I have a 2009 T&C Touring with the power doors/liftgate and a couple of months ago the liftgate stopped closing using the power option. It would go up smoothly but then just not respond at all when I hit the button to close it.
I read on this forum that it might help to disconnect the battery for a while but when I did that, the liftgate started not opening properly. It will start to open about a quarter of the way and then the motor stops and the door starts bouncing up. I can hear a clicking in the motor gearbox that seems like a relay clicking on/off.
I took the lift rod off to see if maybe the motor was working too hard but it acted the same way. I finally took the van to the dealer to have them check for any computer errors or faults and see if they could help. They didn't find any error codes so they reset the software but that didn't help. They suggested lift gate strut replacements and a new liftgate motor. Their thought was the motor had a couple of dead spots on it and had worn out. They wanted nearly $1000 CAD for parts and labor so I declined.
When I got home, I decided to pull the liftgate motor out of the van and did some bench testing on it. I found that if I apply voltage to the motor it spins and runs with no issues. I also found there is a reversing solenoid in the gearbox that engages the gears to actually drive the chain. I applied voltage to that circuit while providing power to the motor and the drive mechanism works flawlessly. I can run the motor to move the chain from one end to the other and back with no issues what so ever.
I then plugged the motor back into the van and it went back to only moving a few inches and stops. This makes me feel there is something in the van's computer system telling the motor to stop rather than the motor being the source of the issue.
I would like to be able to use the power open/close option but I don't want to waste a lot of money replacing good parts, or needlessly paying the dealer.
Do any of you have any suggestions on how to proceed from here?
Is my bench testing method flawed? Is there the possibility that the computer is sensing a heavy draw from the motor and shutting it down? Would that throw an error code that could be checked by the dealer?
Is it that the computer has lost its sense of where the door is and needs the upper and lower limits reset?
Do I go ahead and buy a replacement motor and hope that helps?
I'm really at a loss on this one and could really use some expert advice.
Sorry if this is the wrong forum... I'm new around here.