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P0404 code?

125K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  gzukoff 
#1 ·
I have code P0404 coming up now (P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Open Position Performance). Can I clean the EGR or is it a part that has to be replaced? I just had issues with plugs, would that have something to do with the egr error?
 
#2 ·
50/50 chance cleaning the valve will help. Use electrical contact or brake cleaner. Niether leaves a film to collect dirt. You may have cracked or knocked a vacuum line loose when changing the plugs. Have a look see.
 
#4 ·
When my car had that code, I cleaned all the connectors first, then I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it. I still had the code. I finally replaced it and everything was fine. My '04 has an electronic EGR valve. I think think they fail pretty commonly on these cars.
 
#5 ·
doesn't that code mean that his page is not found?

sorry... had to be said. When I had an EGR issue, it turns out that one of the vacuum lines ports on the valve was clogged. never hurts to pull it out and look. You shouldbe able to test the valve as well (check a FSM for how) and see if the diaphragm is working as needed.
 
#8 ·
Just did the same things as you. The valve only operates after the engine temp gets above approx 50 degrees Celsius, the van is in gear and moving. To test that the valve is pulsing off and on, remove the narrow pipe from the EGR valve that leads to the inlet manifold and then SECURELY plug up the hole left in the inlet. Don't use a small rag...IT WILL GET SUCKED IN! Let the engine idle until warmed up and take a short drive...if the valve is working you will hear it chattering quite loudly.
Mine operated ok and when I dismantled the valve I found that the pindle position sensor was defective...it had an intermittent open circuit which was triggering the EGR code. You can try to open the valve but it's easy to pull the wires right off the solenoid by mistake. Even then you still can't access the sensor (which is just a variable resistor). I had to buy a new EGR valve and found that (at least in Canada) an OEM type from the Chrysler dealer was cheaper than any of the auto parts places.
 
#12 ·
Reviving the dead threads again here. I had a P0404 at 60,000 miles and replaced the EGR, ther code went away. At 73,000 its back again. I used a Duralast (hah thats funny) from Autozone it was close to $70.00. It has a lifetime warranty so when the weather warms up a bit this is my next project (among the list of many others).
 
#13 ·
Just a quick correction to my post above. Tirns out this was purchased from Advance Auto Parts, the brand is BDW.
Either I have something going on to keep clogging/fouling he EGR or this particular brand is not up to par.
I have owned and have been driving for 30+ years and never had an egr go on ANY vehicle foreign or domestic.
Maybe we should file this under the "what repairs being done that shouldnt need to be if these were well engineered vehicles" thread.
 
#14 ·
Sorry to keep replying to myself..
Found out what may be the issue with these particular egr valves. For simplicity sake, the heat causes the solder points to delaminate from the circuit board. Going to try the Airex Wells line, maybe I'll get more than 15k miles out of that brand. I'll disassemble the old one and post pics of the innards.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cE2_VAzhNtg
 
#15 ·
I just replaced my EGR on my 2005 T and C....Turns out, last time it was replaced, I was given the wong egr. So I was running with the wrong part
for the last 3 years(xzz option) .
I put on the BDW brand from Advance(got 30% off after ordering online and picking up at store $48). I think the car is running
better with the correct EGR on it.
 
#16 ·
I had four similar rapid failures on my '86 with one brand of pulse valve on a Mitsubishi 2.6 engine. This valve is peculiar to this engine, subject to exhaust gases, and failed one after the other.

I don't remember the brand but when I used a different brand it didn't fail?
 
#18 ·
Since I started driving I figure I have owned over a dozen vehicles and have driven close to a million miles and this is the first vehicle I have owned that has ever needed an EGR let alone be on its 3rd. Maybe there is something wrong with my van that is killing these prematurely?
 
#20 ·
The first was the original Mopar, the 2nd is a BWD from Advance Auto. I am going to ry the Dorman or the Airex/Wells tomorrow. I am stumped on this, I dont think they should be going bad this soon.
 
#21 ·
Got the Dorman replacement on Friday today was the best day of the weekend just drizzly and 50F so today was it. I am becoming a pro at replacing these, got it done in 45 minutes. There is no need to remove the alternator using 1/4 drive with a universal and an short extension.
Disconnected the batt to erase the code and did a 10 mile drive. Darned code is back.
Back to getting my hands dirty. :angrya:
Anyone have an issue with the Dorman EGR? This is starting to piss me off.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I replaced the original mopar 13,000 miles ago with the BWD. Got the p0404 code again so I figured it was a bad egr but Im not certain anymore. Going to check the one I pulled and see if it's operational. I have a sneaking suspicion I am going to be chasing electrical gremlins.
 
#24 ·
Received the warranty replacement and installed it this morning, so far 50 miles (fingers crossed) and no codes and no cel. Scangauge says all tests performed and ready to run tests, could be I got a bad one out of the box.
 
#25 ·
10 days and 300 miles later the P0404 is back . Next step is a Mopar replacement the its off to the dealership for repair, I cant stand this
 
#26 ·
Part of that code refers to the EGR control solenoid. Did you replace just the EGR valve or the EGR valve and the solenoid?
Follow the vacuum line from the EGR valve to the solenoid to locate it.
I replaced my EGR valve a while ago and cannot remember if it came with both parts.

A better place to lookup codes is on the Wells website. It is more manufacturer specific than other places. They have powertrain and ABS codes.
http://www.wellsve.com/tc_landing.html


----------------------------------------------
P0404 Chrysler
EGR position sensor performance


Probable Cause

Open or short circuit condition
Poor electrical connection
EGR valve
 
#27 ·
I looked up the EGR valve for the 2006 and noticed it is completely different than the one in my van
It looks like the later one is for 2005-2007

The instruction for the Wells EGR valve EGR4355 (the later models) is interesting:

In order for the computer to relearn the operating
parameters of the new EGR Valve, disconnect the
negative battery terminal for a minimum of two
minutes. Failure to follow this procedure may result
in a repeat EGR trouble code reset. After the battery
disconnect, the vehicle may experience some
abnormal drivability conditions. Approximately 15
minutes of normal driving will be required for all
subsystem parameters to be relearned.
 
#28 ·
Oddly enough after 3 days and another 30 miles the light is off again. I am starting to really dislike this design.
 
#29 ·
30 minutes and my lite is still off. :) BWD from O"Rielly auto parts... $74 out the door. Man, that bottom bolt behind the alternator is a real PIA!!
 
#30 ·
The bottom bolt is not too bad once you get the right tools together. I found a 1/4 drive with a short extension and a "wobbly" U joint and another extension were the perfect combo to get in there without removing the alternator.
 
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