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Engine 3.8 removal or how to swap 3.8 to 3.3

46K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  5.0pigboy 
#1 ·
Hi

As my engine died, I need to repleace it.
Do you have any suggestions how to do it?
I've read FSM, but I would like to learn more from you. Maybe some one did this on forum - photos are welcome.

Please advise could it be done without special tools at my home?
 
#2 ·
It can be done, just keep in mind you will need a lift. It's easier to drop it out the bottom (the way it was factory installed), however, it will come out the top. There are threads showing swapping of trannys, similar task, just lots heavier. Do a SEARCH.
 
#3 ·
In addition to needing the engine hoist to lift it out, you will also need to get a PCM made for the 3.3 engine. Unless a 3.8 is hard to find, I would get that because the 3.3 will be lacking torque for the AWD drivetrain if you really need to speed up.
 
#4 ·
3.8 is very rare on the second hand market :blink:.
I don't need tons of torque and horse power - it's family VAN for me, wife and kids.

I heard from couple guys in Poland that 3.8 PCM will work just fine with 3.3 engine.
 
#10 ·
I'm thinking to get it out from the bottom (engine with tranny down, body up)
 
#6 ·
they made some grand caravan sport with the 3.3L and AWD
if you swap the engine for a 3.3 you will also need the transfer gears in the transmission they are not the same for 3.3 and 3.8
swapping the computer should be a 5 minute job, as far as I know they used the same harness pinout
 
#9 ·
I don't think it will be worth it. I have the 3.3 ratio on my 3.8 and it's not really noticeable. The 2.7 gears may be nice, but the little change between 3.3 and 3.8 will be insignificant.
 
#12 ·
maybe better will be to disassemble tranny first (bottom) and then with huge clearance engine from the top?
It will weight much less, and easier to operate.

Did you pull it by yourself?
 
#13 ·
Yes, by myself. The difficulty is separating the engine from the transaxle. You have to push the engine to the passenger side, but then the crank pulley hits the frame. It is possible, just a bit tricky. Maybe pulling the crank pulley first is the way to go. If you have enough vertical clearance, you can drop the cradle, then use your hoist to raise the vehicle enough to yank the cradle out. An adventure you can tell your children about (if they're old enough to help you)!
 
#14 ·
Could you estimate how high I must rise fron of the car to pull it out from the bottom?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I will have "new" engine tomorrow. I've plan to replace it on Thursday - I hope. (only 4 mounts to assembly engine, other stuff can be done later)
 
#19 ·
MUCH easier to drop the whole front subassembly; scoop the engine and trans out; while the engine is in rebuild, rebuild the front end, brakes, lines...clean everything up, hit the frame with some epoxy...and while the front end is empty, check your shock towers. It is almost child's play to rebuild or replace the towers while everything else is out...I may do this to MY T&C; we just finished a friends.

By the way; on a 3.8 you can shave the block and the heads a bit, and a port and polish of both the heads and air horn REALLY wake up the engine; also, change out the 19 pound injectors for 23 pounders...you can even do that now; the change is well within the computer's capabilities...our engines were designed to run on gasoline, not the E-10 mix that virtually all of us get anymore. It doesn't do a lot for performance (seat-of the pants feels better, but the power increase is negligible). What it does do, though, is reduce the amount of throttle that you need to get to the same speed; on my 2000, I found a 2.5 mile per gallon increase.

The rebuild kicked his Voyager's 3.8 up to 262 hp on the dyno, and kicked up the torque even more, but he can't use regular anymore, with 11:1 compression.
 
#26 ·
MUCH easier to drop the whole front subassembly; scoop the engine and trans out; while the engine is in rebuild, rebuild the front end, brakes, lines...clean everything up, hit the frame with some epoxy...and while the front end is empty, check your shock towers. It is almost child's play to rebuild or replace the towers while everything else is out...I may do this to MY T&C; we just finished a friends.

By the way; on a 3.8 you can shave the block and the heads a bit, and a port and polish of both the heads and air horn REALLY wake up the engine; also, change out the 19 pound injectors for 23 pounders...you can even do that now; the change is well within the computer's capabilities...our engines were designed to run on gasoline, not the E-10 mix that virtually all of us get anymore. It doesn't do a lot for performance (seat-of the pants feels better, but the power increase is negligible). What it does do, though, is reduce the amount of throttle that you need to get to the same speed; on my 2000, I found a 2.5 mile per gallon increase.

The rebuild kicked his Voyager's 3.8 up to 262 hp on the dyno, and kicked up the torque even more, but he can't use regular anymore, with 11:1 compression.
Hmmmm...I wonder if this meant the vehicle had to use 89 octane (midgrade) or 92-93 octane (Premum)
 
#20 ·
Finally engine and trans was pulled out, and new engine with old trans came back on it's place in.
We pulled it out in 12h together with my friends, without garage, engine came out from bottom quite easy - but time consuming -especially all wireing and accessories.
next 6h to put it back without accessories :(.
 
#22 ·
I'm almost done with the swap.
Yesterday I've cranked and IT'S ALIVE :ThumbsUp:.

I've need more time to complete this job, but for now I'm so happy :).
 
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#23 ·
That is good to hear. You will have to let us know how the 3.3 does with power in the AWD drivetrain. Maybe it will even get a bit better fuel economy?
 
#24 ·
Today I've made my first test drive DGC 3.3 AWD :), it accelerate different - but maybe I must use to it :).

I let you know the results,
 
#25 ·
3.3 AWD can drive well at the city, I didn't test it at WOT, I don't need it.
 
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