The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
23K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  LEVY 
#1 ·
I began the night thinking I was going to do a complete tear down/head gasket job......as I was taking things apart, it became apparent that the leak was actually coming from the lower intake manifold (poor gasket seal in one corner with signs of/traces of leakage upon removal of the gasket and manifold).

Anyways, on to my dillema - as I was cleaning the manifold, there was some pitting on one side (same side the leak/poor gasket seal was on - surprise, surprise)........is there a way to "fix" the manifold? I know I can take it in and have it machined, or just get a new one, but I am looking for a more cost effective "fix". Can I use RTV, let it set and then match it up with the valley gasket? Is there some kind of aluminum "filler" that you suggest (other than JB weld)? The leak wasn't that severe, so another option would be to just leave it as is and put it back together.

Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
The pitting is not that widespread and is isolated to a small area where the jacket/gasket meet up with the head at a spot (door/opening) where the coolant has eaten away at the aluminum. Thinking of just sealing off that opening.
 
#3 ·
If any repair was going to work, it would be high temp epoxy (like jb) and sand it smooth with a piece of sand paper on a smooth surface like glass. Then use a little rtv on the gasket on both sides on installation.
 
#4 ·
What was the problem, leaking coolant? Where was it leaking? You could indeed fill in the pits with epoxy, then use Ultra Grey RTV to seal everything up when you put it back together. The grey has excellent coolant resistance. (Andy beat me to the post)
 
#5 ·
Yes, there was a slight/minor leak of coolant near where the head and block come together - pooling up a bit. This is what lead me to believe that I had a head gasket leak (but my van was running fine/stable and was having no temperature issues - internally (heat and AC) or with engine temp). Upon removal, it became evident that my problem was with the lower intake (valley) gasket.

Thanks guys...........I am hesitant to fill it and sand it (i.e. jb weld) simply because I am afraid that I won't be able to get it 100% smooth and flat again, thereby causing the problem to be worse, or simply in another spot/area (where it isn't dead nuts flat/smooth). Like I said, the pitting is right around one of the open areas (i.e. boxes/rectangles) where the coolant "lives".....so, I am leaning towards putting some of the Ultra Grey RTV around the edges to seal it up (where there is pitting). Sorry for the description - I am not very well versed technically speaking. ;) haha

I realize that this is more of a band-aid/crutch, but at the end of the day, this is a van with 140,000 miles that is worth only a couple of grand. Sure, I want it to last for a while yet, but it is disposable. ;)

I already put a bead of RTV in the four corners (as is typical/instructed)...........anywhere else I should put some (understanding that more is not always better)? It sounds like the grey is the color/kind I should go with if near the coolant (per PTXer)........this is better than say, the black?

Thanks, guys!
 
#6 ·
How about this, do the rtv the "make-a-gasket" way. Put thin (but noteable) coats on both sides of the gasket, assemble the parts with the bolts only finger snug. Wait 3 hours then tighten them up. The rtv should fill the pits and then be leak free when the bolts are torqued down and the rtv is hard enough ot not squeeze out anymore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dun4now
#7 ·
#8 · (Edited)
It looks like both will work (grey and ultra blue).... as they both mention intake manifold end seals (as does the black, which I used in the corners of the valley). Any opinions as to which will hold up to the coolant better? Or, what about the Blue sensor safe one? Confused now....haha

http://www.permatex.com/documents/GasketMakerSelector.pdf
 
#9 ·
UPDATE -

I just spoke with a representative from Permatex and this is what I was told, in a nutshell (maybe it will help someone else out there)......

I explained my situation, and he immediately suggested Hylomar (Part No 85249)
http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ng_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/85249.pdf

I asked about the other products (grey, blue, etc.)....he indicated that those are silicone based and are really ment to be gasket "makers"..... it sounded as if I just needed a gasket "sealer" thus the Hylomar. He went on to say that I could use the silicone products, but they are moreless overkill for my useage. He further said that given the application, I should put it on and sinch things up right away, don't put it on and let it set before things are tighten/torqued up (although this is the correct way to put a pan or something together).
 
#10 ·
I always use the high temp red or black, never have troubles. I don't think it really matters on an engine as everywhere but the exhaust ports stay under 250*.
 
#12 ·
68 Honda,

I apologize, but I don't recall exactly what product I went with on this fix (was quite a while ago). If I had to guess, I would lean toward the suggestion by the members from this board....I do remember that it didn't really seem like one was a "better" solution than the others.

Whatever I used worked well.....I took the van on a long road trip as soon as it was put back together, drove it another 8K or so, and then sold it.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but I can say that it is able to be band-aided back together without any short term leaks.

Good luck!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top