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Fuel Pump Longevity

8K views 14 replies 12 participants last post by  atoman 
#1 · (Edited)
2003 T&C with 86,000+ miles----What is the consensus regarding fuel pump reliability? Would it behoove an owner to change it at some milestone?
 
#2 ·
The fuel pumps in these dont seem to be an issue....now the Fords and GMs,thats another story...

My 88 Aries had 94,000 miles when I bought it,it was still the OEM pump when I changed it.It was made by Bosch.The new Bosch are now made by Walbro (makers of the horrid Lauson/Tecumseh carburetors).
 
#4 ·
I changed my 1990 after 120kmiles, that one failed (actually fell apart in the tank) within a month, and again at 190kmiles. The "fuel filter" is now a part of the pump assembly on newer GEN's, whereas mine has a "pre-screen" at the pump, and an in-line filter half way to the engine. So if you want to be "pro-active", instead of "re-active", consider around every 100kmiles (pretend it's a "timing belt"). :blink:
 
#5 ·
We've now had three DGCs that have gone 140,000 (and counting), 170,000 (traded in), and 180,000 (and counting) miles without a single fuel pump or fuel filter issue. My philosophy, if it fails, I'll fix it; in the meantime I couldn't be bothered to worry about it. ;)
 
#6 ·
Keep gas in the tank and never worry about it. The people who run it empty and only throw in $10 at a time are more likely to need a pump. I fill mine up and run it down to empty, that practice helps the pump live a long life.
 
#7 ·
If it was a GM product, I'd say you are past due. I've owned almost dozen Chrysler products from years 1990 to 1999. Never had a single issue and I rarely ever see them go out at the shop. As long as you don't run it dry and on empty all the time (really hard on a fuel pump) it should last a good long time.
 
#9 ·
I can understand the "If it ain't broke don't fix it", however, If I'm going on a trip and have that many miles on a known part that is prone to failure after so many miles/100k+ (and not easy to replace "on the road"), I'd seriously consider being "Pro-Active", than "Re-Active". Just my opinion. Same goes with T-Stats and Radiator caps.

My last one gave me a real run. It would work fine, until it got "hot" (even with a full tank -- something about 120deg Summers), then the fuel pressure would drop and all I could do was "idle", if I was lucky. Let it cool down (an hour or more), and I could drive for another 30 or so minutes. Initially, I thought it was one of the sensors on the tranny. Worked fine, after changing the sensor (for an hour), then I was on the side of the highway, miles from any service .......
 
#11 ·
I can understand the "If it ain't broke don't fix it", however, If I'm going on a trip and have that many miles on a known part that is prone to failure after so many miles/100k+ (and not easy to replace "on the road"), I'd seriously consider being "Pro-Active", than "Re-Active". Just my opinion. Same goes with T-Stats and Radiator caps.
A "known part that is prone to failure..." How do you figure? Because the fuel pumps in other cars from other manufacturers fail (or even pumps in older Chryslers for that matter)? Not a good enough reason for me, and if anything, the fuel pump on these minivans is not prone to failure.

Personally I'd have absolutely no problem with heading out on a cross country trip in either of our 140,000+ mile minivans without so much as giving the fuel pumps a second thought.
 
#12 ·
+1 on Shipo's comments.

Some fuel pumps croak early in their life, and some will croak much later. Everything has a finite life. The average fuel pump replacement nowadays is ~$300 or more unless you DIY.

As long as your vehicle is running well, I would not be overly concerned about it. If your vehicle was one that is known for FP issues at a certain juncture, that might cause one to think more proactively.

I will conclude by saying that asking the forum for feedback on any topic is what it exists for, so my comments are not meant to infer otherwise.

Don
 
#13 ·
I was also thinking about replacing my fuel pump considering I know they like to fail anytime after 100k but... when I thought about the extreme aggravation of having to empty the gas tank and totally take it out from under the van just to get the pump unit out... I figured I'd just wait until it actually fails... and then pay someone ELSE to do it.

Esp. considering I don't have a hydraulic lift installed in my garage...
 
#15 ·
if it ain't broke, don't fix it..
unless you have a fuel contamination issue, there's no reason for a modern (pulsating submersible) pump to fail before 160Kmi (unless you idle the van for hours on end or run down your tank to below 1/8 all the time..or run it completely dry several times)

Oh, and if you are going to fix it, make sure to replace the inline fuel filter while you're at it.. :)
 
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