Rear Drum Brakes 2000 Grand Voyager 150K



ChryslerMiniVan.net is the premier Chrysler Minivan Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: Rear Drum Brakes 2000 Grand Voyager 150K

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    39
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    Rear Drum Brakes 2000 Grand Voyager 150K

    Just thought I'd share. I did my rear drum brakes last weekend... a lot harder than doing disc brakes. Anyway, I heard a scraping noise coming from the rear and after 150K miles thought I should do the brakes. Took off the drums and the brake shoes were only 1/3 worn. My front discs have been doing all the work. Guess that's why I was only getting 15K on my fronts.

    Well the brake cylinders were leaking in the back as well. God Bless Chiltons.

    I bought 2 new Wagner brake cylinders and new brake drums/shoes from United Motor Parts in Teaneck NJ. Great place. Installed the new parts and shoes. I made sure to buy a brake kit which included all new springs, clips, etc. (highly recommend spending the extra $12 to do so). The kit even had rubber covers for the adjustment slot on the back side of the assembly (which were missing).

    After all these years (8) of having dealers and mechanics work on my van, I finally feel the van braking flat. No more nose dive because the front discs were doing all the work.

    If you want something done... you have to do it yourself (with the exception of my 15 year old daughter who helped me bleed the system by pressing the brake pedal). I'm sure I saved a heap, too. The whole job came to about $160. Replacing the brake cylinders and a rear drum brake job at a dealership would have set me back at least $400.
    Last edited by Armadillo; 03-13-2009 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Added my daughters help. And brake shoes.
    2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager
    3.3 v6 , 4 speed auto
    trailer tow prep
    Silver
    147,000 miles

  2. Remove Advertisements
    Chrysler Minivan Forums
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canton, Michigan
    Posts
    497
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts


    Good for you! Brake jobs are probably the biggest rip-offs to have done by someone else of any service. At $20-25 bucks, it's hard to do your own oil change these days. But brake jobs are definitely worth your time. Especially calipers, but as you found out, drum brakes can be done, too.

    Unfortunately, most all automatic, incremental adjuster systems like this don't work well over the long haul. I've learned to simply not trust them. Whenever you rotate your tires, take the time to manually adjust these drum brakes. Shops will simply pull the inpection plugs, tell you the linings are fine, but not check the state of adjustment.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Arizona, USA, and Elsewhere
    Posts
    3,502
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts


    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
    Good for you! Brake jobs are probably the biggest rip-offs to have done by someone else of any service. At $20-25 bucks, it's hard to do your own oil change these days. But brake jobs are definitely worth your time. Especially calipers, but as you found out, drum brakes can be done, too.

    Unfortunately, most all automatic, incremental adjuster systems like this don't work well over the long haul. I've learned to simply not trust them. Whenever you rotate your tires, take the time to manually adjust these drum brakes. Shops will simply pull the inpection plugs, tell you the linings are fine, but not check the state of adjustment.
    Good to hear you included your family in your maintenance. Those plugs also keep the water (puddles) out of the assembly, so you don't lose their operation when you drive through them.

    We typically tend to back up and throw it into drive, without coming to a stop, first. The brakes are designed to adjust each time you stop while backing up. My wife drives our van, so when ever I get a chance to use it, I'll back down the street, hitting the brakes hard several times to make the adjusters work.

    I'm surprised you didn't notice the pedal was getting low. That's why the cylinders were leaking, they had to travel so far the seals came out.

    NOW,
    If after you get the rear brakes fully adjusted, the pedal is still below "half way to the floor", it's time for a new master cylinder. If when you pull the master cylinder, you find the edge of the brake booster wet with brake fluid, you can automatically believe the booster needs replacement (if not now, then soon). I've gotten the habit of replacing both, as a set, especially when the master has been leaking.

    There's a thread on brake boosters, worth reading.

    Glad you're back on the road.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    westland, mi
    Posts
    547
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post


    you are dead on with the money, I just did this job for a friend on an f150, also changed the flex hose and the brakelines on the axle $180, for parts, he paid me $100 for labour and he still saved $100 acording to the bid he had got earlier, for just shoes and drums.
    99 plymouth grand voyager se, 3.3 engine, 185 000 mi. recently replaced engine, repaired strut towers, and other odd ball repairs and now just finished rebuilding the tranny, should be good for a while.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    12,707
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    590
    Thanked 935 Times in 778 Posts


    The way I see it, brakes should be serviced once a year minimum. For drums that would include taking the drum off, grinding off the rust lip that forms and adjusting them up.
    If brakes are adjusted up on a regular basis, that makes the drum harder to get off due to the rust lip. Can't win.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 112,920 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 311,200 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 251,430 kms

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    669
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    Had the same issue.. I had an intermittent noise and vibration from the rear wheel.. it was brake fluid leaking from the cylinder.. after it would accumulate enough.. it would get onto the pad and cause it to vibrate and scream for a few stops until it smoked off..

    This only went on for a day or so until I pulled it apart, but had all sorts of interesting theories from the experts while I waited.. LOL.. none were correct btw
    2006 DTS performance
    2005 Pacifica
    2001 SSEi Bonneville
    2001 RAM Conversion Van
    1997 Magna
    www.femint.com

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    High Ridge, Missouri
    Posts
    4,806
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts


    Unfortunately, most all automatic, incremental adjuster systems like this don't work well over the long haul. I've learned to simply not trust them. Whenever you rotate your tires, take the time to manually adjust these drum brakes. Shops will simply pull the inpection plugs, tell you the linings are fine, but not check the state of adjustment.
    Right on the money. That can be part of the reason for the cylinders going bad. The cylinders have to push the brakes so far out, because they are not adjusted, that it can cause the cylinders to start leaking. I have found that the vans with rear drum brakes have to be check/adjusted regularly if you want all four brakes to work properly when you hit the brake pedal.
    Avatar: EconoVoyager Concept
    2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L
    2004 Chrysler Pacifica AWD 3.5L

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    western Chicago suburbs
    Posts
    398
    Country: Users Country Flag
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 32 Times in 24 Posts


    I have found that the vans with rear drum brakes have to be check/adjusted regularly if you want all four brakes to work properly when you hit the brake pedal.
    This is very true. I did the rears on mine last summer because I thought the self adjusters were frozen. It turns out that all new hardware didn't fix this. I also purposely hit the brakes hard when I back up so the adjusters can adjust. They just don't work very well. You still need to routinely adjust them.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Now, LA - Lower Alabama (SE corner)
    Posts
    2,435
    Thanks
    36
    Thanked 63 Times in 55 Posts


    If I may be so bold, I had a 2000 Caravan with the 4 cyl. engine and had to replace my rear brakes. In fact I was nearly killed by them right after I bought the car. They were never properly assembled from the factory, apparently. Took it from Florida, where it had been all it's life in the care of an old couple, to WV. I noticed immediately that the parking brake would not hold on a hill. Looked all over for a way to adjust the brakes, found none. I was going to figure out how to adjust it the next week when I got to a friends with a garage. Reading up on the 2000, I found out the way you adjust them was not like on my 1990 GC,(full manual) it adjusts every time you put on the parking brake, if you never use it, it never adjusts. I have a full detail of the benefits of using the parking brake regularly on these vans to keep from overstressing or breaking the cable to the transmission, but this is on another post. Check to see if your information on adjusting the brake is the same as mine was. If so, use the parking brake, or go through several uses of it in a row. If it feels you have to push too far to get it to hold, it won't hold, or it goes all the way to the floor, that is a dead give away that your rear brakes need adjusting. If yours is like mine, you can't adjust them by backing up and stopping. I am fairly sure you cannot adjust them manually through a hole. Looking at the picture I have of those brakes, there is a wire wound metallic cable between the star wheel and the backing plate. The star wheel is up at the top, not the bottom of the wheel. I can send anyone the picture who wants it, also it shows what was wrong that would not allow mine to adjust, the adjuster arm was not in its hole and the thing looked like new inside, even though it had 135,000 miles. The other side was doing the braking and it was not enough on hills to hold it. My wife drove off with the parking brake ON, (the one side, it wouldn't hold), boiled the fluid and we had no brakes going down through the middle of downtown Charleston on the interstate. None. The only thing that saved us was that it was Saturday and there was no traffic. I had her pull off on an exit, down shift and rub the tires on the curb till we stopped.
    Wheel was so hot you could not touch the rim. Very important to keep these parking brakes working well, both of them.
    2005 T&C Ltd 3.8 69k
    2000 Caravan 2.4l
    1990 Grand Caravan 3.3 149,000 owned 15yrs 4 trannies
    1990 Dynasty 3.0 120k 1 tranny 4yrs
    1981 Dodge Aries 2.6 only new car I ever bought 225k orig 11yrs
    1966 Dodge Coronet 440 Wagon, way old 1 yr. 135$ (Had to borrow it at the bank!)
    1964 Simca 1000 (bought for $10 rebored) 50k 4yrs
    1965 Ply Valiant V8 85k
    1964 Ply Valiant Wagon slant 6 200k 1 qt/200 miles
    1969 Corvair convertible 4 carb

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    39
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


    RE: 2000 Parking Brake

    To this day, I still don't have a parking brake. Under warranty, I brought the van back to Chrysler many times with no luck. Now, out of warranty, of course they have to charge me to look at it. I even had a local mechanic look at it as well. If I step on the parking brake lever just right (usually 8 to 10 times), I can get the parking brakes to hold.
    2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager
    3.3 v6 , 4 speed auto
    trailer tow prep
    Silver
    147,000 miles

+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. Rear Drum Brakes 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager
    By AzTraveller in forum 1st Generation Chrysler Minivan: 1984-1990
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 02-25-2013, 01:41 PM
  2. Improve rear drum brakes
    By hypervish in forum 3rd Generation Chrysler Minivans: 1996-2000
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 01-08-2010, 10:48 PM
  3. Rear drum brakes?
    By BlackOnBlackCobra96 in forum 4th. Generation Chrysler Minivans: 2001-2007
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 02-12-2009, 09:24 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts