Lug Nuts - Torque



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Thread: Lug Nuts - Torque

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveInColumbus View Post
    For most applications such as steel wheels on vehicles whose rotors are proven not to warp (such as my 'Scort) I don't know why either is important. My wheels aren't going to fall off and there are no discernable effects to uneven torquing, of which there is plenty when using an impact wrench. In other words, I don't see potential for damage or failure in most cases.

    I tend to be more careful with alloys than steel wheels. I've read about some wheel cracking due to use of an impact gun and I figure that's not really worth. Since most of the vehicles I've owned have steel wheels, my impact gun has sufficed for those cars.
    I actually had someone with an impact wrench "stretch" the threads on several lugs. When I later removed the lugs to change a tire, I found the threads "pulled" on the studs. You could actually see where the nut stopped on the threads. I had them replace every one of the studs.

    Another time I had some impact wrench happy tech cross thread a couple of lugs. What a time getting them off .....

    I'll stick with my long handled breaker bar.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepman View Post
    What's the torque specs for your lug nuts? 90 ft. lbs., 100 ft. lbs.?

    The difference between the two torques is about 1/16" on the circumference of your socket. Not much, the difference between 80 ft. lbs. and 100 ft. lbs. is less than 1/8".

    I was expecting a lot more movement for those increments of torque. I did these comparisons today when putting new rotors on the front of my Van.
    I would be interested in knowing what others are getting for rotation at the socket starting at 80 ft. lbs. as the base torque, to compare with my 1/16" at 90 ft. lbs. and 1/8" at 100 ft. lbs. Good way to compare torque wrenches.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

  4. #13
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    anybody put anti sieze on the lugs like i do? i know you are suppose to reduce the torque with anti seize, but i don't know how much.
    2001 Short Caravan 3.3L

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    Quote Originally Posted by x99j View Post
    anybody put anti sieze on the lugs like i do? i know you are suppose to reduce the torque with anti seize, but i don't know how much.
    I was going to do a comparison of not lubricated verus lubricated to see what the rotational difference is .... still on the agenda .... one of these days.
    Might be best to torque to 90 ft. lbs. rather than 100 ft. lbs., if using a lubricant.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by x99j View Post
    anybody put anti sieze on the lugs like i do? i know you are suppose to reduce the torque with anti seize, but i don't know how much.
    I use regular grease. Like Brylcreem, "A little dab'll do ya." I put it on all the lugs I worked with last Sunday.
    Caraturd2: 2006 DGC SE, 27k miles.
    Caraturd: 2000 DGC Sport, 126k. My first minivan, with badly rusting strut towers that ended its life prematurely. Unceremoniously junked on 7/23/2013.
    2003 Ford Focus ZX5, 5-spd. 135k.
    1987 Pontiac Fiero coupe. Runs but won't stop. | 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT. Doesn't run. | 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT (with turbocharger!) Doesn't run. See a pattern? Fieros don't work!

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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTraveller View Post
    ... I had them replace every one of the studs.
    Which, ironically, is done by pulling the lug stud through the hole with a nut.
    Caraturd2: 2006 DGC SE, 27k miles.
    Caraturd: 2000 DGC Sport, 126k. My first minivan, with badly rusting strut towers that ended its life prematurely. Unceremoniously junked on 7/23/2013.
    2003 Ford Focus ZX5, 5-spd. 135k.
    1987 Pontiac Fiero coupe. Runs but won't stop. | 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT. Doesn't run. | 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT (with turbocharger!) Doesn't run. See a pattern? Fieros don't work!

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveInColumbus View Post
    ...My wheels aren't going to fall off...
    You sure about that? It's an Escort after all (just kidding--note this is coming from someone who has owned three Escorts)
    Michael
    Centreville, VA
    Currently driving:
    2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT, 99K mi.
    Former owner of:
    1988 Dodge Caravan SE, 2.5L I4 (1988-1995, 99K mi); 1995 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE "Rallye", 3.3L (1995-2004, 169K mi); 2003 Grand Caravan Sport, 3.8L, (2004-2008, 106K mi), 2008 Nissan Quest, (2008-2010, 25K mi)

    Other vehicles:
    2008 Lexus RX400h (Dark Gray), 65K mi; 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT (Blue), 65K mi

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveInColumbus View Post
    Which, ironically, is done by pulling the lug stud through the hole with a nut.
    I've had no problem "manually" pulling new studs in place with a long handled ratchet. I can "feel" when they've bottomed out that way.
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 207,000 miles and counting ......
    333,134.21 kilometers, for you metric buffs ......
    For Sale - Make Offer


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    Well the shop I worked at we used the Impact to zip the lugs on and off, but we gave the lugs a couple threads first to make sure we weren't cross threading them. Personally I don't like using a straight impact to put the lugs on, especially when you got one with over 600 ft-lbs of torque(overkill nah). I'd prefer if I had to use an impact to at least have some torque sticks to stop the impact from gunning the lugs down at a certain torque spec, i.e. 85 ft-lbs, 95 ft-lbs, 100 ft-lbs. Honestly on my own PT I don't use a torque wrench. I just get it tight, and then a little more, and since I'm usually the only one to take the wheels on my PT on and off I know they won't be over torqued, or under torqued.

    One of my friends actually had a wheel on his Camaro that someone had torqued down so tight, that while he was driving down the freeway, the wheel broke off... or at least thats what he says
    Im 25 and my parents own a 2014 Grand Caravan R/T (3.6l, 56 miles) 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT (1.8l 76k miles 5spd), a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT(3.8l 41TE 113k miles), a 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser ((which is mine) 2.4l 116k miles 41TE), and a 2000 Ford Mustang base (3.8l, 4 spd auto 27k miles)

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny View Post
    Well the shop I worked at we used the Impact to zip the lugs on and off, but we gave the lugs a couple threads first to make sure we weren't cross threading them. Personally I don't like using a straight impact to put the lugs on, especially when you got one with over 600 ft-lbs of torque(overkill nah). I'd prefer if I had to use an impact to at least have some torque sticks to stop the impact from gunning the lugs down at a certain torque spec, i.e. 85 ft-lbs, 95 ft-lbs, 100 ft-lbs. Honestly on my own PT I don't use a torque wrench. I just get it tight, and then a little more, and since I'm usually the only one to take the wheels on my PT on and off I know they won't be over torqued, or under torqued.

    One of my friends actually had a wheel on his Camaro that someone had torqued down so tight, that while he was driving down the freeway, the wheel broke off... or at least thats what he says
    I can give names of people that have had their wheels come off because the nuts weren't tightened properly.
    A fellow employee was one and I witnessed the incident on the way to work some years back.
    I also know a Lady that had her wheel over torqued at a Dealership and managed to stop the vehicle before the wheel came off. The holes were badly chewed.
    After having someone else, such as tire service centers, work on your vehicle, get your torque wrench out and re-torque every lug nut. There's a reason for them saying to return and have the nuts checked for torque after a 100 kms. They don't even trust themselves.
    I have never had a nut loosen up that was torqued up properly. Usually they get harder to remove with time.
    As to the studs, they can take a higher torque than the 100 ft. lbs. so the concern really is about damage to the rim holes.
    Some torque ratings for bolts: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html
    This site is interesting. Click on Grade 8, 1/2" and fine thread:
    http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...que.cfm#Answer
    Here's what Discount Tire says about torque. They seem to have their own specs:
    http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...heelTorque.jsp
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

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