transmitter. The expected​
life of the battery is approximately three years.
2. Closeness to a radio transmitter such as a radio station​
tower, airport transmitter, and some mobile or CB radios.
 
#8 ·
By the way, the manual also says the expected life for the RKE battery is 3 years.
Sometimes you can get a bad battery. I've even gotten an occasional dud in a brand new package of good old "Made in the USA" Evereadys. Not often, but it has happend.
 
#12 ·
the battery can go dead from being in your pocket/purse. just think, there's buttons... something could push against the buttons for a period of time and you may never know it. so wouldn't that prematurely kill off a battery... hmmmm naw that could never happen, must be a fluke that your new van had a devolped a problem with the key fob...

Another reason I HATE gen 5.... no real ignition key... lose a key fob and BIG money to start your van again. or even worse, the transponder craps out and no start... arrrrrg .
 
#13 ·
Did you even see this van in person before buying one?
 
#14 ·
I'm curious about how these things work. I found this paper while doing a bit of research, and thought the forum might be interested also. This deals with the Magnum, but would apply to the minivans as well.
Source: http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2007/06-9957.htm

SUMMARY: This document grants in full the DaimlerChrysler Corporation's
(DaimlerChrysler) petition for exemption of the Dodge Magnum vehicle
line in accordance with 49 CFR Part 543, Exemption from the Theft
Prevention Standard. This petition is granted because the agency has
determined that the antitheft device to be placed on the line as standard equipment is likely to be as effective in reducing and deterring motor vehicle theft as compliance with the parts-marking requirements of the Theft Prevention Standard (49 CFR Part 541).

...

Under Sec. 543.5(a), a manufacturer may petition NHTSA to grant exemptions for one line of its vehicle lines per year. In its petition,
DaimlerChrysler provided a detailed description and diagram of the
identity, design, and location of the components of the antitheft
device for the Dodge Magnum vehicle line. DaimlerChrysler stated that
all Dodge Magnum vehicles will be equipped with a standard Sentry Key
Immobilizer System (SKIS) antitheft device. The SKIS, a transponder-
based, passive immobilizer antitheft device will provide vehicle
protection by preventing the engine from operating unless a valid
electronically encoded key is detected in the ignition lock cylinder.
The SKIS consists of a Wireless Ignition Node Module (WIN), a
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and a FOB Integrated Key (FOBIK) which
collectively perform the immobilizer function. The immobilizer feature
is activated when the key is removed from the ignition switch. Once
activated, only a valid key inserted into the ignition switch will
disable immobilization and allow the vehicle to start and continue to
run.
According to DaimlerChrysler, each new FOBIK is programmed for
operation of the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) system and has a unique
transponder identification code that is permanently programmed into it
by the manufacturer. The ignition key must be programmed into the WIN
module to be recognized by the SKIS as a valid key. The FOBIK
transponder cannot be adjusted or repaired. once the FOBIK has been
programmed to a particular vehicle, it cannot be used on another
vehicle. If it is faulty or damaged, the entire key and RKE transmitter
unit must be replaced.
Although I found this information interesting, there is not a lot of information on how the ignition transponder actually works. I earlier assumed that it was like a passive RFID tag because it functions without a battery. However, it that doesn't explain why one key can't be used on another vehicle after being programmed. I don't get that part. Why not? But if RFID is not exactly how it works, it's probably a very close cousin of that technology.
 
#18 ·
Silly question, if I wanted to get a spare key (my used '08 GC only came with one) off eBay that was already programmed... could a dealer reprogram it... or would they claim it's a one-shot deal? BTW, I also need to order an owner's manual. :blink:

I previously read in the owner's manual for the 4th gen vans that one can program a blank (non-programmed) electronic key in the ignition with an original key. Is this true for the 5th gen van as well? If so, I can save a ton of $$$ by buying via eBay rather than the stealer.

Please advise. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
Silly question, if I wanted to get a spare key (my used '08 GC only came with one) off eBay that was already programmed... could a dealer reprogram it... or would they claim it's a one-shot deal? BTW, I also need to order an owner's manual.
It's likely you'll have to go to the dealer to get these things programmed into your vehicle.

And the manual says a given key can be programmed only once. I would not purchase a key from ebay unless it was certified to have never been used, and you buy it from a very reputable source.


Replacement Keys​
NOTE:​
Only RKE transmitters that are programmed to
the vehicle electronics can be used to start and operate
the vehicle. Once an RKE transmitter is programmed to a

vehicle, it cannot be reprogrammed to any other vehicle.
 
#20 ·
Here is more info on the FOBIC key. I did some poking around with Google and stumbled on this: http://www.michaelhyde.com/category_s/211.htm . Don't know how to make it a link.
There is a lot more to the key system than I thought. Can't even remove it and replace with a standard key system. I just pray it lasts as long as the vehicle or some one comes up with a defeat system.
Keys sell to dealers for under $90, program sells for about $700.
Hope this helps; Bob H2
 
#21 ·
Cool link, Bob H2!

I did a search and also came up with this... a POD key, which is basically an emergency key, not just to open the doors but to start the vehicle, as well.



I didn't know these were available. You get the key blank cut to work the door tumblers, and then use your two FOBIKs per the instructions in the owners manual to program the vehicle electronics to "accept" the POD key as a valid engine-starting key. Only $25. No trip to the dealer required for programming as long as you have two functioning FOBIKs

Granted, it's not as cheap as going to the local hardware store for a spare "normal" key, but MUCH better than the $200 my dealer wants for a spare FOBIK.
 
#24 ·
I didn't know these were available. You get the key blank cut to work the door tumblers, and then use your two FOBIKs per the instructions in the owners manual to program the vehicle electronics to "accept" the POD key as a valid engine-starting key. Only $25. No trip to the dealer required for programming as long as you have two functioning FOBIKs

Granted, it's not as cheap as going to the local hardware store for a spare "normal" key, but MUCH better than the $200 my dealer wants for a spare FOBIK.
Agreed. Saw those too before posting yesterday. I'll have to bite-the-bullet and have the dealer program at least one key. Once I then get 2 legit keys... then I will program a plethora of my own. :cool:

Since we're talking about keys, even though I only need the panic, lock & unlock feature for my fobik, can I get the keys that have the extra buttons (eventhough I won't be using them) and program them on my own? Bear in mind I'm only talking about using the 3 functions eventhough the fobik may have more functions available. Make sense? Thx.
 
#22 ·
Incedentally, on the topic of 'how do these things work??' I found this from an eBay store (Transponder Keys for Less, http://stores.ebay.com/transponderkeysforless)

A transponder is short for: transmitter + responder. The word was invented around 1944. In basic terms a transponder is a miniaturized electronic chip that has what is called nonvolatile memory. Nonvolatile memory is the type of memory that does not need constant energy for
retention. Along with that electronic chip is a set of windings, very fine wire coiled around a tube. These windings look similar to the windings you would find in a electric motor.

There are two basic types of transponders. The first are the Electric Coupled Transponder systems. Electric coupled transponder systems are not limited to small areas for transmission but can transmit messages or signals for different ranges of distance including several inches to miles, as used in Satellites and Airplanes. These systems require large amounts of constant electricity to operate.

The second type is what automobile manufacturer’s are using and they are called Magnetic Coupled Transponder systems. Magnetic Coupled Transponder systems are passive in nature. This means they do not require constant electricity and thus do not need a power source
of their own. They operate in the frequency range area of 125KHz. Since Magnetic Coupled Transponders do not have their own power source they are very limited to range of communication and generally operate in the range of 1cm to 15cm. Since this is a radio frequency it can penetrate materials that would make the transponder not directly visible, such as the plastic or rubber in the bow of a key.

The process of key identification is similar in most automotive transponder systems. Once a key is inserted into the ignition lock and turned to one of the ‘on’ or ‘run’ positions, the induction coil that is mounted around the ignition lock sends out an electromagnet field of energy. The windings in the transponder chip absorb that energy and power the electronic chip to emit a signal. The signal is usually an alphanumeric set of digits which is considered the Identification Code. The induction coil reads the signal and sends it to some type of computer device to recognize the signal. If the signal is recognized as being already in the computer’s memory the signal
is accepted and other electronic components in the vehicle are set into motion to allow the starting of the vehicle or the continuation of the engine running.

Transponders can be made into several different shapes and sizes and can be used in many different types of applications such as: warehouse pallets, retail clothing, animal management, and of course electronic automobile key identification.​


I purchased one of these POD keys from that eBay store. Once I get it, I'll post the results.​
 
#31 ·
I purchased one of these POD keys from that eBay store. Once I get it, I'll post the results. [/left]
Update: I received my POD key about 36 hours after I bought it on eBay. Excellent seller. And I was able to easily program it to start the vehicle using my 2 FOBIKs. So that part of it works fine.

I brought the key to Home Depot today to get it cut, but they wouldn't do it. They said Home Depot has a policy of not cutting ANY transponder-based keys, because they can get 'messed up' by the machine. They could not provide a satisfactory explanation for why.

I'll now do a little research on the topic of how to properly cut a transponder key, just to be on the safe side. I'm not clear on WHY it could get damaged by a key cutting machine. (My gut feeling is that it won't, but Home Depot doesn't want the responsibiity)
 
#27 ·
jgiurleo; By all means let us know if it works. I don't recall anything in the owners manual referring to key programing. Maybe 09 is different? I would love to have an extra set of keys. I've already locked the FOBIC in the van.
Bob H2
 
#28 ·
I would love to have an extra set of keys. I've already locked the FOBIC in the van.
Bob H2
That's what I am afraid of! My wife and I are abismal at keeping keys. We never really lose them, just misplace them... er.. temporarily.

Once I found a set of keys in the mulch pile after a winter of wondering where they went.

Hmm.

I'm doomed! :Wow1:
 
#32 ·
They are probably afraid to set in in the vice they use to hold the original key. Think about it. Would you want a tight vice crimping your new plastic transponder? I suppose the dealers have a special attachment for the key cutters.
 
#34 ·
That, or for liability reasons (read security) they just can't copy keys like that. Maybe it was stolen?
 
#36 ·
What transponder are you talking about?

The metal key only unlocks the door, right?

It can not start the van. What am I missing?
See post #21. It looks more like a 'normal' key, but the transponder that is necessary to start the vehicle is integrated into it.

True, the metal part is useless for actually starting the vehicle. But it will work to open the doors. It should make a terrific spare key for the 5th gens.
 
#37 ·
Just curious what the latest is regarding this thread. Seems the dealer I bought my used '08 from found my 2nd fobik. Sweet! So now that I have 2 good fobiks... I also want to buy these $20 spares on eBay and program them myself. So, how did you finally get them cut? TIA.
 
#42 ·
My dealer had never seen it either.

I would not be surprised if the dealer could get it for you. I believe they are all made by the same company, anyway.

I can't imagine the dealer selling it for less than the guy on eBay, though.

The transponder is the same as your FOBIK, so you can have the dealer do it. Or if you have two FOBIKs, you can program it yourself in your van (see the owners manual).

Good luck!
 
#44 ·
Non 2010 Key Fob

I have a 2010 Town & Country my key fob stops working from time to time. The problem in my case the fob is not air tight and the round target like connections get a light film that does not allow good contact. Also make sure that all 4 contacts on the circuit board are making contact with the battery. When replacing battery you may of flattened one of the contacts. I just cleaned the contacts and the Fob is working fine. I also bought a Fob from Ebay for 14 dollars and put my old circuit board in the new fob because the small silver disks on the panel were coming off. Anyway these suggestions worked for me and i saved 300 bucks.
 
#45 ·
Have gone thru 4 Key Fobs' since purchasing since 2014.
They stop unlocking/Locking and opening the doors of the vehicle, but will crank it once inside.

* The original OEM Key Fob lasted almost 2 years.

* The 1st aftermarket Key Fob lasted less than 16 months.

* The 2nd aftermarket lasted about 4 months

* The 3rd aftermarket worked 3 weeks, on return for warranty repairs I watched as it was opened by the Lock / Key Smith and snapped back together when nothing was found wrong. Then it started working again??? This has been the pattern now for several weeks of opening and snapping the 2 pieces back together.

Nothing has changed in how I handle the key fobs and in fact they are kept in my breast pocket to avoid possible damage by other items in my pants pocket.


At over $270 per replacement plus reprogramming fees this getting very expensive. The wife and I have agreed our next vehicle purchase will NOT have this costly feature that can only be done by a dealer or a Locksmith.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Have gone thru 4 Key Fobs' since purchasing since 2014.
They stop unlocking/Locking and opening the doors of the vehicle, but will crank it once inside.

* The original OEM Key Fob lasted almost 2 years.

* The 1st aftermarket Key Fob lasted less than 16 months.

* The 2nd aftermarket lasted about 4 months

* The 3rd aftermarket worked 3 weeks, on return for warranty repairs I watched as it was opened by the Lock / Key Smith and snapped back together when nothing was found wrong. Then it started working again??? This has been the pattern now for several weeks of opening and snapping the 2 pieces back together.

Nothing has changed in how I handle the key fobs and in fact they are kept in my breast pocket to avoid possible damage by other items in my pants pocket.


At over $270 per replacement plus reprogramming fees this getting very expensive. The wife and I have agreed our next vehicle purchase will NOT have this costly feature that can only be done by a dealer or a Locksmith.
Welcome,

Maybe it is time to change the way you handle your KFOB's

Your wife and you are doing something wrong.

Technology is here to make your life easier. Keep your KFOB away from your pancakes and tequila shot glass and should last a lot longer.
 
#48 ·
Concerning cutting the keys, for the Foibics - I have been looking for someone to do it, with little luck. everyone said, you have to go to the dealer. The first dealer quoted - $20.00 each. The second quoted $15.00, each, but would not cut aftermarket keys, as they had had quality issues in the past.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top