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Parking brake stuck?

57K views 48 replies 18 participants last post by  Chrysler1924 
#1 ·
Hi gang, Just purchased a 97 Town & Country. I quickly found out that the parking brake would not hold. I removed both rear wheels and found the rear cable ends were not connected to either rear wheel. I connected them and the parking brake will not engage. I know the cables are not seized because I can pull them. I cannot move the lever that the cable connects to, therefore I cannot press the parking braking pedal. Anyone run into this before?
 
#2 ·
I just came in from doing the rear parking brakes on my 98 T & C.
I'll turn 50 soon, so suffice it to say, I am sore and beat up right now, but I now have great knowledge.

My T & C has AWD, 4 wheel disks (the parking brakes are drum), and Nivomat suspension. I'm the 2nd owner and the old girl has 152K on it. (I got it 3 years ago with 128K)

The three major components of this parking brake system are
1) The parking brake pedal.
2) The parking brake cable.
3) The parking brakes themselves.

My particular symptoms were as follows (the van came with them... I am just now getting around to fixing it):
Pedal would engage the brakes but the brakes would not release with the pedal. They'd squeal like crazy, it almost sounded like a broken spring was wedged in somelpace. Upon inspection, the cables were disconnected from the levers behind the brake backplates and the shoes were cooked and cracked.

Diagnosis: The cable was fine. I became disconnected from the levers because the levers were rusty and would not release the brakes hence the noise and cooked shoes. Since the levers were not releasing, they would not keep tension on the cable and the cable would fall off the hooks. It finally was caught during a recent state inspection.

How to fix: Spend a lot of money on parts and wait for nice weather. The parts are as follows:
1) Shoes from NAPA around $75.00
2) Spring kit from Chrysler around $30 to $35.
3) Lever kit from Chrylser around $30 t $35.
4) New cotter pins

Weird tools:
1) Torque wrench (Yeah right)
2) Factory Service Manual (worth all $90.00)
3) 1/2 inch breaker bar
4) A seven foot long pipe
5) Heavy leather gloves (trust me)

Socket sizes
1) Hub nut: 1/2 drive, 1-1/4 hex
2) Bearing Hub Bolts: 1/2 drive, 18mm
3) Speed Sensor: 3/8 drive, 10mm

Allen sizes
1) Caliper: 6mm
2) Shoe retainers: 4.5 or 5.0mm (I forget)

Disclaimer: This is very dangerous work and should only be attempted by very advanced shade tree mechanics. I will not go into details about proper jacking and vehicle support. This is not an all inclusive procedure. Your vehicle may differ. Don't sue me. This is only a story about what I did this afternoon while listening to the Eagles game.

What has to be done: you will have to remove the bearing hub. You may want to bail right here.

1) Crack lug nuts

2) Chock, jack and support vehicle

3) Remove wheel and knock out the center cap (If equipped)

4) Remove hub nut cotter pin and castle retainer

5) Replace wheel

6) Lower vehicle onto tire

7) Slip 7 ft. pipe over breaker bar and use 18mm socket to crack hub nut loose only (do not backoff or remove)

8) Raise vehicle and support again

9) Remove wheel again

10) Remove and safely support caliper...remove the rotor.

11) Remove speed sensor

12) Remove bearing hub nut and washer

13) The service manual says to diconnect the parking brake cable. I left it on until later. It was just easier that way. I have a dirt driveway and not a lift. I never cawl under the vehicle no matter how well it is supported. It's just not worth it. (After all, an emergency room visit is at least a $200.00 deductable).

14) Spray the bearing hub bolt threads where they come through the outside of the backplate with WD-40 or Tri-Flow Teflon spray. You'll need the lubrication when backing out the bolts. I am real sore from those things today.

15) Remove the Bearing Hub bolts. First, break them with a breaker bar and the 18mm socket. Then continue to back them out with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a six inch extension. WEAR THE GLOVES.
16) Slide the whole mess off the axle.

17) You'll probably have to punch the hub out of the backplate at this time (use a block of wood.)

18) You may now replace the shoes springs and levers...WEAR GOGGLES. Totally back off the adjuster. You are on your own, You may want a helper at this time (2 sets of goggles). I did it by myself but then again, I used to repair clocks. This is an intricate task. Draw pictures, take notes, lay out the old parts, take photos...whatever it takes to do this right. You don't want to have to do all this work twice.

19) I tend to lubricate brake parts (don't overdo it or you'll contaminate the shoes and pads and maybe lose your brakes...be smart). Remember, the original culprit here is the rusted and siezed levers. I put lithium grease on the pivot points.

20) Put it all back together. You'll have to do that whole double dance with the wheel again. This is because of two problems:
A) the wheel on the ground holds the axle in place while you loosen and tighten the Hub Nut.
B) You can't replace the cotter pin (use a new one) while the wheel is on the vehicle (at least not with my thick alloy wheels).

A bit of advice...Now would be a good time to replace the half shafts, bearing hubs, brake shoes, rotors...what's in your wallet?

It took me around 8 hours...I'm gettin' too old for this.

My pedal ratchet still has issues. I fixed the brakes first because I knew they were definitely bad and was hoping that the proper operation of the system would help out the pedal. The pedal cannot be properly diagnosed without the rest of the system working properly.

Torque reference (your vehicle may vary)

Speed Sensor: 105 Inch LBS (9 Ft. LBS???)

Brake Caliper: 192 Inch LBS. (16 Ft. LBS???)

Bearing Hub Bolts: 95 Ft. LBS

Bearing Hub Nut: 180 Ft. LBS

Lug Nuts: 95 Ft. LBS

It was fun

Now then, can anyone pulleeese tell me how to remove and replace the rear jounce bumpers on this thing? I have bright new yellow ones in a bag laughing at me right now as I type this.

I'm goin' to Moes.

Paul G. Celentano
 
#9 ·
... It was fun
Nice writeup! Too bad I didn't find it until after my identical repair for the identical reasons. (Mine's a 2001.) I DID find AutoZone's Repair Info for a 1999 very helpful (especially 98tac's step 18) and very similar to 98tac's writeup. (An Impact Wrench made short order of the Hub Nuts, and Bearing Hub Bolts removal.)
While apart, I replaced a leaking LH Differential's Outer Flange Seal.

... Now then, can anyone pulleeese tell me how to remove and replace the rear jounce bumpers on this thing? I have bright new yellow ones in a bag laughing at me right now as I type this.
The RH side one? Mine broke off after finagling the half shaft back in and I need to order a replacement.
 
#3 ·
My 1996 currently has that problem in that the parking brake will not engage/hold. Instead of thinking about the obvious, I got the wheels off to see if those cables were indeed connect, and sure enough they were and everything appeared hunky-dory with the rear drums.

...that's when I thought about the actual parking brake pedal mechanism.

Sure enough, the ratchet mechanism itself failed (presumably from the pedal slamming forward when the release handle was pulled). The dealer wants major $$$ for just the new pedal/ratchet mechanism.

I haven't fixed it as that particular van isn't going to be driven until December. However, I use the parking brake whenever I park my 2000. Instead of simply pulling the release and allowing the pedal to slam forward, I ease it back with my foot to prevent auto-destruct of said mechanism.
 
#4 ·
I have had the same problem with the parking brake actuaters (2000 T&C LXI AWD) Dealer replaced them twice under warrenty. The end of the cable would pop off, then once the cable was placed back on the hook of the actuator the brake would stick on.
I am cheap. I took the assembly appart and put the actuator in a vise. I worked it until it was free (first with a hammer, then a vise grip, then fingers). Once free, I packed a liberal amount of Never Seize in it and re-assembled. I did this on both sides. My cheap fix has worked better and lasted longer than the two dealer repairs with new parts!
 
#5 ·
I did bang mine around with a hammer. Got one free and the other was hopeless. The one I got free still doesn't have as much swing as the new one. Maybe I'll take them to the shop at work and use a bigger hammer.

Yeah, the parking pedal is my next endeavor. Will keep you all posted with procedures etc. I have to get it done for inspection before the end of the month.
 
#8 ·
And now, the long awaited "how to" chronicle of replacing the parking brake pedal assembly. There comes a time in every man's life when he has to replace one. First things first...get the parking brake assemblies on the rear wheels and the parking brake cable working first (see above).

Disconnect the battery.

Use a door clip removal tool to remove the plastic sill trim. Remove the kick panel (just pull on it).

Remove the fuse access cover (two twist lock fasteners).

Remove 5 Phillips head screws on the plastic steering column cover below the steering wheel. In addition to the 5 screws, there are 2 clips. Just pull out (gently). You will not be able to remove the cover at this time. You must first disconnect the release cable from the release handle. You can now remove the cover.

Lock out the parking brake cable under the van by grasping the front cable and pulling the cable toward the rear of the vehicle. Lock it in place with a pair of vise grips butted up against a frame rail. This allows you to disconnect the front cable from the two rear cables at the cable equalizer. Disconnect the cable and then remove the vise grip and allow the front cable to relax.

Scribe the reinforcement plate located behind the steering column cover. The scribe marks will aid in re-assembly and alignment. Unbolt the 10 bolts from the cover (10mm) and the one large Phillips head screw and remove the cover.

Unbolt the hood release handle (2 Bolts, 10mm). Remove the cross bracket which held the hood release handle in place (3 Bolts, 10mm).

DID YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY YET?

Remove two Phillips head screws attaching the OBD terminal and remove terminal. Remove three bolts (10mm) hold the fuse blocks in place. MARK AND LABEL the two harnesses at the fuse block AND DOUBLE CHECK LABELS. They are polarized but it is still possible to put them back in the wrong sockets. To remove them, simply squeeze the white lever tabs and they slide right out...no need to break the black clip like I did (It worked out OK). Move fuse blocks to the side as needed (gently).

Remove the three bolts (lower, then forward, then upper) that hold the brake pedal assembly in place (10mm). Disconnect the brake light wire from the pedal assembly. Wiggle whole mess from under the dash.

Bend the metal away from the cable anchor on the pulley and remove the cable anchor from the pedal assembly. You must still remove the cable jacket from the pedal assembly bracket. There is a funny little retainer here. And by the way, I forget which of these two procedures you do first but it’s not too bad. Remove the brake release cable.

INTERMISSION. Right about now a panicky wife yells out the back door about the dishwasher leaking water everywhere. Leaving every tool I own scattered about my surgically dismantled minivan in full view of the neighborhood thieves, I walk to the house, enter the kitchen, look at the water on the floor, turn around, and go back outside. END OF INTERMISSION.

The cause of the pedal assembly failure was not due so much that it had worn out, it was simply doomed to fail due to poor quality. The ratchet pawl was mounted on a sloppy pivot and would not get enough bite on the ratchet and would then slip. I believe that the new one has tighter tolerances...time will tell. I greased everything with lithium grease.

Now to put it all back together. DO NOT REMOVE THE LOCKING PINS UNTIL TOLD TO DO SO!!! There are 2 of them…one for the parking brake release mechanism and another for the auto adjust mechanism.

Install the cable into the pedal mechanism with the funny retainer and place the end of the cable into the pulley mechanism and lock into place by bending the tab in to keep it from popping out.

Install the brake light wire and brake release cable. Place the assembly in position.

Remove the lock pin for the brake release mechanism.

Install the three mounting bolts…do no tighten…first the top, then the forward, then the lower. Then tighten them to 250 Inch Pounds.

Be sure the parking brake pedal is fully released and reinstall the cable under the vehicle using the vise grip procedure.

Remove the locking pin from the auto adjust mechanism.

Curse the world because you just noticed that the cable fell off the right rear wheel’s parking brake actuator…Grrr. I was able to get it back on with a little persuasion from a screwdriver and without pinching my fingertips. It helps to have the spare tire removed and out of the way.

At this point, see if the parking brake system works and replace everything you took apart in the reverse order. You may now get your vehicle to pass inspection and come up with some sort of scheme to pay off your credit card that you melted down for all of these brake parts.

The parking brake works pretty well, probably goot enough for the boat ramp, though if feels kinda wimpy. I'll let them break in and then go back and adjust the shoes in the spring.

I'm goin' to Moe's
 
#24 · (Edited)
This part is throwing me....

Remove three bolts (10mm) hold the fuse blocks in place. MARK AND LABEL the two harnesses at the fuse block AND DOUBLE CHECK LABELS. They are polarized but it is still possible to put them back in the wrong sockets. To remove them, simply squeeze the white lever tabs and they slide right out...no need to break the black clip like I did (It worked out OK). Move fuse blocks to the side as needed (gently).

Here is a pic of my fuse box.. I see two 10mm bolts (indicated with yellow arrows) but no 3rd bolt? Anyone know specifically where these 3 bolts in question are located? Are these two I've marked two of them?

For the benefit of someone unfamiliar with this area of the dash...the e-brake assembly is indicated by the Red arrow

thx



 
#10 ·
Aren't those rear disk parking brake set ups a lot of fun to work on? :biggrin:

They do need regular use and regular maintenace. See my signature.

You guys have posted a lot of good stuff. Hope it gets the attention it deserves.
 
#11 ·
Aren't those rear disk parking brake set ups a lot of fun to work on? :biggrin:

They do need regular use and regular maintenace. See my signature:

"Use your emergency brake often - it will save you in repair $."
But does such use actually make a difference on the 'shoes inside the rotor' parking brakes, or do they always need manual adjusting by removing the rotor (because the star adjuster is not accessible otherwise without removing the whole hub and backing plate)?
I don't see any automatic adjusters in them like conventional rear drum brakes have.
 
#12 ·
The independent p-brake system doesn't compensate for wear via adjusters like the main brake system. The p-brakes are not used to slow a vehicle in motion, but simply to hold one already stopped. The shoe material should barely wear out (unless it is left on while driving, or used for waaay too many bootleg u-turns...). You just want to keep the pivot/slide points from binding up.

-Jim
 
#14 ·
Still haven't fooled with the Jouncers yet.

The wife left the parking brake on and toasted and cracked the new shoes.
I noticed that she had done this when she pulled up in the T and C while she gave me grief about having to pick me up on a cold day when I was stranded in her Taurus with a bad starter and no jacket.

Do I need new cars or just a new wife?

Anyhow, I did eventually adjust the now cracked shoes and am now able to launch the 12 foot aluminum cake pan I call my boat.
 
#15 ·
As I read this post (lot's of good information here), I have a question regarding my 2007 (I believe set-up should be similar to Gen III):

I've noticed that when I apply the parking brake, I the feel the pedal travel and I feel it taking up the slack in the cable. However, as I get to the end the pedal's travel, I will feel it "Clack" and it provides no further tension. It's not that the pedal becomes loose, just that I no longer feel the tension.

In other words, at the end of the pedal's travel I don't feel the usual tightness as the system tightens everything up. Is it harmful to continue to push down pedal once I no longer feel the tension? I find myself pushing pedal only a bit so that I don't hear the "clack."

This only started happening recently. I know that the pads are getting low (but still within specs). Is this normal?
 
#16 ·
If you have rear disk brakes, there is a pinned connection where the steel lever, that connects to the brake cable, is joined to (sandwiched between) a two piece steel brake actuater. This is a fairly tight fit and it doesn't take much rust in the sandwiched connection to seize things up. I have sprayed Rust Check (WD-40 should do) through the area around where the lever goes through the backing plate, to coat the pinned connection inside with penetrating lubricant, left it for a bit to penetrate, and then hit the level with a hammer to move it. I then pushed the lever ahead enough to slacken the cable to get the cable off, and then went to work on the lever, tapping with a hammer as necessary, to ensure it moved well back and well forward, spraying more lubricant when at the two locations. Once happy that things were well freed up, I put the cable back on. This is a temporary fix, and if light lubricant (as above) is applied every two or three months (get under vehicle and spray through the lever hole in the backing plate as above) and the emergency brake is used regularly to keep it from seizing, may last indefinitely. The more permanent fix would be the disassembly (painful task if brakes are a mess inside) and lubrication of the lever mechanism with anti-seize or high temperature brake lube. I have anti-seize on mine and it seems to be working well.
 
#17 ·
Thanks Jeepman.

Maybe I should have specified that this van is really less than two years old and with only 13,000 miles on it. Yes I have disc brakes in the rear. I don't think things could be that badly rusted but I will check.

I guess my concern is should there be a change in how the e-brake pedal "feels" as you apply the e-brake once the pads are getting low.
 
#18 ·
Im' not sure if this is what you mean, but my pedal will sometimes give suddenly as if something has slipped. I then release the parking brake and set it again this time with a firm pedal. It might be a self adjustment thing, the nature of the beast, or something evil. I can still launch my boat. Will check the owners manual and let you know.

Paul C. The parking brake rebuild guy.
 
#20 ·
holy sheeeez
it is a parking brake not a novel, what kind of brakes these vans have, I had my fair share of brake trouble, but nothing worth writing a novel about, It's just brakes or am I retarded and chrysler unnecesary overengineered them to be weird?
 
#21 ·
That pedal still does the "collapse" thing now and then. I just release them and set them a second time. Weird...nature of the beast. There is nothing in the manual about this problem. It is now 01-10-10 and the parking brakes still work. I'll grease them up in the spring. Like the other poster said, "Use 'em or lose 'em."

By them way, I wimped out on the jouncers and had the shop remove them when it was in for inspection. They had to use an air chisel to spin them out. OUCH!. Only charged me $30.00.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Here is a photo of the complete eBrake assembly


There are two main mechanisms at work as far as I can tell....
The Ratchet mechanism which keeps the pedal locked in place as you depress it.
And the Cable Slack Governor (as I call it anyway) which I believe is designed to
keep the cable from bunching up and getting caught up in the system as you release
the pedal.


Another angle...



So, from what I can gather, the pedal locking mechanism simply holds the pedal in position and keeps it from popping back at ya.
The Cable Slack Governor keeps tension on the cable to keep it from have excess slack inside the ebrake assembly and causing trouble.
If EITHER one goes bad, the ebrakes might fail. How can you tell which it is? Seems to me if it's the pedal lock mechanism, the pedal will pop back at ya whereas if its
just the slack control, the pedal can stay put but the ebrakes will not hold properly and you might feel the pedal lose its pressure and go to the floor (but not pop back up or out.

Hope all this helps someone. It sure is fun learning all about this great vehicle.
Can you tell I'm proud of my photos, came out pretty good I must say lol :help_wsig
 
#28 ·
Hmmmm....small technical difficulty?

Seems the cable is not lining up. The position of the hole for the cable end slug is about 180 degrees different from where it was on the one I removed. I took this as an indication that I had found the problem....broken cable slack governor faulty. But what am I missing here?

 
#29 ·
Ok,
slowly we learn.
The New units have a clip that holds the spring loaded slack governor in place until you have the cable on and ready.

It is a big mistake to remove that pin BEFORE you have the cable secured in place. Fortunately, I did (whew)

Looking good so far.
 
#30 ·
For anyone having e-Brake problems, Mine are working superbly now. Turns out it was in fact the e-brake pedal assembly that had gone bad. Specifically, the cable slack governor or cable slack take-up reel. The ratchet teeth and cog were fine on mine and I was NOT having the problem where my pedal was popping back up ever.

My symptoms were as I depressed the ebrake pedal, it would feel normal to a point then feel as though it kind of "let go" and fell to the fell with no more pedal resistance. In my case, this was the cable slack governor inside the ebrake assembly.

It's all a learning experience.

How difficult a job was it in my opinion? Not difficult.

I would MUCH rather replace an ebrake pedal assembly than change the 3 rear spark plugs without a doubt. This job just requires figuring out a few little "tricks" and then it's quite simple.

Time involved...approximately 2 hours from start to finish if you take your time. it could probably be dome in 1.5 hours if you knew what you were doing.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for the info. Ugh. Now I have to do what you did, THREE times.

Once for my 2000 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.
Once for my 1996 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.
Once for mom's 1996 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.

<fumes> Of course this was the only mechanic problem the new 3rd Gen had... couldn't have been something easily fixed with say popping out the IOD fuse for a night.

Time to go back over your posts and study them... I got lost somewhere between finding the hiding bolt amongst the fuse box, and the cable link discrepancy...
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the info. Ugh. Now I have to do what you did, THREE times.

Once for my 2000 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.
Once for my 1996 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.
Once for mom's 1996 where the blasted pedal failed and flies back up.
Dang that Colorado living must take a toll on your brakes. I recommend pushing down on the ebrake pedal with you foot before pulling the release and then letting the pedal go up with your leg controlling it. It eliminates the wear on the ratchet teeth that happens when you just rip the release and it bangs back up.
 
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