Interchangable Parts from My Chrysler Sebring LX? [Archive] - The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums

: Interchangable Parts from My Chrysler Sebring LX?



aKids2003_DGC
01-14-2010, 02:15 AM
I posted a while ago that I was recently Given a 2001 Chrysler sebring LX, It has a rod knock and its gonna be a second Project for 2009. If I change my mind and want to junk it, it has a the 2.7L engine in it, with a A-606 42LE transmission in it.. Will that transmission fit my caravan?..My Gram has a 2001 Chrysler 300M and if anything Ill save the transmision for her car, she only has 41,000 miles on her 300m but you never know..

andyg
01-14-2010, 07:31 AM
from what I read, the 42le is turned 90* to make it front drive with a traditional rwd engine layout. I don't think the trans would be much use to you unless you wanted to make your engine longitudinally mounted for some reason in the future. I would get a used 2.7 engine for cheap and replace it. I know they have sludging issues, but it is not too hard to take the new engine apart and clean it up.

Hokiefyd
01-14-2010, 07:37 AM
I don't think it has a 42LE transmission. In Chrysler nomenclature, L = Longitudinal (as in north-south, or typical RWD fashion), and T = Transverse (as in sideways, like our vans are).

4 = number of speeds
2 = relative strength of transmission (1 = lowest, up through 6 and 8 sometimes)
L = longitudinal
E = electronic controlled

Our vans use a 41TE, or a relatively weak 4-speed transverse electronic unit. My Dakota has a 44LE, a modestly strong 4-speed longitudinal electronic unit.

andyg
01-14-2010, 07:41 AM
I don't think it has a 42LE transmission. In Chrysler nomenclature, L = Longitudinal (as in north-south, or typical RWD fashion), and T = Transverse (as in sideways, like our vans are).

4 = number of speeds
2 = relative strength of transmission (1 = lowest, up through 6 and 8 sometimes)
L = longitudinal
E = electronic controlled

Our vans use a 41TE, or a relatively weak 4-speed transverse electronic unit. My Dakota has a 44LE, a modestly strong 4-speed longitudinal electronic unit.

True. If it does happen to be a 42te or 41, you could use it in the van. It will make acceleration better due to transfer and drive ratio changes for the smaller engine as well. Depends on if you like gas mileage or go power.

ratsttam
01-14-2010, 07:50 AM
I don't think it has a 42LE transmission. In Chrysler nomenclature, L = Longitudinal (as in north-south, or typical RWD fashion), and T = Transverse (as in sideways, like our vans are).

4 = number of speeds
2 = relative strength of transmission (1 = lowest, up through 6 and 8 sometimes)
L = longitudinal
E = electronic controlled

Our vans use a 41TE, or a relatively weak 4-speed transverse electronic unit. My Dakota has a 44LE, a modestly strong 4-speed longitudinal electronic unit.
Lets not forget the 41AE for those of us blessed with AWD ;)

Hokiefyd
01-14-2010, 08:32 AM
I posted a while ago that I was recently Given a 2001 Chrysler sebring LX, It has a rod knock and its gonna be a second Project for 2009. If I change my mind and want to junk it, it has a the 2.7L engine in it, with a A-606 42LE transmission in it.. Will that transmission fit my caravan?..My Gram has a 2001 Chrysler 300M and if anything Ill save the transmision for her car, she only has 41,000 miles on her 300m but you never know..

Reading this closer, I'm not sure it'll work in the 300M either. The 300M's engine does sit longitudinally, but it's still FWD. The Sebring, as far as I recall, uses a standard transverse layout. In other words, I don't think that Sebring's transmission would be any good for anything other than a Sebring. I'm sure it wouldn't even directly bolt into one of our vans; the mounting points are likely different, etc.

My question is more about the engine; is the rod knock a sure thing? How bad is it? What has been done to try to remedy it (if anything)?

sideburns2009
01-14-2010, 12:36 PM
The transmissions you mentioned...the 42LE, is a 41TE with a different diff and output. It was used in the LH platform. You know, the crazy setup on the LHS, Concorde,Intrepid,300M, etc. with the engine longitudinal yet it's still FWD. Though it was also used with the 2.7 in the intrepids(longitudinal mount) it wasn't used in the sebrings. The sebring has the 41TE with both the 2.4 and the 2.7 engines. So that transmission would fit in your van, if the mounts are the same...which they probably are, if anything the internals would. :thumb: As for anything else, scrap it. Not much you can use for it for your van or the 300m save for maybe an alternator or something if it fits. The 2.7 is based on the 3.5 which is based on the 3.3.:) The 2.7 however is known for sludge issue's which is probably what caused the rod knock, from lack of oil circulation. It's probably toast. If you took a valve cover off, it'd more than likely be coated in peanut butter, depending on the mileage.

andyg
01-14-2010, 01:26 PM
Myself, I would pull the oil pan, replace the rod bearings and clean out the sludge by hand then run many oil flushes through the engine. Unless it was a headgasket or something that failed.

sideburns2009
01-14-2010, 01:36 PM
Myself, I would pull the oil pan, replace the rod bearings and clean out the sludge by hand then run many oil flushes through the engine. Unless it was a headgasket or something that failed.

Well, with the early 2.7's, like the one in this sebring, that would only be a band-aid. The oil passages were to narrow and it caused slow circulation, cooking the oil, there was also PCV system issues and timing chain issues. There were just a lot of design flaws in the head. The bottom end is tough, it's the same as the 3.5, the heads are different though...their attempt at DOHC didn't turn out so well. They supposedly fixed it, though I've read a few complaints of 2.7 failures in the 300's as well (LX platform)

Consultant
01-14-2010, 02:05 PM
Well, with the early 2.7's, like the one in this sebring, that would only be a band-aid. The oil passages were to narrow and it caused slow circulation, cooking the oil, there was also PCV system issues and timing chain issues. There were just a lot of design flaws in the head. The bottom end is tough, it's the same as the 3.5, the heads are different though...their attempt at DOHC didn't turn out so well. They supposedly fixed it, though I've read a few complaints of 2.7 failures in the 300's as well (LX platform)

I think the use of synthetic oil and frequent oil changes will significantly aid in engine life with the 2.7. One of the issues is the water pump is internal and when it leaks, it gums up the oil.

Hokiefyd
01-14-2010, 02:07 PM
You guys are right; I am wrong. The traditional RWD transmissions are "R" instead of "L". My truck has a 44RE, not a 44LE.

aKids2003_DGC
01-14-2010, 03:04 PM
Reading this closer, I'm not sure it'll work in the 300M either. The 300M's engine does sit longitudinally, but it's still FWD. The Sebring, as far as I recall, uses a standard transverse layout. In other words, I don't think that Sebring's transmission would be any good for anything other than a Sebring. I'm sure it wouldn't even directly bolt into one of our vans; the mounting points are likely different, etc.

My question is more about the engine; is the rod knock a sure thing? How bad is it? What has been done to try to remedy it (if anything)?

Good question jason. im positive its a rod knock, But with the questions and all, I made a youtube video of it running... Check it out guys.. and dont worry TCwagner , there's no Cussin!, i just have about 5 worthers original candys in my mouth while narrating this clip lol...btw i sound like a serious news reporter, why? i really dont know

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjsNzsuFb3o&layer_token=77cbb4dae3fb0f4b

sideburns2009
01-14-2010, 03:19 PM
Well new rod bearings would probably fix the noise, but I don't know for how long. Given these engines are known for early failure (usually a rod through the block) due to oil starvation, who knows how long it would be before the new bearings were starved. I guess for a free car, it'd be worth a try. Maybe remove a valve cover and see if there is any sludge. The top end usually sludges pretty good when it does.

Oh and by the way, you kind of sound like emeril lagasse to me. :nut:

ratsttam
01-14-2010, 03:25 PM
I don't think that is rod knock...sounds like a lifter knocking. Every v6 I've heard with rod knock, was a slower clunk (about 1/2 the pace of that). That is the same pace as the lifters ticking on my Strat 2.5. The lifters are 2x the speed of the rod (intake and exhaust valves). It's probably oil starved. Mine gets louder as my oil burns off, when I can hear it inside, it's time to add a bit more. I don't think the engine is toast just yet! A little TLC and a series of oil flushes and low paraffin oil should do the trick in this case.
This link from the DodgeForum explains the problem with the engine, and some solutions that others with the same engine have done.http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-stratus/32336-facts-on-the-sludge-monster.html

andyg
01-14-2010, 03:31 PM
Good question jason. im positive its a rod knock, But with the questions and all, I made a youtube video of it running... Check it out guys.. and dont worry TCwagner , there's no Cussin!, i just have about 5 worthers original candys in my mouth while narrating this clip lol...btw i sound like a serious news reporter, why? i really dont know

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjsNzsuFb3o&layer_token=77cbb4dae3fb0f4b

That is a lovely sounding knock. I bet if you cleaned it out and replaced the bearings, maybe ran some mildly thicker than recommended oil, it would last awhile. The key would be if the crank was not badly scored.

I would put new bearings in, check the cleanance with some cheapo plastigauge and run a 50/50 mix of keroses or diesel and motor oil. Do that change a few times, with new filters every time, and it should considerably clean it out. The oil changes after that should then be done every 200 miles for 2-3 changes.

All of this depends on if you want to spend maybe $200 worth of bearings and lots of oil into the thing.

sideburns2009
01-14-2010, 03:34 PM
Thicker oil in a 2.7 is a no go. The oil passages are too small as it is. Thinner oil would probably be better. Like ratsttam said it might not be a rod knock. It is pretty fast for it to be idling. The top end does rotate twice as many times as the bottom end hence the cam sprokets being small and the crank sproket being larger. Like a bike gear.

andyg
01-14-2010, 03:40 PM
The speed of it may be fast due to the cold start having a high idle for the first little bit of engine running. My van will get the engine up to 2000 sometimes and hold it around 1300 when cold.

Although much could be found out by dropping the pan. If it is as easy to do as these vans are, 30 mins could tell a whole lot about the engine.

aKids2003_DGC
01-14-2010, 04:03 PM
The speed of it may be fast due to the cold start having a high idle for the first little bit of engine running. My van will get the engine up to 2000 sometimes and hold it around 1300 when cold.

Although much could be found out by dropping the pan. If it is as easy to do as these vans are, 30 mins could tell a whole lot about the engine.



Im going outside to drop the Oil pan now.. Stay tuned Ill be back later with a video... And By the way Sideburns2009, Who is emeril lagasse???.. I dont watch tv really, and I watch movies and Tv shows on my Xbox 360 thru netflix. Is he a movie star or on a new tv show?

aKids2003_DGC
01-14-2010, 05:02 PM
Im going outside to drop the Oil pan now.. Stay tuned Ill be back later with a video... And By the way Sideburns2009, Who is emeril lagasse???.. I dont watch tv really, and I watch movies and Tv shows on my Xbox 360 thru netflix. Is he a movie star or on a new tv show?



guys, sorry But its getting too dark out and I cant document anything. Plus I have to run across town to get my lights and stuff, Ill set this up for the morning :)

sideburns2009
01-14-2010, 06:14 PM
Im going outside to drop the Oil pan now.. Stay tuned Ill be back later with a video... And By the way Sideburns2009, Who is emeril lagasse???.. I dont watch tv really, and I watch movies and Tv shows on my Xbox 360 thru netflix. Is he a movie star or on a new tv show?

He's the guy on that cooking show on Food Network or whatever. Emeril Live or something...the guy that says: BAM!

Christ
01-16-2010, 01:45 AM
Thicker oil in a 2.7 is a no go. The oil passages are too small as it is. Thinner oil would probably be better. Like ratsttam said it might not be a rod knock. It is pretty fast for it to be idling. The top end does rotate twice as many times as the bottom end hence the cam sprokets being small and the crank sproket being larger. Like a bike gear.

No?

The crank goes 2x as fast as the cam... not sure where you got that, but unless Chrysler did some magic with this engine, it's just like every other engine out there, and the bottom spins faster than the top...

BTW - the Crank drive gears are smaller, not larger. The crank gear is always 1/2 the teeth of the cam driven gear(s), even on multi-cam engines.

Remember, you replace a timing belt and spin the crank 720* to get a full rev of the cam to check your belt tension and sprocket alignment... not the other way around.

Christ
01-16-2010, 01:48 AM
OP - If you wanna know what it is, don't listen to how fast it's going, listen to where it's coming from. Bottom end is likely rods, top end is likely valve lash/rocker adjustment.

Put a plastic cup against the head cover and put your ear to it while the engine is running, listen in a few places. DO the same on the oil pan, if you can get clearance under the engine to do it.

Another way to do it is pull the oil dipstick while the engine is running and put your head next to the hole... then pull the oil cap and put your head near there as well... if it's louder on one end, that's usually where it is. (Unless it's on the wrong head of the V6, then you can't really listen to it too well.)

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 04:02 AM
OP - If you wanna know what it is, don't listen to how fast it's going, listen to where it's coming from. Bottom end is likely rods, top end is likely valve lash/rocker adjustment.

Put a plastic cup against the head cover and put your ear to it while the engine is running, listen in a few places. DO the same on the oil pan, if you can get clearance under the engine to do it.

Another way to do it is pull the oil dipstick while the engine is running and put your head next to the hole... then pull the oil cap and put your head near there as well... if it's louder on one end, that's usually where it is. (Unless it's on the wrong head of the V6, then you can't really listen to it too well.)

Its a rod knock, trust me on that one.. went to my friends service station today and he asked me about the sebring again, he said that it had a rod knock.. i got this car from my friends station, it belonged to a woman that just left it there for a service like 8 months ago, and i happen to be there getting gas at just the right time to have her give it to me, just by asking.. i went to the womans house and she told me soo much about the car...shes the original owner, its never been smoked in, when she bought it new her son took it ( at 16 ) and wrapped it around a pole ( it was 2 weeks old)..she told me about driving it to florada and upstate NY.. and one day she was just driving and it started rod knocking and she shut it down immediately

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 04:11 AM
to tell you guys truthfully....Im really scared of taking the oil pan down and finding that i cant save the engine because the crank is soo badly scored.. I really am beginning to get attached to the car and I realy like it very much.. but putting a engine into it just isnt in the cards for me right now.. Im on limited funds, and im awaiting a Major surgury on my back and my neck with a 1 year recovery after....it wiill be too much for me, and ill have to let it go... Dont get me wrong, I love my 03" grand caravan, But its also nice to be able to have a car again, my 88' trans am gta is a project car, im almost done with that, but thats not a daily driver like the sebring could be..im just hoping that i can save this engine the way i want to..

Christ
01-16-2010, 08:05 AM
to tell you guys truthfully....Im really scared of taking the oil pan down and finding that i cant save the engine because the crank is soo badly scored.. I really am beginning to get attached to the car and I realy like it very much.. but putting a engine into it just isnt in the cards for me right now.. Im on limited funds, and im awaiting a Major surgury on my back and my neck with a 1 year recovery after....it wiill be too much for me, and ill have to let it go... Dont get me wrong, I love my 03" grand caravan, But its also nice to be able to have a car again, my 88' trans am gta is a project car, im almost done with that, but thats not a daily driver like the sebring could be..im just hoping that i can save this engine the way i want to..

Never gonna know if the cranks' ****ed unless you check it. :ThumbsUp:

Just rub a penny across that journal, if it doesn't leave copper trace, you can usually get away with just using a new bearing. You could also use your thumbnail... if you can feel abrasion, it needs to be polished.. I can't really describe what you should feel, because it's something you really have to experience. As long as it hasn't been run w/ the rod knocking like that, there's a good chance that you can just replace the bearing and possibly that rod, and it'll be OK.

The first engine I blew up in my Civic, one of the rod bolts let loose at about 6200RPM, crank pulled free, and slapped the rod on the way back around, putting the bottom of the rod through the block.

It tapped for about 2 weeks before that, but I never found the time to pull the pan and diagnose it.. it was as simple as tightening two nuts, and could have saved that engine... and that happens a surprisingly large number of times, where it's something simple and people would rather get rid of the car than check the problem and fix it. I profit from them.

sideburns2009
01-16-2010, 12:18 PM
No?

The crank goes 2x as fast as the cam... not sure where you got that, but unless Chrysler did some magic with this engine, it's just like every other engine out there, and the bottom spins faster than the top...

BTW - the Crank drive gears are smaller, not larger. The crank gear is always 1/2 the teeth of the cam driven gear(s), even on multi-cam engines.

Remember, you replace a timing belt and spin the crank 720* to get a full rev of the cam to check your belt tension and sprocket alignment... not the other way around.

Excuse me, I got it backwards. Mistakes happen? I'm not perfect?

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 12:42 PM
Excuse me, I got it backwards. Mistakes happen? I'm not perfect?



Christ, Sideburns2009 . Whoever got it backwards, whoever got it wrong, I just have one things to say...YOU BOTH KNOW MORE THEN ME ABOUT THIS DEPARTMENT!! LOL.. reading posts about engine spec's etc is scary to me...That 2.7L in my sebring is scary to me, I think if I ever took it apart id never get it back together again.. Its somthing about the DOHC that scars me, I had a 94 grand prix GTP with the 3.4L DOHC and I Completely lost it when trying to do the head gaskets.. I had to pay someone to finish the job

andyg
01-16-2010, 01:00 PM
Yep gotta pull the pan. You can check at dealers to see if they have factory type undersize bearings if need be. Not the kind where you get the crank ground down to a specific value. Factories sometimes use bearings that have like .001" difference in them at the factories because the mass producing machine equipment is not always 100% accurate. If the crank is slightly worn and you don't want to remove it to get it ground, that may be the way to go as long as the crank is not scored.

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 01:15 PM
Yep gotta pull the pan. You can check at dealers to see if they have factory type undersize bearings if need be. Not the kind where you get the crank ground down to a specific value. Factories sometimes use bearings that have like .001" difference in them at the factories because the mass producing machine equipment is not always 100% accurate. If the crank is slightly worn and you don't want to remove it to get it ground, that may be the way to go as long as the crank is not scored.


I dont know.. all I do know is its 1:14pm and I still havent Got outside to play around with the car yet.. Goinggggggg, NOW

andyg
01-16-2010, 01:31 PM
I dont know.. all I do know is its 1:14pm and I still havent Got outside to play around with the car yet.. Goinggggggg, NOW

If you're still online... The easiest way to tell which one is bad without taking them all apart is to try and wiggle the rods on the crank. They shouldn't move any noticeable amount but one may. If this is inconclusive then I guess you'll have to do them all.

Its only 12:30 by me so I guess I still have time before I should be doing anything haha.

sideburns2009
01-16-2010, 01:33 PM
Christ, Sideburns2009 . Whoever got it backwards, whoever got it wrong, I just have one things to say...YOU BOTH KNOW MORE THEN ME ABOUT THIS DEPARTMENT!! LOL.. reading posts about engine spec's etc is scary to me...That 2.7L in my sebring is scary to me, I think if I ever took it apart id never get it back together again.. Its somthing about the DOHC that scars me, I had a 94 grand prix GTP with the 3.4L DOHC and I Completely lost it when trying to do the head gaskets.. I had to pay someone to finish the job

It's not so hard. The only engines I've ever rebuilt were DOHC, never rebuilt a cam-in-block as of yet. The Nissan VQ30DE wasn't too hard (3.0 DOHC V6, maxima engine). That's a Japanese DOHC engine at that. You could probably do it. The 3.4 in the GTP was a messy engine in the first place. Of course the intake on the 2.7 is weird looking enough to scare you. :lol:

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 03:12 PM
It's not so hard. The only engines I've ever rebuilt were DOHC, never rebuilt a cam-in-block as of yet. The Nissan VQ30DE wasn't too hard (3.0 DOHC V6, maxima engine). That's a Japanese DOHC engine at that. You could probably do it. The 3.4 in the GTP was a messy engine in the first place. Of course the intake on the 2.7 is weird looking enough to scare you. :lol:




messy engine is right.. do you know that to change the alternator you have to take a axel out?? $300 repair..

Christ
01-16-2010, 08:47 PM
If you're still online... The easiest way to tell which one is bad without taking them all apart is to try and wiggle the rods on the crank. They shouldn't move any noticeable amount but one may. If this is inconclusive then I guess you'll have to do them all.

Its only 12:30 by me so I guess I still have time before I should be doing anything haha.

I use a breaker bar handle with a socket on the crank, usually, and just watch/listen while I quickly wobble it back and forth. Works good for me. Suggestion.

sideburns2009
01-16-2010, 08:52 PM
messy engine is right.. do you know that to change the alternator you have to take a axel out?? $300 repair..

That's probably often being an AC Delco alternator. :lol:

aKids2003_DGC
01-16-2010, 11:50 PM
That's probably often being an AC Delco alternator. :lol:



HOW DID YOU GUESS!? lol

01GCSE
01-17-2010, 02:08 AM
Its somthing about the DOHC that scars me, I had a 94 grand prix GTP with the 3.4L DOHC and I Completely lost it when trying to do the head gaskets.. I had to pay someone to finish the job
Man that's one of the ugliest jobs on the planet, and I used to work on Jag's.
3 timing chains, dummy cam shaft, no room. I had to do head gaskets on a 3.4 because of an oil leak at the plug where there used to bbe a distributor many years ago. on a 3.1 it's a 20 minute job, but the 3.4 heads won't let you pull the damn plug. No wonder GM is in the boat it's in.

aKids2003_DGC
01-17-2010, 02:57 AM
Man that's one of the ugliest jobs on the planet, and I used to work on Jag's.
3 timing chains, dummy cam shaft, no room. I had to do head gaskets on a 3.4 because of an oil leak at the plug where there used to bbe a distributor many years ago. on a 3.1 it's a 20 minute job, but the 3.4 heads won't let you pull the damn plug. No wonder GM is in the boat it's in.



You couldnt of said it any better... God you just brought back soo many memories for me... My head gaskets went, But that distributor plug was leaking too.. The dealer was GIVING AWAY the O-rings at the time, and the job just to replace that stupid O-ring was LABOR INTENSIVEEEE..thats one car I will never ever forget..I then after Bought a 2001 Grand prix Gt fearing I will have the same nightmare, But I didnt, that 3800 was a great motor, I didnt nothing to that car but rutine maintnace since I bought it..But that 94' GTP...that car was my favorite, But a NIGHTMARE..

You know, You couldnt even JUST PULL OFF THE PLENUM, you had to tare it down for one STUPID .20 cent O-Ring..thats UNREAL

aKids2003_DGC
01-17-2010, 03:04 AM
last night, was Different, Instead of working on my Firebird, I decided to Play with the sebring..And I swear, If I had to Drive across town ONE MORE TIME for something stupid that I forgot I was just going to go upstairs and play video games all day! lol...Anyways, I started taking the Oil pan off, things were going easy, and quickly, and usually when that happens I know that the Big Problem is not to far away, I dont think this is a big prob, just a Inconvienience because I was like a child waiting to open his christmas gifts tonight ( this morning ) when that oil pan dropped and...NO GO...I made a video..here it goes.

Once again, THERE IS NO CUSSIN' -


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZDGYbMSJyU

01GCSE
01-17-2010, 03:14 AM
Maybe if you cut the 4 bolts you can get at, you could pry the crossover pipe out of the way enough to get the pan off?

aKids2003_DGC
01-17-2010, 03:31 AM
Maybe if you cut the 4 bolts you can get at, you could pry the crossover pipe out of the way enough to get the pan off?



I dont know, I have No Idea what to do.. I want to se the replys I get, if I get nothing, Ill try something..

andyg
01-17-2010, 11:39 AM
I dont know, I have No Idea what to do.. I want to se the replys I get, if I get nothing, Ill try something..

The exhaust pipe will either move enough once you unbolt it from the manifold OR the exhaust going to the back of the car will unbolt from the cat converter. That's why "cat backs" are so easy to install on cars because they all just bolt on.

I would clean the bolts off with a wire wheel and spray them with some PB blaster or something. For some reason, exhaust bolts always look terrible, but they usually seem to come off with persistence. Or you can just cut them and wait until you have it diagnosed and maybe fixed before you bother fixing the exhaust.

The oil pan won't move forward because it is probably hitting one of the crank throws or the counterbalance weights.

Christ
01-17-2010, 10:40 PM
Agree with Andy - the pipe will just drop out of the way slightly once you've removed the header bolts. Also, if you still don't quite have enough clearance, you could get a little more after the exhaust is hanging by lifting the engine slightly.

Also, turn the engine over so that all the cylinders are at the half-way mark in their rotation, and that might make it OK to move the pan out, because then the counterweights and throws will be level with the oil pan gasket surface.

aKids2003_DGC
01-18-2010, 12:48 AM
The exhaust pipe will either move enough once you unbolt it from the manifold OR the exhaust going to the back of the car will unbolt from the cat converter. That's why "cat backs" are so easy to install on cars because they all just bolt on.

I would clean the bolts off with a wire wheel and spray them with some PB blaster or something. For some reason, exhaust bolts always look terrible, but they usually seem to come off with persistence. Or you can just cut them and wait until you have it diagnosed and maybe fixed before you bother fixing the exhaust.

The oil pan won't move forward because it is probably hitting one of the crank throws or the counterbalance weights.

I dont see any bolts to that cat back..the cat is located where the engine is, its not under the car.. Its raining now so i wont be able to look at it till tomorrow

andyg
01-18-2010, 02:35 PM
I dont see any bolts to that cat back..the cat is located where the engine is, its not under the car.. Its raining now so i wont be able to look at it till tomorrow

You know, after I wrote that I remembered that my van doesn't have the catback bolted either. I bet you'll gain enough clearance to drop the pan by just removing the exhaust from the manifolds and letting it drop a few inches. Exhaust systems have a good amount of movement in their mounts.

Christ
01-18-2010, 08:52 PM
You'll be able to move the exhaust down until it contacts the cross member. Remember, the hangers are rubber.

And you'll probably still need to turn the engine by hand to get enough clearance with the counterweights and rod throws.

aKids2003_DGC
01-20-2010, 01:26 PM
You'll be able to move the exhaust down until it contacts the cross member. Remember, the hangers are rubber.

And you'll probably still need to turn the engine by hand to get enough clearance with the counterweights and rod throws.

If I got to turn the engine should I take the Spark plugs out?..

sideburns2009
01-20-2010, 01:48 PM
If I got to turn the engine should I take the Spark plugs out?..

It would be a little easier to turn seeing as how there would be no compression in the cylinders but the force of 24 valve springs is going to be the jerk you feel every rotation as the lobes push against them to open the valves. As far as I can remember, removing the plugs didn't make it easy enough to be worth the trouble.

01GCSE
01-20-2010, 01:50 PM
Not required, it will turn with the plugs in

andyg
01-20-2010, 03:22 PM
I guess taking the plugs wouldn't matter too much on a 2.7 but on the 6.5L in my GTO it makes a huge difference, and mine is even really low compression.

The valve springs aren't too much of a problem as when one is action against you on the cam, there is another one acting to help you. The friction is what you're overcoming when you have the plugs out.

Hokiefyd
01-20-2010, 04:26 PM
Yeah, taking the plugs out should remove almost all load on the engine when trying to turn it over. Those pistons really DO seal well against the cylinder walls (okay, the piston rings technically), and that compression adds a lot of resistance when attempting to crank an engine.

yakdude01
01-20-2010, 07:04 PM
I'll get the transmission info done first. It's the 41TE.

On the sludging, it only affected the 2.7L until 2002, 2003 and up engines had the issue corrected. Most of the problems were in the Intrepid/Concorde line from 1998 to 2001.

My 2001 Sebring Convertible Limited, which I bought new, now has 72k mi. I have been using full synthetic since May 2005, and 25k mi.

With only 41k mi on it, it's probably worth more in parts unless you can do the engine swap yourself. As for putting the engine in a Caravan? I doubt you'd get it to work. Just based on dimensions, etc.

Let me know if you have any other Sebring questions... ;)

sideburns2009
01-20-2010, 10:57 PM
I'll get the transmission info done first. It's the 41TE.

On the sludging, it only affected the 2.7L until 2002, 2003 and up engines had the issue corrected. Most of the problems were in the Intrepid/Concorde line from 1998 to 2001.

My 2001 Sebring Convertible Limited, which I bought new, now has 72k mi. I have been using full synthetic since May 2005, and 25k mi.

With only 41k mi on it, it's probably worth more in parts unless you can do the engine swap yourself. As for putting the engine in a Caravan? I doubt you'd get it to work. Just based on dimensions, etc.

Let me know if you have any other Sebring questions... ;)
I know they said they fixed it but I highly doubt they resolved all of the issues that caused sludge. Take a look:
2005 300:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chrysler/300/2005/engine/engine_failure.shtml
2006 300:
Take a look at complaint #3 on this page:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chrysler/300/2006/engine/engine_failure_due_to_oil_sludge.shtml Its got pics. yikes!
and here: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chrysler/300/2006/engine/index.shtml
Dodge Charger, 2007:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Charger/2007/engine/engine_oil_light_came_on_engine_siezed.shtml
Dodge Magnum, 2008:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Magnum/2008/engine/engine_seized.shtml
Magnum, 2006:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Magnum/2006/engine/engine_failure.shtml
2003 Stratus: 6 counts
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Stratus/2003/engine/oil_sludge_resulting_in_engine_failure.shtml
2006 stratus:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Stratus/2006/engine/engine_seizure_failure.shtml
Ok well I'm done, if you want anymore counts go to that site and browse around. To this day people are still having their 2.7 die from sludge.

aKids2003_DGC
01-21-2010, 12:40 AM
I'll get the transmission info done first. It's the 41TE.

On the sludging, it only affected the 2.7L until 2002, 2003 and up engines had the issue corrected. Most of the problems were in the Intrepid/Concorde line from 1998 to 2001.

My 2001 Sebring Convertible Limited, which I bought new, now has 72k mi. I have been using full synthetic since May 2005, and 25k mi.

With only 41k mi on it, it's probably worth more in parts unless you can do the engine swap yourself. As for putting the engine in a Caravan? I doubt you'd get it to work. Just based on dimensions, etc.

Let me know if you have any other Sebring questions... ;)

Hey,

yeah I do have alot of questions...For starters, that little computer thing in between the dash vents in the middle of the dash, is their a plug behind my cubby hole space so i can add it, along with the temp sensor for the front?.... My front bumper is cracked, would a dodge stratus front bumper fit on it, i think they look cooler then the sebring front bumper.. also where does the fog lamp switch go, I dont have fog lamps, but whatever bumper I get im getting the fog lamps for it..

I dont want to put the 2.7L in my caravan, I wanted to use the transmission from the sebring as a spare if i find that the engine is too far gone.. One problem ive been having is EVERY SINGLE SEBRING INTREPID AND CONCORDE WITH THE 2.7L ENGINE ARE ALL BLOWN AND ROD KNOCKING... cant find a good engine,, and mine is a 2001, ive never seen a 9 year old car with such a perfect interior...

Consultant
01-21-2010, 10:52 AM
I know they said they fixed it but I highly doubt they resolved all of the issues that caused sludge.

I agree. I have an '04 Concorde with a 2.7. I have been using synthetic oil since its first oil change and change it every 4,000 to 5,000 miles or so. I use Pennzoil Platinum now, because it's supposed to clean sludge.

I think that using synthetic oil will mostly likely allow me to avoid the sludge problem that so many people have.

I've also heard that because the water pump is internal that if it leaks, it can sludge up the oil. I may go through the hassle of changing mine this summer, just to be safe.

sideburns2009
01-21-2010, 02:44 PM
I agree. I have an '04 Concorde with a 2.7. I have been using synthetic oil since its first oil change and change it every 4,000 to 5,000 miles or so. I use Pennzoil Platinum now, because it's supposed to clean sludge.

I think that using synthetic oil will mostly likely allow me to avoid the sludge problem that so many people have.

I've also heard that because the water pump is internal that if it leaks, it can sludge up the oil. I may go through the hassle of changing mine this summer, just to be safe.

It probably will, the oil passages were to small in the heads from what I've read on the 2.7 which caused it to cook the oil..IE: peanut buttery sludge. Sythetic oil can hold up to a lot more heat and stress so in theory, it should help prevent it. As for the water pump, changing it is probably the best route. The 2.7 was a good idea, based on the 3.5, smaller and more efficient. It was an alternative to the 3.5, while still providing 190HP it was suppose to be more fuel efficient...well I'm sure it was but they didn't do a good job at designing it.

andyg
01-21-2010, 03:56 PM
Maybe if akids2003 gets his running smoothly, an oil cooler wouldn't be such a bad idea? Something small as its not a road race vehicle, but it could probably drastically reduce oil temps if the 2.7's cook the oil that badly. I never actually looked into what cause the sludge problems.

aKids2003_DGC
01-22-2010, 12:04 AM
Maybe if akids2003 gets his running smoothly, an oil cooler wouldn't be such a bad idea? Something small as its not a road race vehicle, but it could probably drastically reduce oil temps if the 2.7's cook the oil that badly. I never actually looked into what cause the sludge problems.



Thats a good Idea, Ive Ordered the Main bearings.. Im going to get to taking the oil pan down tomorrow.. I figured out a way

sideburns2009
01-22-2010, 12:15 AM
Thats a good Idea, Ive Ordered the Main bearings.. Im going to get to taking the oil pan down tomorrow.. I figured out a way

An oil cooler, the biggest oil filter you can find that fits it to help extend the oil capacity and synthetic 5w-30 would probably do it, that is if it's not full of sludge already...all the small passages that is. Take a valve cover off sometime and see what it looks like under there. That's where it sludges.

jazztrumpet216
01-22-2010, 07:34 AM
You can install the trip computer yourself. The plugs are all there, but you'll have to cut a few holes in the back of the trim piece to run them through to the computer. Here's a link to the webpage I used to install mine: http://home.att.net/~t.vago/howto/jr_cmtc.html

Best bet to find one is to either check out eBay or go junkyard crawling... there are plenty of Stratuses/Sebrings with dead 2.7's out there that have trip computers. You might even be able to grab the entire bezel and save yourself some cutting too, if you wish.

Consultant
01-22-2010, 09:46 AM
One thing that I noticed, at least on my Concorde is that the front catalytic converters come very close to the engine. I bet they really heat up the oil, especially when the car is first turned off. I wonder if some sort of heat shields could be retrofitted.

aKids2003_DGC
01-22-2010, 02:21 PM
You can install the trip computer yourself. The plugs are all there, but you'll have to cut a few holes in the back of the trim piece to run them through to the computer. Here's a link to the webpage I used to install mine: http://home.att.net/~t.vago/howto/jr_cmtc.html

Best bet to find one is to either check out eBay or go junkyard crawling... there are plenty of Stratuses/Sebrings with dead 2.7's out there that have trip computers. You might even be able to grab the entire bezel and save yourself some cutting too, if you wish.

I already found onein the yard, Im gonna ahev to Drill out the holes if i get it because if i take the whole bezel they will be like ( Ohhhhhh $$$$$)

aKids2003_DGC
01-22-2010, 02:24 PM
You can install the trip computer yourself. The plugs are all there, but you'll have to cut a few holes in the back of the trim piece to run them through to the computer. Here's a link to the webpage I used to install mine: http://home.att.net/~t.vago/howto/jr_cmtc.html

Best bet to find one is to either check out eBay or go junkyard crawling... there are plenty of Stratuses/Sebrings with dead 2.7's out there that have trip computers. You might even be able to grab the entire bezel and save yourself some cutting too, if you wish.


and there were ( Like you said ) Plenty of 2.7L in the bone yard... If this engine fix dont work, Im parting the car out... it has a mint interior and alot of good parts on the outside.. Just letting you know because you have the same car as I do, anyone else here thats has a Sebring like mine im just letting you know I might be parting this one out...we will see

Christ
01-22-2010, 06:56 PM
I already found onein the yard, Im gonna ahev to Drill out the holes if i get it because if i take the whole bezel they will be like ( Ohhhhhh $$$$$)

Take some tape and paper, and see if you can make a template of the OE holes and cut those out from your console with a dremel... you might be more satisfied w/ the results?

andyg
01-22-2010, 07:18 PM
Did you order the mains or the rod bearings? I would guess you need the rods. Unless I missed a post.

aKids2003_DGC
01-23-2010, 12:53 AM
Take some tape and paper, and see if you can make a template of the OE holes and cut those out from your console with a dremel... you might be more satisfied w/ the results?



Thats what Im going to do, But Im not going to do anything just yet till i find out what the deal is with this engine..However I did replace the radio with another chrysler radio :)

aKids2003_DGC
01-23-2010, 12:56 AM
Did you order the mains or the rod bearings? I would guess you need the rods. Unless I missed a post.



Yeah, I ordered the Rod Bearings. I didnt get the connecting rods tho.. Im going by what ive researched and what a few Reliable friends and some guy on youtube told me about these 2.7's.. and Im going to try it..And if it turns to be a EPIC FAIL..welll, alot of good parts are going to go to people who want them...i will be sad to take this car apart tho

andyg
01-23-2010, 02:52 AM
The rods will be fine unless the bearing spun or really beat the he.ll out of everything.

In that case, the rod will need to be resized or replaced. I doubt any of that happened as the engine wasn't seized and turned over fine.

Christ
01-23-2010, 10:05 PM
+1

Hope you can save it!

aKids2003_DGC
02-16-2010, 03:45 PM
Since the wrecker came for that parts firebird today I can Send the Sebring to my friends house and bring my firebird home.. So In another week or so Im going to start on the SEBRING!.. Hopfully I can have the sebring up and running with the firebird. Wish me luck I really want to save this engine :thumb:

sideburns2009
03-13-2010, 09:32 PM
So what's going on with the Sebring?

aKids2003_DGC
03-22-2010, 01:05 AM
So what's going on with the Sebring?



A whole lot of nothing, a few weeks ago it became my Ebay stores storage facility, the trunk back seats, fron seats are filled to the brim with boxes.. The sebring is going to have to wait a few weeks, I dont know if your following my facebook but I just got my surgery done on march 19th.. I have a giant sized gash in the front of my neck and i cant do anything big for a while.. Im going to complete the job in a few weeks i hope.. But as it stands now. All it is, is a mobile storage house in my driveway lol...Its funny, I didnt think it would go down like this, But I ran out of time..I got the firebird done, well, all the heavy stuff done before the surgery...which left my sebring hanging..

sideburns2009
03-22-2010, 01:17 AM
A whole lot of nothing, a few weeks ago it became my Ebay stores storage facility, the trunk back seats, fron seats are filled to the brim with boxes.. The sebring is going to have to wait a few weeks, I dont know if your following my facebook but I just got my surgery done on march 19th.. I have a giant sized gash in the front of my neck and i cant do anything big for a while.. Im going to complete the job in a few weeks i hope.. But as it stands now. All it is, is a mobile storage house in my driveway lol...Its funny, I didnt think it would go down like this, But I ran out of time..I got the firebird done, well, all the heavy stuff done before the surgery...which left my sebring hanging..

Ah. Yeah, I've seen your post's on facebook. I hope you heal pretty soon.

joedweber
05-13-2010, 03:14 PM
Take some tape and paper, and see if you can make a template of the OE holes and cut those out from your console with a dremel... you might be more satisfied w/ the results?

Hey guys, I am also throwing in a new trip computer in my LX. Where can I find a template of the OE holes for the console? Or should I just do it by eye?

Thanks!

KOG
05-13-2010, 05:20 PM
I'm pulling the 2.7 out of an 01 Convertible that I bought for $500 because of the oiling problem. Body and top are perfect, but I'm going to put either a 3.0, 3.3 or 2.4 back in it. Just getting the 2.7 out is one H@ll of a job and I have a shop better equipped than some dealers. The 2.7 comes out the bottom with transmission and I'm beginning to think that the suspension crossmember will have to be on the engine before reinstalling although I'm getting it out with that in place. Front crossmember, radiator and condensor have to come out as well. That is one tightly packed mess.