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replacing Alternator

17K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  CareLessAvan 
#1 ·
Hi,

I'm new here and I spent a little time looking around so if there a thread about this already please let me know.

I need to replace the alternator on my wife's 2003 Grand Caravan. I had the battery checked by AutoZone and Sears and both agree it is okay. Sears says the Alternator is not functioning properly.

I took a look under the hood before it got dark and it doesn't look horrible, but does anyone have an instructions on how to replace the alternator? I'll also do the belt while I have things apart.

Thanks,

Chris
 
#3 ·
If you remember correctly, Chris (aka Chrysler1924) has two Gen 3 vans which feature the alternator under the wiper tray back by the firewall; a rather difficult place to get to. Chriscurtin, the original poster on this thread has a 2003 which is a Gen 4 model, and in his van the alternator is right up front and very easy to get to and replace.

Chriscurtin, while I haven't had the need to do the alternator on either of our vans, I'm thinking that all you need to do is to remove the negative battery cable, release the serpentine belt from the alternator pully, remove the wiring from the alternator, and then the alternator itself.
 
#5 ·
I removed the alternator on my '04 T&C . It was very easy. Here's what the manual says.

(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Disconnect the push-in field wire connector
from back of generator.
(4) Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back
of generator.
(5) Separate B+ terminal from generator.
(6) Raise vehicle and support.
(7) Remove the right front lower splash shield.
(8) Remove accessory drive belt, refer to the Cool-ing
System section for proper procedures.
(9) Remove the lower oil dip stick tube bolt (Fig.
9).
(10) Remove wiring harness from the oil dip stick
tube
(11) Remove the 3 mounting bolts.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Remove oil dip stick tube from vehicle.
(14) Roll and remove the generator from vehicle
bracket
 
#6 ·
That pretty much sums it up for alternator removal. (Previous post by consultant) I've changed the alternator in my 2001 LXI twice in the last 2 years. The clutch pully went out on both times. It was covered under warranty from a local auto parts store. The most difficult part was removing the special plug connector. (I'm assuming yours is the same.) There is a small clip that secures the connector to the alternator. Remove it carefully and try not to break it. If I remember correctly it slides out and is very hard to see. I think I used a very small tech screwdriver. Remove the front passenger wheel and plastic cover to access the belt and spring tensioner. I can't remember what size open end wrench I used but it fit on the square part of the tensioner to release the belt.
 
#10 ·
Good place for a Mechanic's mirror maybe? What did you use to get the clutch pulley off?
 
#7 ·
Chrysler uses those frustrating plugs now. I found one on my Oil pressure switch, it took longer to figure out the plug lock than the rest of the job.
Hank
 
#9 ·
For the Generation 4 there is a clutch pulley on the alternator. Removal of that requires a special tool so I have been told. I had a Thread on it once here but didn't get conclusive feedback as to what tool had to be used. You can buy an alternator with the clutch pulley already on it for about $100 more. Other than that, your belt will likely be your biggest work effort.
Mechanics do this work in an hour, including changing the clutch pulley.
 
#11 ·
Jeepman, I didn't bother trying to mess around with taking it off. A new alternator was around $200 from a local PepBoys. It was just easier to replace the whole unit considering I had to remove it anyway. The new alternator comes with a new pully. What does a new pully cost from Chrysler? $100? and the special tools?
 
#12 ·
Good thread. I just replaced the alternator on my '03 3.8 V-6 THREE times so I have a pretty good handle on the problems. Quick synopsis: First time was due to pulley going bad and I didn't want to risk problem on upcoming trip. This job took about 3 hours mainly b/c of these things: 1) First time doing this repair, used Haynes manual, but missing some details; 2) didn't have belt tensioner tool and due to limited space between tensioner and frame I couldn't use 1/2" drive rachet or breakover so had to resort to a large screwdriver for leverage (and a neighbor's help); 3) the field electrical connector mentioned in a previous post was a pain in the butt; 4) removing the dipstick with attached cable; 5) figuring out what combination of wrenches and sockets would work for the various sized bolts and 6) getting the splash shield removed and then finding replacement trim clips to reintall it.

The first replacement alternator was defective and I had to replace it a couple of days later. With my first experience under my belt, once I had the van jacked up and the wheel removed, it took me about 15-20 minutes to remove the splash shield, loosen the belt (still didn't have a special tool); disconnect the wiring, remove the dipstick and remove the alternator. Re-installation of everything took about 30 minutes max, but did need my neighbor's help to install the belt.

I did the third replacement in my daughter's garage in Florida on our trip. :cry: The alternator light came on and according to the code it had low output. After having a mechanic check the system and reset the code, it came on again in about 35 miles. I changed it for the third time but this time with a different brand rebuilt alternator. A couple of thousand miles since with no problem.

I kind of doubt that it was two bad alternators. I am more inclined to believe that it was the field connector on the alternator. When you reinstall the connector make sure it is pushed on all the way, very tightly, and that the slide clip is securely in place. Also, borrow a tensioner belt tool kit from you auto parts dealer as that makes a huge difference in removing and installing the belt and enables you to do it by yourself. The first two times I changed the alternator I didn't have the tool and it made it very difficult and not as safe.

Hope this provides some help and encouragement for the next one needing to tackle this job. I will try to remember what size tools I used for what bolts and post that later. That info is getting a little fuzzy after a month away from the task.
 
#14 ·
Also, borrow a tensioner belt tool kit from you auto parts dealer as that makes a huge difference in removing and installing the belt and enables you to do it by yourself. The first two times I changed the alternator I didn't have the tool and it made it very difficult and not as safe.

Hope this provides some help and encouragement for the next one needing to tackle this job. I will try to remember what size tools I used for what bolts and post that later. That info is getting a little fuzzy after a month away from the task.
Think they would have made the tensioner arm rotation a little easier. For the Jeep, I just used the drive of my rachet wrench. There was a square opening on the tensioner arm for it.
Could one do the same or use vice grips and an insert for the Van? What size hole is available, if any?
 
#13 ·
Hmmm, interesting. While I do remember being initially a bit stumped on how to do the belt on our 2003 (the one on our 1998 was a breeze), I did figure it out after puzzeling over it for a few minutes. Believe it or not, it actually can be done easily by one person and without any specialized tools. That said, I don't actually remember what it was that I did, go figure. :blink:
 
#15 ·
There is a 1/2" square opening in the tensioner. B4 I started I assumed a 1/2" drive rachet or breakover would work as it did on my GM & Ford vehicles, however on the '03 T&C there isn't room for either. The loaner tool kit had a tool with a piece of 1/2" bar stock welded to a handle which worked fine. If I would have had a piece of 1/2" bar 1"-1.5" long, I think I could have made that work with a pair of vise-grips. A longer handle for leverage would be good but a large pair of vise-grips would probably get the job done. Good idea!
 
#16 ·
The one for my Jeep was tight as well, maybe some build-up in the square hole needed to be cleaned out, but it went in just enough to get the leverage needed. So a slightly undersized short piece of 1/2" square bar and a pair of large vice grips would probably work.
 
#17 ·
Before you replace the alternator, you want to be absolutely sure it is bad. Just because it is not producing around 14.5 volts to the battery doesn't mean the alternator is bad. It could be just a bad connection. I can speak from experience. I took a '91 Escort to Sears because my alternator light was coming on. On the way to Sears, I noticed that the light would sometimes go out, but then come back on again. Sears tested it and said the alternator was bad. I asked them if it could be just a poor connection and they said absolutely not, the alternator was bad. I left and went and bought a new one. Before installing it, I went to the library and got a repair manual that had an alternator test procedure in it. Went home and started going through the test procedure. At one point, I found that there was a bad connection. I corrected that and the problem went away. Took the alternator back for a refund and never had that problem again. Kept the car until a couple years ago and the alternator was still working fine. Definitely don't take what Sears says as gospel. If possible check it yourself, or at least get a second opinion from a reputable repair shop (good luck on that one).
 
#18 ·
I have replaced my alternator twice. Kinda easy with it being on top up front. As for the tensioner, I use a crescent wrench opened to fit the tensioner body and a length of rope attached to the open hole at the end of the wrench. Wrench fits in the tight space easily, and the rope can be any length, giving plenty of room for leverage.

As for the Haynes manual, I've found that sometimes it is overkill in removing some things. And it is known to be inaccurate in some descriptions.
 
#19 ·
Nice trick. I have also heard of using an old belt, in a similar fashion, to release install the belt.
 
#22 ·
2003 Grand Caravan Alternator and Belt Replacement

Thanks for all the post above...it helped me replace my alternator and belt today. I replaced mine b/c it was making a bad bearing (wow-wow grinding) sound especially when the vehicle was stopped but in gear. This fixed it.

Here's a few thoughts on the project:

- Took several hours longer than it should have because the engineers hid a couple of bolts.

- 15mm for the 3 alternator bolts. The bottom right one near the dip stick tube requires a closed-end wrench...too close to a/c line for socket.

- Must remove oil dip stick tube to get the bottom right bolt off. The bottom bolt for tube is hard to get to b/c it's behind the a/c compressor - used 1/2" box wrench to get it off. Lube the tube's o-ring with clean motor oil before reinstalling.

- 1/2" deep socket for elec connection nut

- The other electrical connection (plug) is very difficult to figure out. There is an orange clip underneath that is smooth/solid on one side and open pronged on the other. There is a little release clip on the open side between the two prongs (hard to see).. slide it toward the side and then the orange clip will slide toward the solid end/side. The orange clip DOES NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT. Just pull the smooth side out until it stops. Now, grab the connector near the wires and squeeze the lever in the indention to release connector. Look at the same type connectors on the radiator fans for reference.

- The lower right splash guard push connectors are a pain to get off/out. It also has a 10mm bolt under the front bumper.

- Belt: was very easy to take off and replace. The frame of the vehicle was too close to get a breaker bar or socket wrench on the tensioner pully (behind the removed splash guard), so I just attached a big (12") cresent wrench on the short rectangular stub (you are looking right at it when you take the splach guard off) coming off the lower right (toward front of vehicle) of the tensioner itself and pushed (or pulled, I don't remember) and the belt loosened right up.

Bought the 160amp alternator at Autozone for $170
 
#23 ·
- 15mm for the 3 alternator bolts. The bottom right one near the dip stick tube requires a closed-end wrench...too close to a/c line for socket.
(A 3/8-strongarm with a 15mm socket will go right in there and gives a longer spin)

- Must remove oil dip stick tube to get the bottom right bolt off. The bottom bolt for tube is hard to get to b/c it's behind the a/c compressor - used 1/2" box wrench to get it off. Lube the tube's o-ring with clean motor oil before reinstalling.
(If you remove only the TOP dipstick brace bolt, you can safely push the dipstick tube aside the rather slight amount needed to have better clearance to work on the alternator bolt, with out having to remove the dipstick tube)

- 1/2" deep socket for elec connection nut

- The other electrical connection (plug) is very difficult to figure out. There is an orange clip underneath that is smooth/solid on one side and open pronged on the other. There is a little release clip on the open side between the two prongs (hard to see).. slide it toward the side and then the orange clip will slide toward the solid end/side. The orange clip DOES NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT. Just pull the smooth side out until it stops. Now, grab the connector near the wires and squeeze the lever in the indention to release connector. Look at the same type connectors on the radiator fans for reference.
(I'm making it my life's mission to find the Chrysler engineer that designed that damnable other electrical plug, stalk him, and do unimaginable rude and painful things to him for it.)

- Belt: was very easy to take off and replace. The frame of the vehicle was too close to get a breaker bar or socket wrench on the tensioner pully (behind the removed splash guard), so I just attached a big (12") cresent wrench on the short rectangular stub (you are looking right at it when you take the splach guard off) coming off the lower right (toward front of vehicle) of the tensioner itself and pushed (or pulled, I don't remember) and the belt loosened right up.
(I have to bet that getting the belt back ON wasn't near as easy, was it ? It's almost a 3-handed contorstionist's job - but if you have someone else pull up on the cresent wrench from above while you slide the belt onto the bottom pulley from underneath, it takes 15 seconds :beerchug: )
 
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