The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

How to disable the factory alarm

160K views 57 replies 24 participants last post by  georgef 
#1 ·
I have done several searches and the results suggest there is no way to easily disable the factory alarm. If anyone has a way, I would welcome the info. :thumb:

My locks and alarm are nuts and I do not want to buy a new/rebuilt BSM to resolve the issues. We can live with the nutty locks, but when it sets off the alarm and disables the engine......it just gets too annoying. So if there was a way to just disable the alarm system.....we would do so.

Anyone have any ideas :confused:
 
#2 ·
Can you pull a non alarm BCM from a junk yard and try that? If the programming is not in the computer, it will not have the brains to control the alarm (correctly or incorrectly as in your case). This is only an idea so I'm not sure if it is feasible.
 
#4 ·
I would think that with the starscan tool you could reprogram things on the computers. This might cost a good amount of money and in the end maybe better off getting a new BCM.
 
#5 ·
You can ask about it from some shop that installs alarm systems.
They might know the answer because i think that they have to bypass the factory alarm when they install aftermarket alarmsystem, not sure thou:blink:
 
#6 ·
Still looking

I am still looking for a way to disarm the factory alarm on my 99 T&C Ltd. it has become even more unpredictable now.

If the car is locked and you use the key to unlock the rear hatch it will alarm. Today I unlocked the drivers door first, but did not open the door, then opened the hatch and it went off again.

My wife will not drive the van now as it has gone off on her at the grocery twice. :Wow1:

There has to be a way to disable it
 
#7 ·
Help!!!! Wiring guys step in

Found this link
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/668.html

thought I had hit the jack pot when I looked down the list and found line 13
Factory Disarm White/Dark Green (665 Ohm) left Connector bottom of Fuse Panel problem is, when I dug out the White w/Dark Green tracer and cut it all it did was disable the driver's door lock switch........which is also listed at line 16 as
Door Unlock White/Dark Green White Connector B58 Connector 250 Ohm Resistor perhaps I have the wrong connector on the left of the fuse panel......but I only see two big connectors, one on the left bottom and one on the right bottom of the fuse panel.

So I butt spliced the wire I cut and the driver's door lock switch works again.

Any ideas on where the Factory Disarm wire actually is ????
 
#8 ·
Hey jrprich,

I have a 96 T&C with a goofy alarm also. While I don't have the answer as to how to disable, what I have been doing is when I go to leave the van, I make sure all my passengers are out and their doors closed, then I lock the van with the power lock button while I'm still inside it. Then, I open the door and before I close it I press the manual door lock button down and close the door. The van is locked, but the alarm is not armed. This keeps the alarm from going off by itself but still allows me to unlock it with the key or the remote. Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
I will give that a try :ThumbsUp:
not sure my wife will accept this work around though

But I would still like to just disable the factory alarm for good.
 
#10 ·
We have been doing the alarm ritual for years due to our goofy alarm. You basically lock all of the doors with the inside electric lock or the key fob. Then you click the fob once to unlock just the drivers side(which also disarms the alarm) and manually press the top lock pin down. The net effect is to have all doors locked but the alarm disabled. My wife is OK with this method. If I am by myself, I exit the van and just manually push down the button because I know all the other doors are automatically locked after going faster than 16 MPH.

Honestly, the alarm systems are a joke anyway. They false trigger on so many cars(not just Chryslers) that no one pays them any more attention. Now, if the car could silently send you an email alarm on your Blackberry :thumb:....you'd ignore it as well! :lol:
 
#11 ·
Your issue makes me think that maybe one of your door ajar switches is bad, making the van think the door is opened (after the alarm is armed) and setting it off, when its not opened. That would also explain the crazy locks. It thinks someone opened the door, so it relocks the automatic locks repeatedly. I had this issue on my '97 and replaced the driver side door ajar switch.
 
#12 ·
I have looked through the manual and on the parts lists at Chrysler Parts Direct and cannot locate any mention of a driver side door ajar switch ?
 
#13 ·
This is EXACTLY what I've been thinking. My alarm has been doing exactly what everyone else's has been doing in this thread, and it's because I think one of my sliding doors is out of alignment. The alarm will just go off at random.

Also, if you find the alarm is "going off" when you unlock the van, it may OR may not actually be the alarm triggering. The system is programmed to notify the driver if the alarm has been triggered in the driver's absence. It does this by sounding the horn three times when you return to the vehicle.

I thought my alarm was going off each time I returned to my van, when in actual reality, it was just telling me that the alarm had gone off in my absence because after 3 horn blasts it would stop. No lights or anything.

When I jerry-rigged my sliding door, the alarm behaved perfectly as it should. I was the first person to say that the alarms on these vans were terrible, but they're NOT. At least in my experience, they work exactly as they should- but if something is the slightest bit wrong with the door ajar sensors located on the liftgate, sliding doors, hood and front doors, the alarm will have you pulling hair out.
 
#21 ·
#24 ·
#22 ·
in the mean time... have you considered pulling the fuse for the horn? If you can't disarm it, maybe you can just shut the damned thing up
 
#27 ·
Would this switch also control the interior lights coming on? Could you turn your time to stay on after off to 0 and open the door and push the latch in manually to see if the lights go off one at at time? Just a thought, I don't really know and it surely can't be that simple.
tcwagner1
 
#30 ·
Yes, it does control the lights coming on. That would also be a way to check them. Before I replaced mine, I could open my door and the lights would not come on, nor the door ajar light. I could wiggle the button around though and the lights and etc would come on. The driver side door switch went bad on my '94 T&C as well, with the same symptoms. I guess maybe because the drivers door is used more.
 
#28 ·
I read somewhere(dont recall where) that car thieves were disabling the alarms in chrysler vehicles by doing something to the dome lights,either shorting them out or pulling the bulbs.My friends van was stolen and he mentioned something about the dome light. You might try pulling the bulbs to see if the alarm still sounds,or check the wiring to see if they are connected somehow.
 
#33 ·
Got this tip from a Car Alarm forum......but our hood pin switches use two wires.....wondering which to ground?

Ground the hood pin wire this will stop the factory alarm from arming

Any ideas or thoughts ?
 
#36 ·
factory alarms are sooo rediculous

the purpose is lame and then they are expensive only to later cause super sized headache. has anyone ever actually inquired after hearing an alarm go off? other than at 3 in the morning.
my 05 t&c is haunted and i am ready to get rid of it after only owning it 3 months all because of one thing - the factory POS alarm.
only CONSISTENT way to safely enter it is to push driver side rear slide door opener. all other doors and unlock method may OR may not activate alrm (depnds on which way wind blows LOL). The other day at wally world i forgot something in van so went out to get it and did unlock on fob which caused light to go off and beep to indicate alarm off, i opened door got item, then pushed lock manually down and closed door = wo wo woo alarm and lights go off with all doors closed and all doors locked - go figure?!?!?!
for heavens sake if people would just share the info instead of always thinking people are trying to steal a freakin minivan or 1995 lebaron. i mean get real, who would?!?! yet so many forums people just think its something dishonest and nobody wants to give out info especially manufacturers and alarm specialists because protecting the money they can get when these stupid alrams go bad.
i have read and read this dialog and no one single thing works or makes sense for my case and all over the net people have same problem - crap fatcory alrams not working right and owners just dont need or want alarm anyway. maybe there should be a class action lawsuit for nervous breakdowns caused by these POS factory alarms?!?! LOL!!!
 
#38 ·
On the 4th gen vans the alarm can be activated or reactivated with the dealer scan tool. I wonder if the 3rd gen vans can be deactivated the same way.
Hank
 
#39 ·
I agree I just bought mine and am having problems with our alarm system, I know about one thing I havent seen mentioned, there is one year of the T&C that something in the radio has something to do with the alarm system. I am not sure which year but my uncle's van was acting crazy and he replaced the radio (factory radio) with a new (well one from the same year from the local pic-n-pull) and his problems stopped. I will have to ask him about it..
Anyway I totally get that about folks not wanting to out and answer this question, just like the one I saw about "Soldier repair" but no details on how to do it if it worked.. I mean come on if you know how to freeking fix it let us know this is what a forum for owners is all about right?
 
#40 ·
Anyway I totally get that about folks not wanting to out and answer this question, just like the one I saw about "Soldier repair" but no details on how to do it if it worked.. I mean come on if you know how to freeking fix it let us know this is what a forum for owners is all about right?
Learn to use the search engine on this forum and you will find lots of answers.
 
#44 ·
FYI, you can just unhook all the door switches, that may work too if you can't get new door lock pins. I had to do this in a rear end collision on my van on the tailgate. It worked.

Same with the passenger door switches.

You can take the switches out and refurbish them, but it is a pain. the Spring inside or the contacts rust. I was able to fix ONE, but after that, I gave up. To much hassle.
 
#48 ·
1998 dodge caravan and other dodges of same genre alarm bypass wire

factory disarm wire is light green/orange {-} located at the black plug in drivers kick panel....once located splice into wire with similar gauge wire and ground it to metal...and this is factoey bypass wire we use when installinf aftermarket remote start alarms...this will turn off your factory alarm for good.....
 
#49 ·
" factory disarm wire is light green/orange {-} located at the black plug in drivers kick panel....once located splice into wire with similar gauge wire and ground it to metal "
Same wire for a 2011 model as well? So if I ground it, but later on I will get a fob , and wire it back as it was, alarm still will work? My problem is I don't have a fob, just a key, and if i lock the doors on the panel, and open the door with key, alarm goes off... I want to shut it off at least until I will buy 2 more fob. I bought 3 the last few months, they all broke...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top