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Replacing Rear spark plugs on 1998 T&C AWD

54K views 54 replies 26 participants last post by  shipo 
#1 ·
How do you replace the rear three spark plugs on 1998 Town and Country AWD. My 1992 I replaced from below the car. My 2001 Town Country AWD, I replace from the top with great pain. The 1998 town & country AWD looks like if I remove the altenator and Intake manifold and mass air flow and Air filter, I could do it. How do the PROS do it.

P.S. My 5 feet long, one foot wide noise head liner under the wipers and ducts is coming down and touching the aluminum intake manifold. Any ideas how to hold it backup. don't see any old glue or clips used.
 
#2 ·
I paid to have mine done after buying my 99 gran voy expresso{1st minivan}...had meineke do it. They removed the top intake section then removed the throttle body from it. I had them replace the valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, clean the injectors and a new fuel filter..for only $950.00 +/-. Looking back I'd try it myself next time, just make sure you get the right upper gasket as they had to try 4 times with they're supplier to get it right.
 
#3 ·
I have a '99 front drive and I do all the rears from below, using wobble extensions, regular extensions of different lengths, and a plug wrench. Van front is on jack stands. I don't know if the addition of all wheel drive makes that harder. I have large hands, so while being a knuckle buster, it's still possible to do. The front sparky, under the alternator, is the hardest, and some people remove the bracket to do this one from the top. Others remove the wiper cover and go from the top.

Spark plug wire removal is also hard. You need those special, long pliers to seperate the wire from the plug without damaging the wire. I think mine came from Harbor Freight. If you change the wires, forum advice favors either MOPAR or NAPA brand wires.

I wish you much good luck because it's a PITA job. Don't be afraid of doing it yourself, just be aware it will take a few hours, with lots of cursing. All this is assuming the AWD doesn't interfere with getting under/around the rear exhaust pipe from underneath. If so, that would make it a from the top job with lots of stuff to remove.

I found on my van that the front rear plug was the original, the other two rears were not matching brands with the front side plugs. I would guess the $tealer never serviced the front plug, so make sure they actually change all the plugs, if you farm the job out.
 
#4 ·
Ok, say you've got a Front Wheel Drive, 3.3L up on jack stands. I understand that it's possible to remove and replace the spark plugs/wires in the rear from underneath the van, but how are you supposed to see what you're doing? Is it possible to complete the entire thing by feel? I guess I'd be worried about cracking the plugs and having them get stuck inside the block.
 
#5 ·
Check the search feature.. there are several posts on this out there.. but basically yes can get them from underneath with a few creative socket / extension / driver combos... If you were considering the intake removal, do the wiper tray and or the alternator instead.. both will help without intake removal.. I usually do the serp belt at the same time so the alternator is just a couple more bolts ..
If you are taking the intake off.. do the rear valve cover gasket at the same time..
never used any special wire removal tool... so far no problems.. but I am curious to hear more about that one..
 
#6 ·
It is hard to see the front plug and from underneath and you are doing this one by feel. The middle and rear are visible enough. I used a rubber hose over the ceramic end to insert and start the plugs. It's tricky again on number one. Don't forget to use anti-seize on all the plug threads.

The wire removal tool I use are called spark plug terminal pliers. Available from Harbor Freight (PN 32867) and the auto box stores. They make wire removal easier and you don't crack the wire on aging hardened wires/boots. A bit of dielectric grease in the boot helps removal the next time someone does the job.

The most popular sparkys on the forums for these vans are Champion, either copper or double platinum's. A minority use NGK or Autolite double platinum's. I always use platinum's because they go about 100K before you need to change them.
 
#7 ·
When you say 'front' I presume you mean the front of the engine (by all the pulleys).. yes that one is hard to get.. that's why I do the belt and pop the alternator... then you can get it... if the wiper cowl is off as well.. its quite easy to get..
 
#8 ·
I chose to do it the hard way - removing the intake plenum. Most everything is pretty straightforward and simple to remove, but a couple of tips:

1) MARK AND REMOVE THE VACUUM LINES. These are hard plastic lines that Chrysler is VERY proud of. Two of the longer ones run about $60 each. One of the real shorty lines (from EGR to intake plenum) is about $17. Surprisingly expensive little parts. If you break them (I did), you can either pay through the nose or splice in some flexible vacuum tubing.

2) There are two bolts behind the intake plenum that hold a sheet metal plate into which some clips routing electrical wires snap into. I suppose you might be able to unclip these wires, but access is extremely limited (even with wiper cowl removed), so not sure. I chose to remove this plate, and the bolts holding this non-structural part in were surprisingly large (and hence tight) and I had to create some additional leverage in very cramped space. It is during this step while contorting one's body to attain the necessary leverage that breaking of the earlier-mentioned vacuum lines will tend to occur.

3) Be VERY careful with the aluminum heat shields (the ones installed on each spark plug boot) so that you don't damage them. Replacements are not available from the local parts store OR from the dealer. You'll have to either live with the damage, or go to the junkyard if the current ones are damaged. One of mine was a bit damaged, but reusable. I plan on putting it on the front, in case I ever find a replacement.

After removing all this stuff (I even removed the fuel rail, since I was replacing valve cover gaskets at the same time), it gives very easy access to all the spark plugs, such that you can easily clean out any grime from the spark plug area BEFORE removing the old spark plugs. Also makes it easy to torque the new spark plugs, something that I think would be nearly impossible trying to do it from underneath.

Chad
 
#9 ·
Metal heat shields on spark plug boots were installed at the factory on 1996 and 1997 3.3/3.8 engines, but went away in 1998. If replacement wires come w/o heat shields, there's no real need to reinstall them. On the other hand, you can buy a replacement set with heat shields. Two brands I know are Prestolite (OEM) and Delco.
 
#10 ·
I changed mine from underneath. It was nice comfortable weather, I was in no rush. Didn't need any jacks.
No you can't see what you are doing, it is all done by feel.
I gave the boots a twist, the wires came off. The plugs were loosened with a rubber insert spark plug socket, then the plugs were removed by hand with my fingers.
Installed new plugs with my finger using a section of plastic hose, they screwed in very easily, then I snugged them up with the socket wrench.
When I got tired from stretching my arm, I took a rest.
Before I screwed in new plugs, I used a shop vac to suck up any dirt.
When I was all done, I used a mirror to check everything.
Yes my arms and hands got filthy dirty and a few small scrapes on my knuckles. I did it at 125,000 miles, original plugs. The center electrodes were worn down, but no "lead" deposits like in the old days.
No way would I do it in cold or rainy weather.
 
#11 ·
Metal heat shields on spark plug boots were installed at the factory on 1996 and 1997 3.3/3.8 engines, but went away in 1998. If replacement wires come w/o heat shields, there's no real need to reinstall them. On the other hand, you can buy a replacement set with heat shields. Two brands I know are Prestolite (OEM) and Delco.
That's surprising - There's very specific "grooves" in the spark plug boot that mate into the metal heat shield. You'd think that if the factory didn't intend you to re-use the heat shields that they would've done away with these grooves, which is not the case (Both Mopar & Napa brand have these "grooves" in the new plug wires). Just adds to the confusion.
 
#13 ·
I'll tell you how to change the rear plugs. Take it to the shop.
Unless you got a rack to put it up on so you can get underneath.
Even then it's a pain in the rear, especially if the motor is hot.
Also you need some strange long tools to even reach the little rascals.
I tried this two times and wound up paying someone to do just the back three! Every time I got laughed at. Apparently it's a common thing for them to see...
 
#16 ·
If the timing belt is where I think it is (physically inside the engine block,) then I totally agree with you.
 
#22 ·
I Can See..


Ha! After looking at your background I see why it's no big deal to you. You are a mechanic.
Just worrying about damaging the plug wires is scary to me. 1st, You need a tool that I don't have, and you CANNOT see what the heck you are pulling on.
I think one dealer mechanic damaged my plug wires to start with, then told me I needed new wires. I had no choice but to pay.
I just say let someone else do this for the best chance.
It might be safer to remove whatever necessary to see what the heck you are doing vs. working underneath by "feel".
 
#17 ·
No timing belt on the 3.3/3.8 but it was still a good example. I can tell that you have never done a timing belt on a 3.0L. I KNOW you would remember that job. :help_wsig
 
#18 ·
Hm, interesting. I remember one of my very first posts on this forum was about a "chain running" sound that my 1996 makes... how when it idles it sounds like what a bicycle chain sounds like when its moving. And someone posted that it's the timing belt. Oh well.
 
#19 ·
No belt in there. Timing chain is more durable and needs less maintenance. Not to say that a timing chain NEVER needs maintenance but it usually does not need changed. However if you have 150,000 + miles and do alot of hard driving, you may have a streatched chain. It can streatch enough that it can cause problems when starting.
 
#20 ·
I can tell that you have never done a timing belt on a 3.0L. I KNOW you would remember that job
I haven't done a timing belt on a 3.0L, but an '85 & '92 Honda Accord. Yup, you remember those ones.

I think the perception of difficulty is partially due to peoples' time constraints - need to finish the job in a weekend, which effectively requires all parts to be on hand when you start the job, something that can be VERY difficult to attain when it's your first time doing that job on that particular vehicle. In my case, it hasn't been a big deal if I didn't finish the job on the weekend since I have a backup vehicle, and each part of the entire job is pretty simple if you think about it a little bit.

I don't really view changing the plugs as "difficult", but definitely time consuming. I think people probably get into it a little bit and then realize that there's more removal than expected, and they're not prepared to spend that kind of time working on it. For me, I wanted to ensure I could easily see everything I was working on, and torque everything when I put it back together - hence I removed the air intake plenum and associated bits. Not hard to do at all, but time consuming. The two bolts on the back of the intake plenum (non-structural, just hold a wire-routing bracket) take a little while to get off (and the only two bolts I was not able to torque properly during re-assembly) , but other than that, everything that needs to be removed is fairly easy to get at. Probably about $20-30 in gaskets that need to be replaced as well.
 
#21 ·
I agree with you Chad. The timing belt on the 3.0L is not difficult, but VERY time consuming. Lots to remove to get to it and the same to replace when finishing.
 
#23 ·
Ha! After looking at your background I see why it's no big deal to you. You are a mechanic.
Don't get me wrong. Just because I am a mechanic does not make it an easy job. I say that it is no big thing BECAUSE I know what I am getting into when I do the job. Almost all the work from underneath is by feel. I have done the job enough that I know what I am looking for and other things like I know the angle to turn the plugs when finding the hole to put them back in. Little things that come with repetition does not make the job EASY. People who have never done it before go in with much apprehension and that does not help.
 
#24 ·
From a newbe. Thanks to all for the info. It sure helped with the frustration in getting these 3 plugs. I certainly helped to make the job a bit more peaceful knowing that it was Chrysler that designed a system where 3 plugs could not bea easily changed & not something that I was missing or not doing properly. The tips on the wobble extension, spinner & plug socket with integral universal were helpful in that I knew that to make the change from the underside, I had to purchase a few more tools. The time estiamtes were about right for the 2 b'tch plugs.
 
#25 ·
How do you replace the rear three spark plugs on 1998 Town and Country AWD.
It's almost impossible without special tools. You have to go in thru the tail pipe with a special camera tool, and all the way up into the engine backwards. The special camera tool screws the three rear plugs out from the inside of the engine.
They plop out underneath the motor. Getting the new ones back in is even worse.:lol:
 
#27 ·
It's almost impossible without special tools.
Isn't that one of the best reasons to do these things yourself? Gives us a REASON to buy all sorts of new tools, neatly justified to the spouse by all the money you save over taking it into the shop. I'm thinking if I do a full engine swap sometime, I might convince her that we need an electric hoist in the garage!
 
#26 ·
It's almost impossible without special tools. You have to go in thru the tail pipe with a special camera tool, and all the way up into the engine backwards. The special camera tool screws the three rear plugs out from the inside of the engine.
They plop out underneath the motor. Getting the new ones back in is even worse.
MAKE SURE you attach the new plugs to the internal mounted magnet correctly or you will not beable to properly torque them back into the hole when installing them. After they are tight, three clicks of the wrist is the proper torque for the plugs. It is usually 2 clicks but with the excess length of the tool, going up thru the tailpipe, the extra click is needed.


OR, you could reach up , by hand , and insert the plugs like most of us non-techno geeks who do not have your special tools. :rolleyes:
 
#31 ·
I don't care how high you put it or what temperature it is or how many rubber socket extentions you have.. It ain't easy.
I say pay someone who does it every day.:bcyclop:
 
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